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Old 12-21-2007, 06:45 PM   #16
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but we have to accomdate the drivers ego, which usually adds 5 turns to whatever motor they SHOULD run
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Old 12-21-2007, 06:59 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Metla View Post
4WD is a great class for any level driver.

The key, as with any class, is to not over-power for your skill level, or chosen vehicle.
In theory that would be nice, but it seems like there are very few novice guys in 4wd.

Someone who is a low skill level driver, wouldn't have much fun because they would lose so bad
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:08 PM   #18
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if i were u i would go get a team associated b44
i have one and it is awsome
i want to get a brushless 6.5 for it but dont have that kind of money
i am 15
anything higher than a 6.5 i way too much
the 6.5 is just perfect

good luch
cya
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by magm20001 View Post
but we have to accomdate the drivers ego, which usually adds 5 turns to whatever motor they SHOULD run
amen, as well
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Old 12-21-2007, 08:29 PM   #20
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Z28, sorry your having a hard time with your (my old) buggy.

The breakage you're talking about, were these from a crash? Some of the failures sound impact related.

I successfully ran a Novak 5.5r in that car. The belt did not stretch. Did you have any 'on power' landings? That's one of the few things I can thing of that would cause a sudden belt problem.

These cars too require a smooth touch, but I had good luck it. Are other 1:10 4wd buggies able to roost on your track, or is it suited towards 1:8 truggies (huge tripple, monster gaps, etc)?

regards-
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Old 12-21-2007, 08:49 PM   #21
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Z28, sorry your having a hard time with your (my old) buggy.

The breakage you're talking about, were these from a crash? Some of the failures sound impact related.

I successfully ran a Novak 5.5r in that car. The belt did not stretch. Did you have any 'on power' landings? That's one of the few things I can thing of that would cause a sudden belt problem.

These cars too require a smooth touch, but I had good luck it. Are other 1:10 4wd buggies able to roost on your track, or is it suited towards 1:8 truggies (huge tripple, monster gaps, etc)?

regards-
Eric
I couldn't be happier with the shape the buggy was in when i got it from you, so please dont think im refering to that.

I have had a few hard landings and such. This track has a few jumps that you get considerably off the ground if you dont slow down and just baby over.

The main reason i questioned about durability, is that it seems (at least locally) everyone is going to the B44. The main difference i noticed was the shaft drive vs belt.

Its very possible that its just how i drive, hopefully once i get back into the swing of things, it will no longer be a problem.

There were only a few guys at the track that night, so i dont know what kind of luck other people were having, or have had in the past because that was my first time there. I know that one of the guys there was having problems with ball studs breaking off in the shock tower, and also broke a diff that night. The track is a hard packed what appears to be mostly clay, so there is no give in the surface if you land wrong or wreck.
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:12 PM   #22
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The track he is referring to has some pretty good sized jumps and is a very technical track. It is a very tightly packed, very high traction clay track, and is really fast. The track itself is really hard on diffs and other things becuase of how fast it is.

I am the one he is talking about breaking the ballstuds on the rear and it was not even in crashes. The diff was my fault because I put a 6.5 in my truck and did not loosen the slipper up from what it had been when I was running the 13.5 motor.

The track has some nice jumps but if you over or under jump anything you are going to have some hard landings. I broke both of the rear ballstuds on the same jump. If you don't hit it perfect and land just a little crooked you will break something or get really out of shape.

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Old 12-22-2007, 10:00 AM   #23
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Now we are getting into one of those "should you vs. will you" debates regarding driving. I have always been a firm believer that you drive the cars the way the track requires them to be driven but so few people seem to do that. What good is a blistering pace if you don't finish?

If you can drive a 4WD with a 3.5 turn brushless then run it. If you can't then don't. If your track has a huge triple that you run a high risk of breaking something unless you "baby" it then baby it.

I can't count how many races I have won over the years just by driving a clean, conservative pace. I almost never break stuff and I am still highly competitive. I'm not a front-runner but half the front-runners usually break anyway.

When new guys come out the first thing I tell them to learn is restraint - first in their driving and then in their trigger.

And what I am saying here isn't just true for RC racing. DO you think a professional race car driver will push in a 24 hour race the same as he did for qualifying? If you say yes then you are VERY mis-informed.
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Old 12-23-2007, 10:24 PM   #24
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Drew - I agree with alot of what you said. Most newer racers get in over their heads and end up breaking alot of parts that way. A little common sense can go along way in terms of saving money in the wallet. I've always said it's more important to be able to run an entire race without needing a turn marshall before you can really focus on car, setup, motors, etc. to help you to go faster.
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Old 12-24-2007, 08:07 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magm20001 View Post
but we have to accomdate the drivers ego, which usually adds 5 turns to whatever motor they SHOULD run
yeah sometimes slower is faster! I usually start out with a faster motor then I should have but wind up dialing it down until I get consistant! As far as breaking parts I have had a 6.5 in my XXX-4 and everything I have have broken has been my fault and not the motors!
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:01 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by ChrisWolfson View Post
I've always said it's more important to be able to run an entire race without needing a turn marshall before you can really focus on car, setup, motors, etc. to help you to go faster.
That is key.

Case in point - a few weeks ago the local LHS/Track owner wanted to get a 2WD truck class rolling. He had me drive one of his trucks to get the numbers up in the class. I ran a XX with a Mamba 7700 and a 4800Mah LiPo. Now I have NEVER raced 2WD offroad anything in my 20 years of RC racing. Pan cars and occasional 2WD dirt oval is it so the lack of experience with them compounded by the fact that I was also running 8th scale on the same day led to me needing a fair amount of marshalling and in the end I took 2nd to some RTR truck with a stock motor and 6-cell NiMH because he was slow, steady, consistent and never needed to be marshalled.

Granted I didn't break anything but still - I had 4x the truck the winner did.
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:09 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by z28mccrory View Post
The main reason i questioned about durability, is that it seems (at least locally) everyone is going to the B44. The main difference i noticed was the shaft drive vs belt.

Its very possible that its just how i drive, hopefully once i get back into the swing of things, it will no longer be a problem.

There were only a few guys at the track that night, so i dont know what kind of luck other people were having, or have had in the past because that was my first time there. I know that one of the guys there was having problems with ball studs breaking off in the shock tower, and also broke a diff that night. The track is a hard packed what appears to be mostly clay, so there is no give in the surface if you land wrong or wreck.

Hey Zach,

The main reason everyone is switching to the B44 at P&T's is there are a lot of people at the track who run Associated trucks and buggies. The brand loyality thing is pretty strong up there. This past Saturday there were only four of us in 4wd, three XXX-4's and a X-5. I say we were all evenly matched skill wise, one wreck and you were pretty much out of the race unless they wrecked too.

The track isn't all that bad, it's what we like to call an Off-oval. The outside is an oval and the off-road part is contained in the middle. You start in turn one of the oval and enter the center right after turn three. After some really fast doubles and a monster triple your dumped back on to the oval at turn four. The main reason for a lot of the breakage is the speed you can carry.

We only had one break, Ansel had trouble with the LCD's on his XXX-4. Once he switched he was in great shape. Overall it was a lot of fun and even though I tanked it in the main by stuffing in a tube trying to take the inside I had a lot of fun. I didn't break anything so it was win as far as I'm concerned

http://www.pnthobby.com/forum/forums...tachmentid=603
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:41 AM   #28
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Need some input from you electric experts. i have been running nitro 8th scale for quite some time. now my question is i am going to buy a xxx4 and wanted to put the novak high voltage set up with a 6.5 brushless and lipo. is this a good idea? how is the runtime? and will it overheat? spur and pinion set ups? battery types? any and all input will help. thanks
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:50 AM   #29
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my opinion is that do not buy a xxx4
they are too fragile for a rough track
get a b44
that is what i have been runing for about 2 weeks now and i havent broken a single part on it yet

good luck
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Old 12-26-2007, 08:54 PM   #30
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The XXX-4 G+ is plenty strong for rough tracks. After you upgrade the front and rear pivot braces to aluminum the buggy will be plenty tough for all but the hardest hits. One reason everyone is scrambling to get the B44 is that it is the newest thing out right now. I know a few people in this thread are saying lock the diff with locktite but I did not have problems with mine nor anyone one else that I race with either. The only time you have slipper loosing problems is when the slipper is breaking in. After it breaks in it is a non issue. If you are having problems with it loosing make sure you have the right amount of shims spacing it away from the idler bar. I have seen this problem a few times.

On the XX-4 comments it was the fact that the chassis mold was so degraded that they discontinued the kit. I doubt they are going to spent the kind of money to make a new mold for a 10+ year old car. Molds are very expensive. The molds for the other parts are in good shape and Losi has stated that they will continue to make XX-4 parts along as there is a demand for them so availablility should not be an issue.
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