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Old 09-17-2007, 02:38 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by TMR CHASSIS View Post
Maybe if people stopped charging them @ 10 amps this wouldn't happen
This was the best statement on this thread. Six amps should be the max charge rate and at that, you should constantly monitor the batteries, especially their temperature.
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:27 PM   #32
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Six amps should be the max charge rate and at that, you should constantly monitor the batteries, especially their temperature.
That's how I charge my NiMH batteries. I'm a simple guy, I use a pair of DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC chargers. No LCD screens, no temperature probes, no negative delta-V elliptical pulse modulated refribbulating cafe mocha peak detection, I just plug the thing in, let it buzz away for 1/2 an hour, and then keep an eye on the temperature. With, of all things, my hand. Pack is warm, that means it's done. Taadaa, easy.
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:15 PM   #33
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That's how I charge my NiMH batteries. I'm a simple guy, I use a pair of DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC chargers. No LCD screens, no temperature probes, no negative delta-V elliptical pulse modulated refribbulating cafe mocha peak detection, I just plug the thing in, let it buzz away for 1/2 an hour, and then keep an eye on the temperature. With, of all things, my hand. Pack is warm, that means it's done. Taadaa, easy.
You can't get any more simple than how you just explained it. Too many racers push that envelope just to get that extra .10 of a second on the track and sometimes things like this happen.
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Old 09-18-2007, 03:00 AM   #34
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Thanks guys for keeping this thread civil and on subject. The similar thread in the on-road forum got out of hand, off subject and was closed!
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:09 AM   #35
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So what is the point where nimh goes from a good cell to potential bomb, 4000 mah? Lower? Higher?
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:02 AM   #36
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So what is the point where nimh goes from a good cell to potential bomb, 4000 mah? Lower? Higher?
That is a very good question. I have two 4200 NiMH packs in which one will charge up to 5100 maH and the second will stop around 4000 maH. Both packs have very similar numbers on the labels. Just from my example, there is no good cut-off point/measure in which to judge when a cell goes from good to bomb. Any suggestions to set some type of standard in charging NiMHs?
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:07 AM   #37
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Thanks guys for keeping this thread civil and on subject. The similar thread in the on-road forum got out of hand, off subject and was closed!
No problem, Craps. This should be about the safety of racers, not a NiMH vs LiPo argument like I have seem on other threads. Especially if you are trying to attract new and young racers, safety should be the first concern. Hard to keep newbies around if you have batteries (no matter what kind) exploding and injuring people.
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:41 AM   #38
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If a pack goes bad, dump it. I have never had any problems other than some venting. If it get hot, STOP charging them. They are safe IMO. Follow the directions with any type.
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:43 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by OTE_TheMissile View Post
That's how I charge my NiMH batteries. I'm a simple guy, I use a pair of DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC chargers. No LCD screens, no temperature probes, no negative delta-V elliptical pulse modulated refribbulating cafe mocha peak detection, I just plug the thing in, let it buzz away for 1/2 an hour, and then keep an eye on the temperature. With, of all things, my hand. Pack is warm, that means it's done. Taadaa, easy.
Mmmmmm....mochaie
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:52 AM   #40
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I totally disagree with Tim (moderator) to freeze the thread from the on-road forum.

It was a good thread that was showing all that there are big safety issues with these new Nk-Ml battery`s being made available today ...


I feel the moderator was bias and only interest was to protect said mention battery`s...


His action`s were not in the best interest for RcTech reader`s....

or


their safety !!!

Keep up the good effort Craps !!!
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:10 AM   #41
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You can't get any more simple than how you just explained it. Too many racers push that envelope just to get that extra .10 of a second on the track and sometimes things like this happen.
It also means I don't have to fight my own technology. Guy I went nitro racing with this past Sunday was getting all frustrated with his big high-end charger trying to get it to top off his receiver, transmitter, and starter box packs, and it kept giving him errors about the temperature probe. He'd push about 60 buttons making more beeping noises than a telegraph operator and get the same result. My charger, doesn't have those problems. One of mine went some 5 years before the peak detector started kicking out every 5 minutes. So we threw it out and got another one. $60 for 5 good years, I think I got my money's worth.

Sorry, but I'm not about to pay extra to trust some stamped-out microchip put together by the lowest bidder over my own gut instinct. 30-45 minutes go by and the pack feels warm enough to me, I'm calling it done. Throw it in the truck and go racing.

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Old 09-18-2007, 10:15 AM   #42
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i am going to lock this one also.....these threads dont help anyone

EDIT: ANYONEWITH PROBLEMS ON MY MODERATION OF THIS OR ANYOTHER THREAD MAY SEND A PRIVATE MESAGE TO TSR6


Thanks
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Last edited by Matt M.; 09-18-2007 at 01:27 PM.
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