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Old 06-19-2007, 09:47 PM   #1
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Default B4 axle spacer question.

Does the beveled side face out or in?
Mike.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:05 AM   #2
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It faces in, towards the bearings. The flat spot keeps the wheels running true...
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:21 AM   #3
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the beveled edge is in. Flat spot against the wheel pin.
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Old 06-20-2007, 07:15 AM   #4
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Hahah, I made that mistake. These guys are right. Flat faces outside.
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:08 AM   #5
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Thanks Bro's. how tight do you run the wheel nut? The reason I ask because if I thighten the wheel nut to much the wheel has resistance. The point where the wheel has no resistance the wheel nut doesnt seem like its torqued down enough. Should I not even worry?
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:23 AM   #6
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Did you put the 2 thin washers behind the aluminum spacer? How are the bearings? New? Used? Gritty? Take it all apart and inspect it.

I tighten my wheel nuts down until they don't tighten anymore.
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Thanks Bro's. how tight do you run the wheel nut? The reason I ask because if I thighten the wheel nut to much the wheel has resistance. The point where the wheel has no resistance the wheel nut doesnt seem like its torqued down enough. Should I not even worry?
I had that problem when I got new hubs and didn't put in a spacer. Got some spacers and didn't notice any beleved edge like you guys mention but after adding the spacers I can tighten ti down pretty hard w/o any resistance/binding. I put locktite on the threads to help keep them tight. But when it wears off...the nuts seem to loosen some after every run...then I add more and it's good for a few more runs. Those nylon 'lock' nuts are not very good at staying tight.
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:47 AM   #8
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I am runnung them on a Gt with B4/T4 axles. I just got one shim behind the spacer. Putting on another tonight and will see if that helps.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:33 PM   #9
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Oh, now I get it. I did the same thing with my GT1. Try putting 2 thin washers on there and see if that helps. Make sure that crush spacer is between the bearings.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:36 PM   #10
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Those nylon 'lock' nuts are not very good at staying tight.
I've never ever ever ever had to use locktite. They do wear out when you repeatedly tighten, and loosen the nuts. When I cant feel anymore resistance when I am tightening them down, they get thrown away.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:39 PM   #11
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Theres a spacer thats supposed to go between the bearings? No such part came on my GT. Is it a Stock B4 part? Got a part number?
Thanks again for all your help.
Mike.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:46 PM   #12
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There IS a spacer that goes in between those 3/16 x 3/8 bearings.

I helped a buddy convert an RTR T3 over to CVD's and the procedure was the same for my FT GT1.

7377 is the part number. I got it right from my B4 manual.

If you didn't put that spacer in there, the next thing that would happen is you would be breaking axles.

I'll send you a bill for all my help
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:48 PM   #13
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You rock! thanks for the quick response. Bill me in the after life.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:52 PM   #14
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No problem. I always hated how the GT1 axles where. No spacer to speak of. I loaned a friend a set of wheels/tires for his RTR T3 and when he returned them, the slot on one wheel was all mangled up.

He wanted to get CVD's because he was tired of the dogbones popping out. So I converted him to T4/B4 axles/cvds/wheels and it all worked out perfect.
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:31 AM   #15
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I've never ever ever ever had to use locktite. They do wear out when you repeatedly tighten, and loosen the nuts. When I cant feel anymore resistance when I am tightening them down, they get thrown away.
To$$ them or just use some locktite.... lol. Even when new mine get loose by the end of a run....the locktite prevents any slippen.
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