A couple misc questions someone can answer.
07-15-2007, 04:38 PM
#1
A couple misc questions someone can answer.
Hi guys!
New to the forum, not new to RC. Just jumping back in after a VERY long break (like 14 years
)
The biggest difference between now and then is that I now have over 18 years component level electronics experience in digital and analogue. This alone has made a big impact on my enjoyment of the hobby. When I was just a kid I never though about turning my own motors or modifying my ESC's and now I can do all of that without issue. The fact that I own/operate a small repair shop specializing in pro-audio leaves a LOT of MOSFET's in stock for playtime I can't say how much fun I've had component tuning alone.
At any rate I jumped back in with a flea market buy. Two field bags of one mans junk! After I fixed and modified every ESC, rebuilt some servo's, replaced some crystals, tuned some motors, and finished reassembling all the cars in the bags I ended up with 4 complete buggy's and a TON of spare parts, two peak chargers, some nicad's, etc.. for 70 USD
Since then (about a month ago) I have invested in some new goods for the cars, and am still looking for some things as well. But I also have a couple questions I was hoping some of you guys could help with. I have been out of the loop for a while. So here goes.
#1 - I have a brand new set of LOSI wheels/tires for buggy from the 80's. But there is no LOSI buggy in the lot. Which explains why they are unused One of the buggy's is a RC10 w/carbon tub. Keep in mind these cars are all 80's models. Now I can get the LOSI front wheels on no problems. But the rears will cut into the linkage and control arms if I attempt to mount them. An extra 1/8" spacing would really help me here. Are there any cheap adapters I can use? Anything I can soak the wheels in to remove the glued tires? I just hate to throw these away! They are new, soft still, no cracks, etc. It would be a serious shame.
#2 - I dragged my brother back into this with me kicking and screaming. He broke the bank and bought a RC10 factory team t4. He also bought the mambamax 7700 and a orion 2s lipo. The slip diff lasted all of two minutes and when I setup the ESC I dropped everything as low as I could to start him off with and set the throttle control to 100% (I may be explaining that setting wrong) but it is supposed to provide the softest start. The diff screw snapped like it was nothing. He was easy on the throttle but I'm afraid there is just too much torque here. What are your thoughts on locking the diff? We built everything to spec an d just can't understand the weakness here. Any other tips?
#3 - Any newer style bodies that might fit a Kyosho Optima Mid
?? A pit bull chased it down and ripped the top off of it. So I'm running that one nude ATM
#4 - I have a few motors to go around, but the lowest turn is 17. After about 20 minutes of bashing the endbells are getting so damn hot that the solder is melting right off the wires. This is frustrating
I thought about crimp style eyelet's and just screwing them on the same screw as the brush eyelet's. Before I proceed does anyone have any better ideas? I hate to go solderless, Preference really. The newest motor of the bunch is a trinity saphire (so these are OLD) and there isn't much in the way of cooling going on other then the motor mounts being aluminum. Hell the can's aint even cut! I throw a drop of lube on the bearings (which are ball style) before and after runs. But what else can I do here? Thoughts? I admit the modified ESC's are capable of some serious output, but thats all still bottlenecked by the discharge capabilities of my batteries.
#5 - Kyosho tracker... This one's frustrating.. Picture the original kyosho ultima drivetrain. There ya have it. It's a 90's model truck thats cheap cheap cheap! And I basicly got it cheap for my GF to bash with us so she doesn't feel left out. Now shes just thrilled about this BTW and actually wants more speed. But if I up the pinion we lose torque FAST! This drivetrain sucks! And of course I can't just lop off the idler pinion and put one giant spur gear on it because that would hit just about everything. So what do I do here? It seems as if I pinion too low I get massive torque and zero speed, and if I up the pinion it's just a absolute DOG. Has anyone got this drivetrain to haul some ass? Am I missing something here?
#6 - Both me and my brother got the orion 3200 2s lipo carbon packs. Orion is very touchy about how ya charge these. I bought a cheap (23 bucks!) balance charger made by venom power to do mine. I don't mind the 3 hour wait for 30 minutes of fun. But orion recomends 2.3 amps of charge rate for these. The cheapie only hit's the pack with .75 amps. I personally like this as the pack comes out of the car warm, and actually cools off as it charges. Do I really need to hit this pack with that kind of current? The charger is working great! I had to make a connector for the system though
#7 - My brother bought the MCR superbrain. Now Orion clearly states not to use this charger, and when he emailed orion about it they fired back that they are not balancing the packs right and it causing damage. When I looked at his charger I can see why it would balance the packs right as it just doesn't have a balancing port! So we Snagged him a external balancer and I wired it up to the wico plug for the charger side and some bananna plugs on the output side. The whole things looks and works great. Now my question is will orion still warranty this pack? I mean if thats the only hangup they have with the charger, and we basicly eliminated it, whats the big deal? we can program the charge rate to a 'T' and the balancer will handle the balancing. Anyone had to work this sort of thing out with them already?
Thats it for now. I have some more minor questions, but I'll save those for a bit. I admit I'm a bit frugal with the hobby out of true DIY spirit. I would actually enjoy and prefer to drill my motor cans as opposed to buying a new one already vented for example. Not to mention that part of this brings great nostalgia for me, so I like the idea of running 80's cars and 80's parts with a new millenium sorta touch I hope some of you guys can help! Hopefully I can offer some of my electronics expertise here as well.
Thanks in advance!
- Matt
New to the forum, not new to RC. Just jumping back in after a VERY long break (like 14 years
)The biggest difference between now and then is that I now have over 18 years component level electronics experience in digital and analogue. This alone has made a big impact on my enjoyment of the hobby. When I was just a kid I never though about turning my own motors or modifying my ESC's and now I can do all of that without issue. The fact that I own/operate a small repair shop specializing in pro-audio leaves a LOT of MOSFET's in stock for playtime
I can't say how much fun I've had component tuning alone.At any rate I jumped back in with a flea market buy. Two field bags of one mans junk! After I fixed and modified every ESC, rebuilt some servo's, replaced some crystals, tuned some motors, and finished reassembling all the cars in the bags I ended up with 4 complete buggy's and a TON of spare parts, two peak chargers, some nicad's, etc.. for 70 USD
Since then (about a month ago) I have invested in some new goods for the cars, and am still looking for some things as well. But I also have a couple questions I was hoping some of you guys could help with. I have been out of the loop for a while. So here goes.
#1 - I have a brand new set of LOSI wheels/tires for buggy from the 80's. But there is no LOSI buggy in the lot. Which explains why they are unused
One of the buggy's is a RC10 w/carbon tub. Keep in mind these cars are all 80's models. Now I can get the LOSI front wheels on no problems. But the rears will cut into the linkage and control arms if I attempt to mount them. An extra 1/8" spacing would really help me here. Are there any cheap adapters I can use? Anything I can soak the wheels in to remove the glued tires? I just hate to throw these away! They are new, soft still, no cracks, etc. It would be a serious shame.#2 - I dragged my brother back into this with me kicking and screaming. He broke the bank and bought a RC10 factory team t4. He also bought the mambamax 7700 and a orion 2s lipo. The slip diff lasted all of two minutes and when I setup the ESC I dropped everything as low as I could to start him off with and set the throttle control to 100% (I may be explaining that setting wrong) but it is supposed to provide the softest start. The diff screw snapped like it was nothing. He was easy on the throttle but I'm afraid there is just too much torque here. What are your thoughts on locking the diff? We built everything to spec an d just can't understand the weakness here. Any other tips?
#3 - Any newer style bodies that might fit a Kyosho Optima Mid
?? A pit bull chased it down and ripped the top off of it. So I'm running that one nude ATM #4 - I have a few motors to go around, but the lowest turn is 17. After about 20 minutes of bashing the endbells are getting so damn hot that the solder is melting right off the wires. This is frustrating
I thought about crimp style eyelet's and just screwing them on the same screw as the brush eyelet's. Before I proceed does anyone have any better ideas? I hate to go solderless, Preference really. The newest motor of the bunch is a trinity saphire (so these are OLD) and there isn't much in the way of cooling going on other then the motor mounts being aluminum. Hell the can's aint even cut! I throw a drop of lube on the bearings (which are ball style) before and after runs. But what else can I do here? Thoughts? I admit the modified ESC's are capable of some serious output, but thats all still bottlenecked by the discharge capabilities of my batteries.#5 - Kyosho tracker... This one's frustrating.. Picture the original kyosho ultima drivetrain. There ya have it. It's a 90's model truck thats cheap cheap cheap! And I basicly got it cheap for my GF to bash with us so she doesn't feel left out. Now shes just thrilled about this BTW and actually wants more speed. But if I up the pinion we lose torque FAST! This drivetrain sucks! And of course I can't just lop off the idler pinion and put one giant spur gear on it because that would hit just about everything. So what do I do here? It seems as if I pinion too low I get massive torque and zero speed, and if I up the pinion it's just a absolute DOG. Has anyone got this drivetrain to haul some ass? Am I missing something here?
#6 - Both me and my brother got the orion 3200 2s lipo carbon packs. Orion is very touchy about how ya charge these. I bought a cheap (23 bucks!) balance charger made by venom power to do mine. I don't mind the 3 hour wait for 30 minutes of fun. But orion recomends 2.3 amps of charge rate for these. The cheapie only hit's the pack with .75 amps. I personally like this as the pack comes out of the car warm, and actually cools off as it charges. Do I really need to hit this pack with that kind of current? The charger is working great! I had to make a connector for the system though
#7 - My brother bought the MCR superbrain. Now Orion clearly states not to use this charger, and when he emailed orion about it they fired back that they are not balancing the packs right and it causing damage. When I looked at his charger I can see why it would balance the packs right as it just doesn't have a balancing port! So we Snagged him a external balancer and I wired it up to the wico plug for the charger side and some bananna plugs on the output side. The whole things looks and works great. Now my question is will orion still warranty this pack? I mean if thats the only hangup they have with the charger, and we basicly eliminated it, whats the big deal? we can program the charge rate to a 'T' and the balancer will handle the balancing. Anyone had to work this sort of thing out with them already?
Thats it for now. I have some more minor questions, but I'll save those for a bit. I admit I'm a bit frugal with the hobby out of true DIY spirit. I would actually enjoy and prefer to drill my motor cans as opposed to buying a new one already vented for example. Not to mention that part of this brings great nostalgia for me, so I like the idea of running 80's cars and 80's parts with a new millenium sorta touch
I hope some of you guys can help! Hopefully I can offer some of my electronics expertise here as well.Thanks in advance!
- Matt
07-15-2007, 10:18 PM
#2
to number 1
you can probably just pop them in the oven for about 10-15 minutes at i think 350 degrees. i might be wrong about the temp but you can just use the search on this site to find the right thread on this.
to number 2
did you have the diff tightened and the slipper tightened.
the manual should have a way of checking if the diff is slipping or not.
to number 4
do you have more pinions to try?
that might help with the heat.
and also you can try installing deans connectors.
they are really low resistance.
hope i was of any help.
you can probably just pop them in the oven for about 10-15 minutes at i think 350 degrees. i might be wrong about the temp but you can just use the search on this site to find the right thread on this.
to number 2
did you have the diff tightened and the slipper tightened.
the manual should have a way of checking if the diff is slipping or not.
to number 4
do you have more pinions to try?
that might help with the heat.
and also you can try installing deans connectors.
they are really low resistance.
hope i was of any help.
07-15-2007, 11:50 PM
#3
#1 - I have a brand new set of LOSI wheels/tires for buggy from the 80's. But there is no LOSI buggy in the lot. Which explains why they are unused One of the buggy's is a RC10 w/carbon tub. Keep in mind these cars are all 80's models. Now I can get the LOSI front wheels on no problems. But the rears will cut into the linkage and control arms if I attempt to mount them. An extra 1/8" spacing would really help me here. Are there any cheap adapters I can use? Anything I can soak the wheels in to remove the glued tires? I just hate to throw these away! They are new, soft still, no cracks, etc. It would be a serious shame.
Are the wheels and tires from the 80's too? If so, the tires are probably too hard. Regardless, to remove tires, some people soak them in acetone...this will ruin Losi Pink compound tires though. Or, they bake them off in the oven. 300-350 for 20 minutes. The tire should just peel away, if not, do it again. A word of wisdom, this will stink up the house.
#2 - I dragged my brother back into this with me kicking and screaming. He broke the bank and bought a RC10 factory team t4. He also bought the mambamax 7700 and a orion 2s lipo. The slip diff lasted all of two minutes and when I setup the ESC I dropped everything as low as I could to start him off with and set the throttle control to 100% (I may be explaining that setting wrong) but it is supposed to provide the softest start. The diff screw snapped like it was nothing. He was easy on the throttle but I'm afraid there is just too much torque here. What are your thoughts on locking the diff? We built everything to spec an d just can't understand the weakness here. Any other tips?
Try locking the diff and see what happens
You won't be able to control the car on slick surfaces.
#3 - Any newer style bodies that might fit a Kyosho Optima Mid ?? A pit bull chased it down and ripped the top off of it. So I'm running that one nude ATM
You can usually get re-production old ones off ebay.
#4 - I have a few motors to go around, but the lowest turn is 17. After about 20 minutes of bashing the endbells are getting so damn hot that the solder is melting right off the wires. This is frustrating I thought about crimp style eyelet's and just screwing them on the same screw as the brush eyelet's. Before I proceed does anyone have any better ideas? I hate to go solderless, Preference really. The newest motor of the bunch is a trinity saphire (so these are OLD) and there isn't much in the way of cooling going on other then the motor mounts being aluminum. Hell the can's aint even cut! I throw a drop of lube on the bearings (which are ball style) before and after runs. But what else can I do here? Thoughts? I admit the modified ESC's are capable of some serious output, but thats all still bottlenecked by the discharge capabilities of my batteries.
Heat is the number one destroyer of motors. Even though you can run 20-minutes on a motor with todays batteries, it doesn't mean you should. I would keep to around 5-10 minutes, then let it cool. You could also try a smaller pinion, you might have it overgeared. Brushless is a different story.
#5 - Kyosho tracker... This one's frustrating.. Picture the original kyosho ultima drivetrain. There ya have it. It's a 90's model truck thats cheap cheap cheap! And I basicly got it cheap for my GF to bash with us so she doesn't feel left out. Now shes just thrilled about this BTW and actually wants more speed. But if I up the pinion we lose torque FAST! This drivetrain sucks! And of course I can't just lop off the idler pinion and put one giant spur gear on it because that would hit just about everything. So what do I do here? It seems as if I pinion too low I get massive torque and zero speed, and if I up the pinion it's just a absolute DOG. Has anyone got this drivetrain to haul some ass? Am I missing something here?
New motor?
#6 - Both me and my brother got the orion 3200 2s lipo carbon packs. Orion is very touchy about how ya charge these. I bought a cheap (23 bucks!) balance charger made by venom power to do mine. I don't mind the 3 hour wait for 30 minutes of fun. But orion recomends 2.3 amps of charge rate for these. The cheapie only hit's the pack with .75 amps. I personally like this as the pack comes out of the car warm, and actually cools off as it charges. Do I really need to hit this pack with that kind of current? The charger is working great! I had to make a connector for the system though
I would follow the directions on the Lipo. Buy the right equipment.
#7 - My brother bought the MCR superbrain. Now Orion clearly states not to use this charger, and when he emailed orion about it they fired back that they are not balancing the packs right and it causing damage. When I looked at his charger I can see why it would balance the packs right as it just doesn't have a balancing port! So we Snagged him a external balancer and I wired it up to the wico plug for the charger side and some bananna plugs on the output side. The whole things looks and works great. Now my question is will orion still warranty this pack? I mean if thats the only hangup they have with the charger, and we basicly eliminated it, whats the big deal? we can program the charge rate to a 'T' and the balancer will handle the balancing. Anyone had to work this sort of thing out with them already?
IDK, have to ask them. Even if I said "yes, they will", that doesn't do you any good unless you hear it from them.
Are the wheels and tires from the 80's too? If so, the tires are probably too hard. Regardless, to remove tires, some people soak them in acetone...this will ruin Losi Pink compound tires though. Or, they bake them off in the oven. 300-350 for 20 minutes. The tire should just peel away, if not, do it again. A word of wisdom, this will stink up the house.
#2 - I dragged my brother back into this with me kicking and screaming. He broke the bank and bought a RC10 factory team t4. He also bought the mambamax 7700 and a orion 2s lipo. The slip diff lasted all of two minutes and when I setup the ESC I dropped everything as low as I could to start him off with and set the throttle control to 100% (I may be explaining that setting wrong) but it is supposed to provide the softest start. The diff screw snapped like it was nothing. He was easy on the throttle but I'm afraid there is just too much torque here. What are your thoughts on locking the diff? We built everything to spec an d just can't understand the weakness here. Any other tips?
Try locking the diff and see what happens
You won't be able to control the car on slick surfaces.#3 - Any newer style bodies that might fit a Kyosho Optima Mid ?? A pit bull chased it down and ripped the top off of it. So I'm running that one nude ATM
You can usually get re-production old ones off ebay.
#4 - I have a few motors to go around, but the lowest turn is 17. After about 20 minutes of bashing the endbells are getting so damn hot that the solder is melting right off the wires. This is frustrating I thought about crimp style eyelet's and just screwing them on the same screw as the brush eyelet's. Before I proceed does anyone have any better ideas? I hate to go solderless, Preference really. The newest motor of the bunch is a trinity saphire (so these are OLD) and there isn't much in the way of cooling going on other then the motor mounts being aluminum. Hell the can's aint even cut! I throw a drop of lube on the bearings (which are ball style) before and after runs. But what else can I do here? Thoughts? I admit the modified ESC's are capable of some serious output, but thats all still bottlenecked by the discharge capabilities of my batteries.
Heat is the number one destroyer of motors. Even though you can run 20-minutes on a motor with todays batteries, it doesn't mean you should. I would keep to around 5-10 minutes, then let it cool. You could also try a smaller pinion, you might have it overgeared. Brushless is a different story.
#5 - Kyosho tracker... This one's frustrating.. Picture the original kyosho ultima drivetrain. There ya have it. It's a 90's model truck thats cheap cheap cheap! And I basicly got it cheap for my GF to bash with us so she doesn't feel left out. Now shes just thrilled about this BTW and actually wants more speed. But if I up the pinion we lose torque FAST! This drivetrain sucks! And of course I can't just lop off the idler pinion and put one giant spur gear on it because that would hit just about everything. So what do I do here? It seems as if I pinion too low I get massive torque and zero speed, and if I up the pinion it's just a absolute DOG. Has anyone got this drivetrain to haul some ass? Am I missing something here?
New motor?
#6 - Both me and my brother got the orion 3200 2s lipo carbon packs. Orion is very touchy about how ya charge these. I bought a cheap (23 bucks!) balance charger made by venom power to do mine. I don't mind the 3 hour wait for 30 minutes of fun. But orion recomends 2.3 amps of charge rate for these. The cheapie only hit's the pack with .75 amps. I personally like this as the pack comes out of the car warm, and actually cools off as it charges. Do I really need to hit this pack with that kind of current? The charger is working great! I had to make a connector for the system though
I would follow the directions on the Lipo. Buy the right equipment.
#7 - My brother bought the MCR superbrain. Now Orion clearly states not to use this charger, and when he emailed orion about it they fired back that they are not balancing the packs right and it causing damage. When I looked at his charger I can see why it would balance the packs right as it just doesn't have a balancing port! So we Snagged him a external balancer and I wired it up to the wico plug for the charger side and some bananna plugs on the output side. The whole things looks and works great. Now my question is will orion still warranty this pack? I mean if thats the only hangup they have with the charger, and we basicly eliminated it, whats the big deal? we can program the charge rate to a 'T' and the balancer will handle the balancing. Anyone had to work this sort of thing out with them already?
IDK, have to ask them. Even if I said "yes, they will", that doesn't do you any good unless you hear it from them.
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