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Old 08-09-2007, 10:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by XXXCRRacer View Post
K_King,

Did you have to wire up the black wiring yourself. I like that.
Yeah I did it, but it was very easy.
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Old 08-09-2007, 10:25 PM   #17
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hmmm... I was wondering why all of a sudden I was glitching on my t4 sometimes. and usually at the furthest point from the stand. I will reroute that wiring tomorrow. great info, thank you!!
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Old 08-10-2007, 06:40 AM   #18
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Post Not bad not bad.....

but try this on for size.

*note the servo extension used to pass the esc lead along the rear bulk head instead of under the battery for quicker removal if required.
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Old 08-10-2007, 09:39 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by XXXCRRacer View Post
Anyone have a better solution to neater wiring. I am still trying to work on mine.
Any ideas. Thx



[IMG][/IMG]

A few things I love do:S

1. Drill 2 holes in the chassis so the Servo BEC wire can run through the chassis to the RX. Make the 2nd hole a little larger, and run the PT wire through there too. I usually only make the hole big enough for the wire and take the plugs off to get them through, then put the plug back in.

2. SHRINK WRAP IS YOUR BEST FRIEND. You can use shrink wrap a few ways, but this is how I like to. I don't coil my wires, I rather like to keep them flat and tight running along an edge in the chassis. Take the extra length, fold it over and shrink the hole thing tight. Then (the best part), you can super glue the shrink to the chassis. Most likely, you wont have to remove the electronics until you need a new chassis, and the electronic wires won't be damaged, only the shrink wrap protecting them! This is the bomb!

3. For an off road car, run the motor wires through the "middle" triangle in the rear tower. This will keep them from inevitably being right above the positive battery lead. Then you have a clean shot to solder in the pack each time.

GTB only--It is highly suggested using a fan on the GTB. It will bring down temps by 50-80 deg F which is needless to say, HUGE.

1. Move you capacitor to the triangle behind the esc, and stand it up. There should be plenty of room under the body (I run a JConcepts Illuzion body and there is tons a space).

2. Move the ESC all the way back, same configuration you are in.

3. This is a suggestion, but understand it probably isn't suggested by the people at Novak... bend the switch, BEC and Fan plugs down to the chassis.

4. Mount a BLACK Novak fan upright on the chassis infront of the bent down plugs using "Shoe Goo" or "Automotive Goop". The bent down plugs with direct the air right into the heatsink. SUPERDIALED.

I'll try to take and post some pics when I have a chance.
Sorry, I don't have a camera with me right now.
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Old 08-10-2007, 03:06 PM   #20
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Tripthreat,

I will try that. Thank You for the tips. I want to get it as clean as possible.
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Old 08-10-2007, 04:01 PM   #21
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This was happening to me @ the last JBRL race in my RB5. I rerouted it around the battery compartment (toward the rear) and everything has been peachy since then....that was using an LRP QC2, so it isnt car or brand specific.

No its not a specific car or brand at all. was just noted what i run. and that when i had losi's it made it easy for the wiring to look nice since you could run the wire under the front top plate and the AE's dont have that plate is all. i just found it very helpful when Charlie told me of the things it could cause running it under the battery. and i even had a large peice os servo tape there with the backing still on it so it did not stick to the battery and it still was doing what i described. i thought this info would help someone else out. glad to know that at least two guys may benefit from it.

keep it PINNED!!!
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:03 AM   #22
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Here's my latest:
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Old 08-18-2007, 12:17 AM   #23
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What is that spirally plastic stuff that you use to keep the wires together (like on the sensor wires)?

And how do you curl your wires (like on K King's and XXXCRRacer's)?

Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2007, 12:56 AM   #24
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That comes with the brushless kit the spiral protective plastic. I use a wrench and just wrap it around the shaft.
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Old 08-18-2007, 03:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXCRRacer View Post
That comes with the brushless kit the spiral protective plastic. I use a wrench and just wrap it around the shaft.
On RodneyB's T4 he has it on his servo wire so surely you must be able to buy it.
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Old 08-18-2007, 04:32 AM   #26
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I have an issue running the wire harness under the battery tray. It pinched the harness causing it to smoke the negative wire. So I decided to wire around the battery and no issues yet.
The trick is to flatten out the wire so it sits nice in the chassis slot underneath the batteries. Over top of the wire I use a piece of the fuzzy velcro cut to size to prevent the battery from chafing against it. Never had a problem.

For the excess servo lead, I just bunch it up in a loop and put heat shrink over it. I then tie this down with a tie wrap and an adhesive mounting pad meant for the purpose.

In the B4 I have my AMB mounted on top of the steering servo (have never had a problem with that either). The AMB lead I just wrap around the servo lead back to the receiver.

Narly1

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Old 08-18-2007, 05:45 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickman310 View Post
What is that spirally plastic stuff that you use to keep the wires together (like on the sensor wires)?

And how do you curl your wires (like on K King's and XXXCRRacer's)?

Thanks.
They have different colors of the loom at mcmaster.com just search for wire loom.
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Old 08-18-2007, 07:30 AM   #28
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Talking cable control

Spiral cable wrap can be found at audio/visual stores, most computer shops (nothing in this world has more loose cable than a personal computer, I know, I build them for a hobby!) and at local electrical supply houses. It goes from 1/8" up to 3" and can come in all sorts of colors and translucent. Same places will have shrink wrap.
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Old 08-18-2007, 08:35 AM   #29
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Old 08-18-2007, 03:25 PM   #30
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here is my RC10T3. its quite modified, i theres RC10GT rear aluminum hubs with T4 cvds, HG front c blocks, custom built aluminum shock towers, but to the wiring, iam running a seperate battery pack for the servo, motor fan (3 racing) and reciever, had problems with the spektrum system going out on a hole shot, dono why so i just did it this way and it seemed to fix it.
i cant seem to get the pics to up load on here so click this link...
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x220/rc10guy/
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