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Old 01-10-2008, 09:51 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Mr_X View Post
i dont see the point in introducing another standard into r/c. we want to keep as little as possible. your motor too powerful? run stock or adjust your esc if you can like mamba max or turn down your exponential curve. if you dont have an exponential curve you shouldnt be worrying about too fast of a motor you need a better radio first. and the best thing if all you can control the throttle with your finger to give you less wheel spin. its one part of being a good racer its not all about steering if about throttle control too.

if you want to break your car less then learn to drive maybe start with a slower motor if your not competitive in mod then race stock class, if you dont have stock class then deal with it as mentioned in the other thread we cant all be winners. i broke both my cars once all summer and no im not a top 3 amain driver but thats ok because im racing for fun and yes i do want to someday win the a main but i dont want to do it by complaining that the cars are too fast or the cars are too hard to drive and have the rules or classes changed to suit me. if you want to run a smaller motor then do it just dont try to make another class out of it. r/c cars are gonna become slot cars soon next thing you know we have assisted steering, ABS and traction control.
It doesn't mean introducing another class. You can gradually amend the rules. If there is a way to go faster and probably be cheaper as well, why not make improvements? I think you are missing the point.

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Originally Posted by Mr_X View Post
8th scale cars dont break as often mostly because they are mostly aluminum or stuff like arms are 10mm thats over twice the thickness of 10th scale cars and they are very wide.

the best real car rally class, group b, was canceled because the cars were too fast and light lets not have that in r/c.
You are partially right about Group B. A big part of the reason was that guys were getting killed because of it. I can't see that happening with RC.
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Old 01-11-2008, 01:36 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Mr_X View Post
i dont see the point in introducing another standard into r/c. we want to keep as little as possible. your motor too powerful? run stock or adjust your esc if you can like mamba max or turn down your exponential curve. if you dont have an exponential curve you shouldnt be worrying about too fast of a motor you need a better radio first. and the best thing if all you can control the throttle with your finger to give you less wheel spin. its one part of being a good racer its not all about steering if about throttle control too.

if you want to break your car less then learn to drive maybe start with a slower motor if your not competitive in mod then race stock class, if you dont have stock class then deal with it as mentioned in the other thread we cant all be winners. i broke both my cars once all summer and no im not a top 3 amain driver but thats ok because im racing for fun and yes i do want to someday win the a main but i dont want to do it by complaining that the cars are too fast or the cars are too hard to drive and have the rules or classes changed to suit me. if you want to run a smaller motor then do it just dont try to make another class out of it. r/c cars are gonna become slot cars soon next thing you know we have assisted steering, ABS and traction control.

8th scale cars dont break as often mostly because they are mostly aluminum or stuff like arms are 10mm thats over twice the thickness of 10th scale cars and they are very wide.

the best real car rally class, group b, was canceled because the cars were too fast and light lets not have that in r/c.
lol, I simply have a lot of experience racing as the budget racer & would prefer to see classes built to draw more people into the hobby. A $150 motor/esc/battery/charger combo sounds like a pretty good place to start, & not to mention make the cars more durable. Oh yeah, I guess that 5 years of 2wd buggy & another 4 of 2wd nitro truck don't teach you any throtle control. I also supose that m8s & mamba maxs don't have any functions to help improve throtle control. Oh wait, they do I just don't use them because I don't need them. Now, here are the straight forward facts.
A 2100lipo & 380 motor will nock off a good 400-500 grams.
There are 380 size motors that will generate more power then a 8 turn mod.
When a 1000gram car crashes the stress on the parts is reduced by over 1/3 the normal stress. If you still think I dislike alot of power then take the note my ad1 has 12 gallons on it w/out a broken part & I have dropped a mamba 7700 into my li//bl pro truck w/ great success.
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Old 01-11-2008, 06:02 PM   #48
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I never got it to run very well. I think I didn't have the right tire combo to get grip on our track, normally slick pinks. I did run it just as it weighs in. I had a very small motor in it for that. Probably a 2820 ish motor. That motor eventually fell apart, the internal rotor magnets came off the rotor.

I mounted all of the small motors right to the B4 motor plate. I used one existing hole and the other bolt came through the hole for the motor shaft. Kind of ghetto but it worked.

Not much detail in the other thread, but here are a few more pictures of when I got REALLY bored. Obviously I got bored with the drill and eventually went for the hack saw.
What a waste of time and a good chassis!
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:17 PM   #49
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Ive been looking into the 380 sized can, here is a 480 sized with a 540 adaptor on it already.
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1000 gram 2wd-motor.jpg  
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