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Old 12-06-2007, 08:20 AM   #1
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Hey guys I am looking for some batteries for my 1/10th scale buggy. I am looking for something to practice with but are also good enough to race with.

How are the IB 4200 WC Assembled 6 Cell Pack

https://www.boomboombatteries.com/Pr...de=4200WC%5F6c

Would something like these be much better?

EP 4200 6 cell Pack
http://www.slingshotbatteries.com/st...od&productId=6

The IB's are much cheaper but how is the performance difference? Thanks
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Old 12-06-2007, 08:23 AM   #2
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I stay away from the IB's. snap.crackle.pop.
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Old 12-06-2007, 08:27 AM   #3
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The reason the IB packs are cheaper because they are not match cells, like the EP packs your looking at. If you bought the IB cells matched they would be way more expensive. If they were both matched cell packs then I would go with the IB cells. Remember with matched cells you need to monitor the cells, keep them topped up and equallize them regularly.

Take Care,
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Old 12-06-2007, 09:57 AM   #4
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I'm running the non-matched EP4200's from MaxAmps. They seemed to be about the best bang for the buck on a club level pack. Good voltage and good runtime, just tends to get out of balance a little quicker since they are not matched.

With a 2wd buggy and a 4300 brushless or 19T brushed, I am getting about 15 minutes of practice or about 12 min of race time at our smaller track. Larger track will likely burn through them faster.

I think they've actually moved up to the EP4600's now so the run-times will be different.

The IB's are hit or miss. If you get a good pack, just keep the charge rate in check and you should be fine. Make sure to store it with a partial charge on it or they will flatline.
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Old 12-06-2007, 10:30 AM   #5
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Stay away from the IB's.... I've seen 2 of them EXPLODE the past couple weeks! And these were seasoned racers that take good care of there equipment.
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Old 12-06-2007, 10:40 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saint728 View Post
The reason the IB packs are cheaper because they are not match cells, like the EP packs your looking at. If you bought the IB cells matched they would be way more expensive. If they were both matched cell packs then I would go with the IB cells. Remember with matched cells you need to monitor the cells, keep them topped up and equallize them regularly.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick
Quote:
Originally Posted by gndprx View Post
I'm running the non-matched EP4200's from MaxAmps. They seemed to be about the best bang for the buck on a club level pack. Good voltage and good runtime, just tends to get out of balance a little quicker since they are not matched.

With a 2wd buggy and a 4300 brushless or 19T brushed, I am getting about 15 minutes of practice or about 12 min of race time at our smaller track. Larger track will likely burn through them faster.

I think they've actually moved up to the EP4600's now so the run-times will be different.

The IB's are hit or miss. If you get a good pack, just keep the charge rate in check and you should be fine. Make sure to store it with a partial charge on it or they will flatline.


Some people say go with IB other say stay away from them and they blow up. Not sure which is true and what to believe but thats besides the point.

Right now I have a bunch of crappy venom battery packs and one checkpoint racing matched cell pack.

What is the proper way you are supposed to use and care for these matched "race" battery packs?

Charge them at 6A, use them, discharge them, charge them again? I have the checkpoint 1030 charger and am looking to buy a discharger. What would be a good one? How is the Novak Smart Tray Special Editon Discharger?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMXZ7&P=SM

How fast does that discharge a battery? 1A, 5A, 10A, 20A, 30A, 35A?

When do you cycle? HOw many cycles do you do? What do you guys do to keep your batteries in top shape and always ready to go. Thanks.
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Old 12-06-2007, 11:24 AM   #7
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Most of the IB cells that have blown up are because people are charging them at obscene rates to get every thing they can out of them. Most IB failures are simply venting or self-discharging (flatline) to the point where they won't take a charge anymore. This can affect any brand cell, but IB's are more prominent.

Your best option is to follow the matchers battery care recommendations. Unfortunately these vary from company to company.

My personal routine may be a bit different than others because I will re-peak a pack 3-4 times per race day rather than switching out packs between heats...It's a money thing for me. After race day, if I can that night or by the next day I will take my packs and dump them on a zero-30 where I can easily see if balancing is required. If yes, then I'll put them on an EQ tray before recharging. If not, then I'll put about 10 min of charge into them before storing them for the week.

The day before racing, I'll take the packs and dump them again, put one to two full charge/discharge cycle(s) in to get some current numbers for my logs and then peak them. Then race day all I do is re-peak and start the process over again after race day.

As for charge rate, I've dropped back to a 1C charge rate on all of my packs. For off-road I don't notice any difference in performance and for oval I need the consistent feel of a slower charge and the run time more than I need any extra voltage and punch of a higher charge rate.

It's taken me a while to get into this simple routine, but with the exception of a bad cell from time to time, this routine has kept my packs fresh for a long time.
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gndprx View Post
Most of the IB cells that have blown up are because people are charging them at obscene rates to get every thing they can out of them. Most IB failures are simply venting or self-discharging (flatline) to the point where they won't take a charge anymore. This can affect any brand cell, but IB's are more prominent.

Your best option is to follow the matchers battery care recommendations. Unfortunately these vary from company to company.

Agreed...

IB has some new 4300 cells that are supposed to be more durable... another manufacturer is VP, they will have cells into the US shortly.....

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Old 12-09-2007, 11:30 PM   #9
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If you are buying EP4200 batteries they are going to be at least 2 to 3 months old since they haven't been made for a while - the replacecment is the EP4600 which were released mid November.

The EP4600 is a solid cell.

If you are buying unmatched packs then you are taking your chances - you may get good ones and you may not. If you are buying them from a battery matcher then I can guarantee you that the "unmatched" ones are the ones that didn't perform well in the grading process.

Get a decent matched pack of a known brand name. EP is good, the GrePow and a couple others seem to be doing fine as well.
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