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Old 09-21-2007, 03:55 PM   #16
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Thanks again for the comments..

We have a very large outdoor track.



I may try 4 amps due to our outdoor track I could still use a bit of boost early.

I'm running a Kyosho RB5, 2wd buggy. The gearing imo is perfect at 21/78.
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Old 09-21-2007, 03:56 PM   #17
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I run EP4200's charged at 6 amps. I also run CO27 motors. Your gearing is about right. Check with Casper over at the Banzai motors thread or on the Kyosho RB5 thread to be sure though. He is a fast Kyosho/stock driver.

The key to running stock is carrying speed through the corners. I set my car up to have quite a bit of roll so that when I let off the "gas" the car will keep rolling through the corners. I also get rid of alot of drag brake. I find that it slows down the car too much when entering a corner.
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Old 09-21-2007, 03:59 PM   #18
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Thats a sweet track! Definately a track where you want to carry as much speed as possible through the those big sweeping turns. Good luck!
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:29 PM   #19
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Sorry, hopsing hit the the most obvious point. No drag brake!! so true!! I accually have my throtal trim to ware if I don't hold the brakes on it will roll at about 4mph. Plus I drop my atv's on brake side to ware if I hit full brakes the rear wheels WONT lock up. I adjust my brake atv's for every round. As the track dries out I lower my atv's so my wheels wont lock up. Test and adjust before every run. Plus I thought you were on a small track, I don't know ware I got that from. Yes on a big track I would go for something in the same area of gearing you are. My track is only 60ftx30ft.
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Sorry, hopsing hit the the most obvious point. No drag brake!! so true!! I accually have my throtal trim to ware if I don't hold the brakes on it will roll at about 4mph. Plus I drop my atv's on brake side to ware if I hit full brakes the rear wheels WONT lock up. I adjust my brake atv's for every round. As the track dries out I lower my atv's so my wheels wont lock up. Test and adjust before every run. Plus I thought you were on a small track, I don't know ware I got that from. Yes on a big track I would go for something in the same area of gearing you are. My track is only 60ftx30ft.

Exactly
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:35 PM   #21
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I run EP4200's charged at 6 amps. I also run CO27 motors. Your gearing is about right. Check with Casper over at the Banzai motors thread or on the Kyosho RB5 thread to be sure though. He is a fast Kyosho/stock driver.

The key to running stock is carrying speed through the corners. I set my car up to have quite a bit of roll so that when I let off the "gas" the car will keep rolling through the corners. I also get rid of alot of drag brake. I find that it slows down the car too much when entering a corner.
I used to run alot of drag brake. no I dont run any, it really helps in stk.
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:55 PM   #22
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BACK when i was running stock i would step charge.. half at 4 amps and the last ten min crank it up.

charge at 4 amps and then two quals before yours.. crank it up to 6.5 or even seven.

had the punch througout the race and still made the race.

give it a whirl
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:20 AM   #23
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BACK when i was running stock i would step charge.. half at 4 amps and the last ten min crank it up.

charge at 4 amps and then two quals before yours.. crank it up to 6.5 or even seven.

had the punch througout the race and still made the race.

give it a whirl
im pretty sure that's not to great for your batteries.

Steve??.
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Old 09-28-2007, 10:50 AM   #24
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Drag brake sucks....... you need that baby to coast. This fact should be a sticky for the noobs
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:47 AM   #25
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I would run a larger spur. I believe an 81 would fit on the RB5? Maybe use an AE spur/slipper pads. Then go up 1 pinion to match. You will have more punch, and the same top speed and your motor will not run hotter.
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:07 PM   #26
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I thought the step charge was good for the GP cells, but not for IB cells?
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:28 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch P. View Post
im pretty sure that's not to great for your batteries.

Steve??.


never hurt my gp or ib cells..

didnt cause any premature loss or anything like that.

and not to mention the cells ran great. didnt get hot.
even though nimh produces its best current and voltage when they are a little warm.
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Old 09-28-2007, 05:26 PM   #28
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never hurt my gp or ib cells..

didnt cause any premature loss or anything like that.

and not to mention the cells ran great. didnt get hot.
even though nimh produces its best current and voltage when they are a little warm.
What about EP cells?
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:55 PM   #29
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If your motor is getting hot it's probably geared too high. Unless you have a crazy long straight at that track your gearing seems a little high to me for a truck. I like to keep motors under 150 so they don't fade at the end of the race, and a 6-minute race is going to get them pretty hot.

The CO27 motor has more torque than a Monster pro, so it can handle higher gearing. Lighter spring pressure will get you more RPM's but at the cost of torque. For off-road truck I always stick with the red pos, green neg for Monster Pros. For on-road I run lighter springs, like green/blue for smoother acceleration and more top end. Cut the comm every 5-10 runs for competition. Not optional.

3800 or 4200 packs shoud easily make 6 minutes with a stocker, we can get almost 11 minutes out of the 4200's running hard with a stock or 19T. Charge rates should be between 1 and 1.5C so if you run 3300's charge between 3.3 and 5 amps. 3800's between 3.8 and 5.7, 4200's between 4.2 and 6 amps. Anything over 6 amps seems to really shorten the battery life for very little gain. anything under 4 amps seems to take away punch. Whatever you decide, keep cycling your packs at the same rate and they'll perform more consistently. For longer run time, cycle your packs prior to race day by discharging to .9v/cell. Charging them in advance and re-peaking the pack immediately before the race will make a noticable difference in punch for your stock motors, plus it usually results in 3-500 extra MaH of energy in the pack.

EP cells - we tried them this year and they make sick power when they're new but seem to require a lot more individual cell balancing than IB's and they don't last as many cycles. I'll probably go back to the blue ones next year. I also don't care much for the 4200's, bring back the 3600 and 3800's they last forever!!
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