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Old 09-12-2003, 12:03 PM   #241
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Hi,

i have an short question, the wing of the mbx4 is the same of the mbx5? The hole are at the same place?

Thanks for your answer.

Yann
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Old 09-12-2003, 12:13 PM   #242
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dunno for sure...i dont have a mbx5
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Old 09-12-2003, 03:50 PM   #243
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Same wing, same part number. C1010
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Old 09-12-2003, 08:05 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally posted by Neosaka
Hi,

i have an short question, the wing of the mbx4 is the same of the mbx5? The hole are at the same place?

Thanks for your answer.

Yann
yes..the same wing......different body.
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:07 PM   #245
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Default some questions on the mbx5...

Salutations Earthlngs!
thanks for looking in, i would appreciate some help as i am thinking of swiitching to the mbx5.
-does the mbx5 use the same diffs as the mbx4?if so, can torsens from mbx4 fit?
-does the mbx5 arms or arms mounts break easily?are the alloy mounts a must?
-are the mbx5 shocks the same as those on mbx4? i heard that the new shocks are larger in diameter and require a new set of springs.is that true?
-i have alloy clutch shoes in my current buggy but they seem to wear out really quick, is this normal?
thanks for your help!
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 09-13-2003, 06:24 AM   #246
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the diffs in the mbx5 use alot of the same parts as mbx4 but i think they are different somehow (like a smaller case or gear)

mbx5 doesnt break easily at all ive broken 1 part since june and wore out 2 others

i broke an end for the front tension rod (plastic ball end)
wore out a steering ball end (plastic end)
and hinge pin bushings

so far that would be it and ive had alot of long mains 30-40 min

the shocks arent the same as the kit mbx4-xr shocks they are the optional big bore shocks with 3.5mm shafts

the aluminum clutch shoes i used were good for well over a month of racing in fact i used them for nearly 3 months but honestly should have changed them before i did
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Old 09-14-2003, 12:10 AM   #247
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Default thanks for the info!

Salutations earthling PTP!
thanks!
i really needed someone to clarify my doubts and you were really a great help. i appreciate that.
i am seriously considering a mbx5 but due to the lack of pparts support here, i have to purchase all<easily breakable> parts together with my kit purchase. so i wouldn't be high and dry on race days.
thhat was why i enquired about the alloy parts.
if they really do help in the durability factor, then getting them righht away may be better then suffering from a bent shhock tower during a race.
some drivers here also experienced the front cvd popping out from the inner drive cup when thhey do ot land squarely from a jump.has any of you noticed that?
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 09-14-2003, 03:37 AM   #248
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Thanks for your answers .

But i have an other
How you make for have an black wing? Because it's not available.
What is the tips?

Thanks


Yann
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Old 09-14-2003, 06:42 AM   #249
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the universal on my car did not ever pop out because i had the same problem you described on my mbx4xr and i knew the reason is that the pivot balls were not threaded far enough into the arms

thread them in untill you see the threads diappear into the arm at that point the camber is nearly perfect and you need only to make small adjustments from there

the aluminum parts are not needed but i will be getting them just because i like how they look

i can kinda justify buying the chassis braces since i have had a problem with the one and also the upgraded hinge pin holders so hopefully the bushings will be held in place better

and i forgot there is one weak point on the car its the steering plate to eliminate as much bump steer as possible 3mm spacing is needed under the steering plate everyone i know who had done that bent the steering plate to fix it on my car i took another plate cut the ends off and mounted the two together making the plate a total of 6mm thick with the necessary 3mm spacing for bump steer

other than those few things i have driven my buggy for a really long time and had no real issues we usually run 20-30 minute mains at club races and 40 minutes at trophy races and our track is not one of those flat boring tracks it has huge jumps and obstacles of all kinds throughout its very challenging

only 1 race all summer i didnt finish due to a problem with the buggy and that was from landing sideways coming off the triple and the engine shifted over too far other than that i had a couple servo problems and thats it

i couldnt be happier with it

and to make the wing black go to a cvs or drug store type place and look for rit dye its for dying clothes but works well on plastic also
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Old 09-14-2003, 08:41 PM   #250
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One tip I've found (actually, I just built the kit this way thinking it made sense, and couldn't understand why it wasn't this way in the manual) is to install the plastic busing from the back of the aluminum hinge-pin holders so that the larger flat spot on the busins is rubbing against the arms. This reduces wear, and tightens up the arms just nicely

That .. and if you're just buying the kit, you can also wait out on the new Mugen aftermarket ackerman plate.

The only other things I might suggest; perhaps the aluminum radio tray post and middle support brace. Make sure you use your rubber grommets on your servos especially with the alu. radio tray mounts. If you notice, when you built the kit and install the radio gear and rec box, the front of the radio tray by the stock plastic post can be moved around with your finger pretty easily. Might have slightly better and stronger steering (not that you'd notice really though I guess, but every little bit helps to me) with the alum. post. Not only that, when cleaning ... you'll be takign the radio tray off a few times and well; threading into aluminum will tend to last longer and remain stronger than constantly retightening into plastic.
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Old 09-15-2003, 12:07 AM   #251
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Default i'm definately getting one...

Salutations Earthlings!
thanks again for alaying my doubts, i'm definately getting one.
-FP
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Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 09-15-2003, 04:18 PM   #252
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chorner i think thats a great idea for the bushings i think im going to put mine that way unitll i get the new machined pieces

im getting ready to do my first rebuild the next couple weeks while the hurricane hits us

then ive got a couple trophy races in october and the seasons over

question our track here has gotten rutted up pretty badly with all the rain and us running on the track while it was wet my buggy has started bouncing around on some areas of the track traditional wisdom in this case is to use softer springs and lighter oil correct? a couple guys ive talked to this year however have instead gone to a heavier oil thus not letting the suspension react as quickly to the ruts and ive noticed theyre cars seem to be handling well in fact i got beat by one of them this past weekend have any of you guys tried this?
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:02 PM   #253
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Latest finding for the X5 seems to be the blue springs, and 7K wt oil up front for the diff, with 35wt shock oil all round.

Might be worth trying?

Also .. PTP, have you had any problems with your diffs leaking?
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:05 PM   #254
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Default i know what you're saying...

Salutations Earthling PTP!
i was at a major race over here in the east and the track was just a grass field with rutts and holes even before we started!
cars were a flying everywhere.
i was using green springs all round <kyosho type> and pistons with 2 1.5 mm holes.
front was 30wt oil, rear was 20wt oil.
but my car was still jumping around like theres no tommorrow.
some of the others were using white springs, 35 to 40 oil.
they seemed alot more stable....
hhhmmmm....
any comments on this?
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:27 PM   #255
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btw PTP, you in Florida? Hurricanes .. sure glad we don't have those up here

Unfortunately, our season is over mid October as well Have to pack everything all up and stare at it all Winter. Been comtemplating buying a 1/12 electric kit to race around for the winter .. but electric is so darn expensive! heh
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