I was going to get a B44 and just get a lipo saddle pack but the weight difference between the two is such that I can't see the car working as well on lipo without adding a ton of weight to the back of the car and thus defeating the purpose of a lighter battery. On my V2 the battery is actually the light side of the car. I may end up getting a B44 anyway just to try, but I'd really like to pick up an original BJ4

The car was designed to have the heaviest component (battery) in the back, but with lipos the battery is now much much lighter. I'm not into paying all that money for a kit that was designed to use old technology and then have to put out more money for another lipo pack just to use for that car. I think a B44 can be setup to use a lipo, but it just wasn't worth it for me I'd rather have a car with the motor in the back and the battery down the side. I see that as a better design for lipo.

Because I am not buying different Lipos for every car that I run them in. The stick packs will work in all of them. The saddles will not.

!!!

lipo saddle 4400 371 grams
6cell old round bat 250 grams

My math say theres only about 4 1/2 oz diff:ha:

I ran mine for the first time last weekend,was very impressed Got 2nd in the amain out of the box.no practice first time on the track.:flaming::flaming::flaming::flaming::flaming :

Do the right thing,b44 and lipo. :blush:

Just say no to round bat!:confused:

jasburrito with box setup did you have a problem with the steering locking into place ??? when the wheels were at full lock?
if so how do you correct it.. and is the bump steer supposed to be there

Lipo 6000 stick pack 297 grams

I could rationalize what you are saying if I only had 1 electric car and it took saddles, but that isn't my reality and at $100+ a pack I can't afford to have dedicated batteries. Period.

Understand - my current 4WD offroad car takes stick. My soon to be converted 8th scale buggy will take sticks and my electric TC takes sticks. If I were to go B44 my cost is not $324 for one. It is $504 because I'd need to spend an additional $90 x 2 for batteries just so I can run the damn thing. That doesn't make sense.

I did not notice it locking. I did notice the steering hub hitting the arm a bit though.I could grind?

I did notice the front diving hard, witch I liked. Very impressed so far.

I only run 1/10 bug and 1/8nitro bug:flaming::flaming::flaming:
U only need 1 lipo,not 2:ha::ha::ha:


A comp 1/10 scale 4wd cost around a G:cry::cry::weird:

Boy oh Boy... What is happening to this place?

Drew and I kindly state our opinions on why we arn't going to buy a B44 and you guys get all riled up.

I have less than $175 bucks in my wheeler not counting electronics. No reason to drop a grand unless you want to.

Its a hobby people, we all have our opinions and are entitled to them the original poster wanted to know about a B44 opinions were said for and against. Thats the way it should be. :rolleyes:

and the differnce between a 4200 pack and my 3200 orion is something like 7+ ounces I think

Its bad to the bone

I need 2 if I don't want to charge at the track (We are going to long electric mains). So I need to buy 1 battery for the 2 qualifiers and 1 for the main.

What is your point? I know how much it costs. What you are missing is that if I buy something that accepts a stick pack all I need is the car. I have everything else.

Once again - all I am looking to buy is the rolling chassis. I don't need any other items. However - I would need to buy 2 batteries if I bought a car that only took saddle packs.

You guys & your balancing issues are killin me. I'm running the B44 with lipo's & it handles great, I've added NO weight. Get your set-ups right & throw out all that lead you are using to slow yourselves down.

Saddles or stick?

If you figured out how to get a stick Lipo into it then I'd be interested in hearing about it via PM since that is my big "no" in regards to a B44. If you got a stick in then the door is open again.

my 5000 stick lipo fit in my xx4 i just used two nimh cells on the other side to balance it out . on the servo side that is.. and mounted the reciver by the servo.. and had the battery bar hold it all in.. worked out really nicely
as far as batteries you need to have at minium three packs per car.. since nimhs dont like to be ran more than three times. in a day

my logic is . i buy one lipo pack for each car to eliminate the 12 or more packs i need to lug around to have a competive race day i race three classes.. i have three packs that have been resting for my mains.. so they are at their best performance. and three for each car for each qualifer.

that one lipo pack will replace all your packs for that vehical .. although it may cost 100 bux but it will last as long as the car does if not longer.. and performance doesnt fade..
i run 20 mins at a time in practice with my 5700 and i use about 3500 mah. which leaves me with about 2500 mah left. and it takes around 30 mins to charge.

My XXX4 is balanced fine with a stick.