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Old 12-18-2007, 12:30 AM   #1
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Default On-power traction....

Ok guys, I'll be honest. I've never really considered myself to be a chassis guru (in either TC or off-road). I'm really more of a driver, and tend to adapt my driving to the vehicle, if anything. I have never had a car that I felt was "perfect".

Recently, I'm into more of an off-road phase. My question is this: What sort of adjustments can I make to my buggy (B4) to try and help with on-power traction. I've got a pretty smooth finger, but I want to be able to lay the power down just a little more agressively without it getting squirrely? I'm always nursing the throttle. Please don't mention tire choice or the slipper clutch - i'm thinking more of an adjustment via suspension angles (toe in, shock position, roll center etc).

Any and all suggestions are welcome!
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:40 AM   #2
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Thinker with rear squat.
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Old 12-18-2007, 02:21 PM   #3
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Longer Camber links, softer springs, lighter shock oil...
and most definetly rear squat. Only one at a time.
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Old 12-18-2007, 03:46 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by jgroenhof View Post
Longer Camber links, softer springs, lighter shock oil...
and most definetly rear squat. Only one at a time.
yea anti squat is very helpful. Correct me if im wrong but, more anti squat (2,3 degrees) gives you more foreward bite, less anti squat (0,1 degrees) gives you more side bite.
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:08 PM   #5
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Most guys also add about 1.5oz of lead weight to the rear of the B4.
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Old 12-19-2007, 02:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBull_81 View Post
yea anti squat is very helpful. Correct me if im wrong but, more anti squat (2,3 degrees) gives you more foreward bite, less anti squat (0,1 degrees) gives you more side bite.
If the rear of the car is allowed to squat, then more weight can get to the rear wheels. The car wants to squat on acceleration, so less anti squat will help with forward traction. It will also help with bumpy tracks because the suspension can more easily compress.
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Old 12-19-2007, 10:21 AM   #7
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I drive 2wd truck not buggy, but similar principles apply. I've found more weight over the rear wheels to do a great deal of good. Always run batts far back - 1/4" makes a difference, 1/2" or 3/4" a big difference. So some weight back there I'm sure would help.

I once ran 2 batt packs (one inboard) on an oval track and it was like a tank - ran over anything, nitros bounced off it. So the right weight in the right place is a relatively large adjustment. For this summer I plan to experiment more in this area.
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