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Old 02-06-2008, 08:20 PM   #31
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I would try the other holes someone might have put the wrong ones in them and made them bigger.

glassdoctor did you here Alberico is on with castle now. Castle won 2wd and truck this weekend at Chilli. Dave tq'd and won 2wd and I tq'd and won truck. The new software is awsome smooth and powerful.
later Jeremy
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Old 02-06-2008, 08:21 PM   #32
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I would try the other holes someone might have put the wrong ones in them and made them bigger.

glassdoctor did you here Alberico is on with castle now. Castle won 2wd and truck this weekend at Chilli. Dave tq'd and won 2wd and I tq'd and won truck. The new software is awsome smooth and powerful.
later Jeremy
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Old 02-07-2008, 03:31 AM   #33
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i tried them all. and they are the same. the holes do not look like they were made bigger.
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Old 02-07-2008, 07:26 AM   #34
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Are you sure you are using 3mm screws because the Mamba motors use the sames ones any brushed/brushless use at 3mm. It seems if it is loose in all the holes and the holes look normal it seems the only thing left is the screw going in is not 3mm.
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Old 02-07-2008, 08:18 AM   #35
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yes i am sure. and i threaded the same screw in a brush can and the same screws i use in my novak 5800 motor. i miced the and they are 2.92mm
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:12 AM   #36
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Can someone fill me in on what motor for the mm is equivalent to the novak 10.5??
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Old 02-14-2008, 12:13 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Wall View Post
Can someone fill me in on what motor for the mm is equivalent to the novak 10.5??
Right now the 4600 motor is the closest thing to a 10.5 but it actually more like a 12 turn though.
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:04 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Piimpslap View Post
I fell in love with mamba max controller again after I flashed it with the new 1.17 update. Damn thing is so smooth and cogging is completely gone on my T4 w/ 5700.

Plus, the rumor is that Castle Creations is releasing the Mamba Monster Max for MT and 1/8 in February.
Sorry to recuscitate a 3 week old thread, but I just got a Sidewinder w/5700 for a T4 I bought used. I'm quoting this post because of the "firmware" issue.

This is my first RC car, and I'm struggling with getting it working right. Right now I've set all the settings back to default (manually, with the beeps) and I don' t have the cable or Windows to run the software. I'm having serious stutter problems (what I've been told is probably cogging, though I haven't the experience to say). The Sidewinder is, of course, new, and the Castle Creations web site says the first version of the Sidewinder firmware is the same one where they updated the cogging issue in the Mamba. Is there a way to find out the version of the firmware without having the cable/software? If I'm having hesitation issues is it likely the firmware thing?

I'm running good batteries and we've checked the solder... it appears we have no problems with juice. I'm thinking the other problem would be with the receiver... I'm using an old Futaba Magnum Sport. It's all I could afford to get started but it's unused, still in the box. Seems like it should work well. I did switch the channels and spun throttle on the radio wheel and steered with the trigger. Still had the same hesitation.

I've calibrated this puppy about 30 times and darn near have the manual programming beep pattern memorized. If anyone could tell me how to figure out what firmware this came with, that would be great; at least it would shed a little more light on the ultimate solution.

Seems like it could be a) firmware is old b) I have something set wrong on the ESC (defaults, though) c) something with the receiver. Is there anything else to consider? Battery connections seem good, the receiver wire is trimmed back and the power wires are on the opposite side, to reduce interference. I'm running a 12T pinion to reduce top speed until I have more experience (I have a 19T, too, but my neighbor's windows were in danger of my wheelie prone truck)

Sorry for the long first post.

Hans
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:09 PM   #39
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Okay, looks like I'm on 1.16, based on the CC site saying that 1.17 fixed a bug where the manual programming didn't allow you to choose a motor type (this perplexed me... I thought I was skipping a step somewhere).

This is strange because the firmware release history for both the Mamba and Mamba Max state that the cogging issue was solved in 1.16 beta. But it appears it's still in my 1.16b (aka, the Initial Release for the Sidewinder).

At any rate, that's all just background to my question: how do I update the firmware? Do I have to buy the link and find someone who runs Windows XP or less?

Thanks,
Hans
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:03 PM   #40
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You need the Castle link adapter to plug in the Sidewinder to a computer. But really I doubt there is an issue from the firmware version. It should not cog on either 1.16 or 1.17

My guess is it's one of the things you suspected... radio glitching... or a motor/battery issue like a connection somewhere in the link or a weak battery. (you said the batts were good but I would double check, try another one just to be sure)
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Old 02-24-2008, 07:00 AM   #41
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I'm not sure if this will help or not. When I got my MM 5700 it did the same thing, the first thing i did was take out the bullet connectors to the motor, and hard wired them togeather. This almost completely took care of my stuttering issue. The rest was tweaked with the software using the castle link. The link is any usb cable, which can be found at any radio shack or bestbuy.
Hope this helps
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Old 02-24-2008, 07:20 AM   #42
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What type of batteries are you using? I use the 1.15 software in my Sidewinder and have not updated to the 1.17 and have no issues with stuttering or cogging. I don't think the update would make a difference for you. It is more than likely the battery, possible radio glitching, the plugs connecting to the speedo, and maybe your drawing more power on start up and it drops the receiver below 6 volts and causes the hesitation.
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Old 02-24-2008, 07:53 AM   #43
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Thanks for the suggestions so far. I will have some troubleshooting ideas for today.

For the receiver issue: if the motor draws too much from the batteries, does it reduce what the receiver can use and cause glitches?

The batteries I'm using are NiMH - GP3300, built by a local racer (I bought them used) who is on nipo now. I have 3 different packs, all the same, and I've had this with all of them.

Please keep the suggestions coming in, I'm going to start in this order:

1. Charge all batteries to peak and run them
2. Switch out my receiver for my son's Traxxas receiver and test
3. unsolder the bullets and directly connect the ESC & motor (am I risking anything but convenience here?)
4. Resolder the deans to the ESC (I did this myself, but a racer checked it out last night and thought it was fine)
5. ???

I am running the ESC wire underneath the batteries to the receiver (the T4 was designed to do this). Any potential issues here? I guess I'll make moving that #2 and try moving that around the front near the servo.

Also, the solder we used with the Dean's wasn't the stuff you can buy online. It's this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

The connections hold... forgive the perhaps silly question but it wouldn't be the type of solder, would it? That stuff looks close, as least. It has double the amount of silver as Dean's solder from listed on hobby web sites.

I'm grateful for the assistance. I'll be able to spend a few hours on it today and hope to report back the solution soon.

Thanks,
Hans
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Old 02-24-2008, 08:06 AM   #44
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I would doubt the solder is bad. Yeah the only thing with the 3 motor wires is that you cant simply pull the connector apart anymore. I just cut the shrink tape off the connector, heated it and pulled the wire from the connector. Then just directly soldered the wires back togeather. Like I said this 95% took care of my problem.
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Old 02-24-2008, 08:14 AM   #45
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3300's are ok but if the overall voltage is low it could be a problem. One thing to try if you can is try running someones lipo and see if you have any problems.

If the motor draws too much power on initial start up it can take power away from the receiver. Probably not the case unless again the batteries voltage is lacking some.

You can set the speedo to low start up power as well and the timing to low just to see if this helps.

Running the wire from the speedo under the battery is not a problem unless your speedo wire has bare wire showing (which is very unlikely).
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