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Old 01-02-2008, 12:47 PM   #16
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Are you using the inside or outside hole? looks the the inside should take a bit more of a hit, I would also put a washer on both sides.
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:20 PM   #17
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I've broken 2 front top plates on my BJ4WE. Its $30 for a replacement.

Working on a replacement option.



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Old 01-02-2008, 01:24 PM   #18
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Maybe try putting set screws in the unused holes for a little extra support. And for gods sake seal the edges.
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:38 PM   #19
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Maybe try putting set screws in the unused holes for a little extra support. And for gods sake seal the edges.
Can you explain to me how set screw in the unused holes are going to add support? In my tiny little mind it seems like it would actually put more stress on the top plate over having them empty.

Also, I believe in putting CA on the edges of CF parts to keep the layers from fraying under contact with other objects, but I didn't realize it actually added strength to the car. Can you explain that one as well?
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:06 PM   #20
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^^ Im not to sure about the set screw idea but as far as sealing the edges go, the CF absorbs a fair amount of the CA, and stops the CF from fraying and being easily chipped like is what happens when a ball stud pulls out of the side of the hole, have a look if you ever break it there and see how the CF looks.

If it is only the holes that are breaking out, try using some really wide footprint #4 washers, preferably steel ones, use one each side of the CF deck on the ball stud, this will clamp the CF into it like a vise, and stop it from being as easily broken as there isnt a great deal of surface area around those holes.
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:16 PM   #21
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Holy wow Popeye! Didn't mean to insult anyones intelligence, but take it however you want....I've yet to see a pic of exactly how these pieces are breaking. If the ball stud is being ripped out and making the holes unusable, the set screws would help. You don't think a solid piece of CF is stronger than the same piece w/ holes in it? Same concept. People have been doing it in on road for years. As for gluing, should be a given with any CF part. Ease up tough guy. Just a suggestion.
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:27 PM   #22
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The ones I've seen broken had been using stock ball cups...


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How many of you who have broken the top plate have after market (RPM) ball cups on the car?? So far the only ones I've seen break have all had RPM ball cups. FYI, I made a brace by cutting up an old Mugen MBX5 rear shock tower. I'll post a pic later.
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:28 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Doodad View Post
Holy wow Popeye! Didn't mean to insult anyones intelligence, but take it however you want....I've yet to see a pic of exactly how these pieces are breaking. If the ball stud is being ripped out and making the holes unusable, the set screws would help. You don't think a solid piece of CF is stronger than the same piece w/ holes in it? Same concept. People have been doing it in on road for years. As for gluing, should be a given with any CF part. Ease up tough guy. Just a suggestion.
I'm just asking so that I can get an understanding of the physics of how this would improve the situation. To me a solid piece of CF and a piece with holes and set screws screwed into them seem vastly different, wouldn't the set screws apply tension on the CF that wouldn't be there otherwise?
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:48 PM   #24
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glitchy- Once again, I haven't seen a pic. But if the ball stud is ripping out, chances are it's happening between holes. The set screws MIGHT help to prevent this by providing support where there used to be nothing but open space. And it would be a cheap option. Can someone post a pic of their broken part please?
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:53 PM   #25
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They should make plastic ones, 20 bucks for a part that breaks alot can get pricey.
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Old 01-02-2008, 03:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodad View Post
glitchy- Once again, I haven't seen a pic. But if the ball stud is ripping out, chances are it's happening between holes. The set screws MIGHT help to prevent this by providing support where there used to be nothing but open space. And it would be a cheap option. Can someone post a pic of their broken part please?
And Doodad, I'm just asking for you to explain to me how putting a screw in a hole (when the screw doesn't attach to anything or anywhere) is going to give it strength since you posted the theory.

Most all of the parts I break seem to break where there's a screw. When arms break on my cars it's often through a hinge pin retaining screw (a screw that mostly fits the doesn't attach to anything or anywhere description). So, I'm just trying to understand why putting extra tension/pressure in an already fragile area is going to help under any circumstances.
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Old 01-02-2008, 03:26 PM   #27
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glitchy- OK. How much material is there from one hole to the next? Couple mil? That makes for a pretty weak area. When the ball stud rips out, if this is indeed what's happening, it usually happens because of the lack of material between holes. If the holes were an inch apart(not a feasible option) the chances of this happening are greatly reduced. That being said, putting a set screw in an adjoining hole prevents the ball stud from ripping through that mil or so between holes.
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Old 01-02-2008, 03:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodad View Post
glitchy- OK. How much material is there from one hole to the next? Couple mil? That makes for a pretty weak area. When the ball stud rips out, if this is indeed what's happening, it usually happens because of the lack of material between holes. If the holes were an inch apart(not a feasible option) the chances of this happening are greatly reduced. That being said, putting a set screw in an adjoining hole prevents the ball stud from ripping through that mil or so between holes.
And how is that? Does the set screw fuse and become one with the Carbon Fiber bringing it back to it's virgin undrilled state? Again, it seems to me like the set screw would put additional pressure (spreading) on the holes encouraging them to rip apart. If we were strictly talking about head on crushing, I'd buy it as the CF would have no room to collapse, but we're talking about cracking/splitting/snapping.

My problem is that I think you've suggested something that may make the problem worse instead of better, hence the reason I want you to provide a sensible explanation as to how it will really help instead of further compounding the issue...and before everyone tries it and snaps a bunch more $20 parts just cause they heard on R/C Tech they should do it that way.
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Old 01-02-2008, 03:37 PM   #29
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Don't Hit Stuff!!
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Old 01-02-2008, 03:39 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glitchy View Post
And how is that? Does it fuse and become one with the Carbon Fiber bringing it back to it's virgin undrilled state?
edit: Seeing as you added to your post, allow me to rephrase. I said it MIGHT work. I said it in BIG LETTERS so people would see the emphasis on "might" and not take it as some miracle solution. I know that I've done this in problematic, high-stress areas on other vehicles before and it has worked. NOW I'm done with you.

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