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Old 06-22-2007, 11:43 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by BobWoodhouse View Post
RURC,

Why an 11xx instead of a 15xx? I think the 15xx is the same dia as a 540 can, right?

Right now, now 5700 is too much motor for my home track, so I was thinking of getting a 4600 from Castle, but your Neu/MM mixture commentray is intriguing. Do you have suggestions for a Neu motor that would give good run times, low heat, nice feel for a T4 or a xxx4 -- a Neu motor less agreesive than the Castle 5700?
The 15xx is just too much. There is so much power available and it comes on so strong that it will over power the chassis. The 11xx is smaller and lighter than the 540 but with more power., but not too much. You will get the same power output as a MM motor (CMSxx00) with less weight. It being a multi pole motor gives you very smooth control. You have to realize that the way all brushless esc's work they try to spin the motor to the max rpm available for the available voltage. If you can cause this to be a more grntile slop then you have smother acceleration with less work overall. One thing you will see is that the Neu motor is also so much more more efficient that this alone will allow for faster acceleration and top speed. Conversely this will also cause the ESC to get a little warmer, not because it is working harder it is just able to deliver more current in a shorter time frame thus generating more heat in the ESC. But in the end all is good.

I would treat your purchase like any other one, if you want something around 4600 kv, get one around 4600 kv. At this time I do not have one in mind for what you ask. I have an 1105/2Y in a TTech X10. On 2 cell lipo (note lipo, this is all I use and have for going on 6 or 7 years) it is insanely quick. On hard clay with Schumacher hard spikes on it will accelerate to 40 in about a second and a half. This is with the throttle curve on the MM set at a medium curve and the throttle curve on the transmitter off. I can get it quicker but I find it unessary. The TTech has a carbon fibre drive shaft from rear to front and I have shattered 2 of them with 3 cell lipo. I think that this was caused by the over powering of the system with very good traction. This happened on a blue grove track that had just been lightly wet down to keep dust down. It was on different days and both shafts had about 6 to 7 hours in them and I was being very hard on them.

I will try to play with one of my B4's or my T4. Right now one B4 has a Aon in it and the other B4 and T4 have Krontronik twist 37's in them. They run very good and fast with less weight than a Castle CMSxx00 motor.
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:47 PM   #32
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Thread highjack or what , (LOL), its fine with me ,I did the mod and got rid of the connectors too .I had a problam with the unsoldering of the red wire ,got a little worried about heat so I cut the red wire off and drilled out the circle in the board with my Niftech brush cutter drill bit (tiny) and everything was a go from there thanks to big brother upstairs for not frying my speedo .

Thanks a bunch everyone for the input at the beginning of the thread .
Matt R
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:56 PM   #33
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Hopefully you completely eliminated the problem. I tried and never was able to get fully rid of it. The hesitation or stuttering that happens on take off, after spin outs, or just randomly gets old very quick.

I had two mamba max systems, a 5700 and a 7700 and both had the exact same problem. I soldered the wires directly together, had a brand new spektrum pro radio with pro receiver, super exzes plus radio, IB3800 matched and balanced batteries, etc... The problem went away when I went back to Novak though, go figure
Seperate systems in seperate cars with the exact same problem....... sounds like something that is common to the 2 could be a issue. I am sorry that you chose not to use the endless times I tried to help you. Your doing nothing but insisting that it was the MM problem shown a lack of want to fix the problem. I gave you many known possable issues with your system as a whole. You insisted it was the MM. Can this "cogging" happen? Yes. But I have always been able to fix the issue, and most of the time it was not the MM. The "cogging" was a symptom not the root problem.

What is common between the cars? The operator. Sorry to be rude but your banter is just insane. When you will not accept advice from someone that knows a subject very deep then the root cause of the problem is you.
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:19 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Drift_Buggy View Post
How hot does everyones mamba esc get? My motor (6900kv) will run around 140 - 150 but my esc is up at 180

Cheers
Well here is a list. The first number will be the ESC The brand of motor will be there and I will give the chassis also.

155 Neu 1512 Schumacher GTRe
174 Krontronik Twist 37 B4
166 Krontronik Twist 37 T4
159 Aon Killer 57 B4
181 Neu 1105 TTech X10
160 Neu 1512 RDLogics SHO Pro 1/8 buggy (mechnical brakes)
189 same car with electric brakes after 10 minutes run time.
151 Novak 13.5 Schumacher mi2EC
154 Hacker C40 Jato
158 prototype Orion prototype carpet chassis
177 CMS 5700 Schumacher mi3

These are ones I have on the top of my head. I have built 8 1/8 conversions useing the MM and all were less than 170 useing mechnical brakes. I have other 1/8 conversions like monster trucks and road racers like Serpent and they have been in the 160 to 180 area once dialed. I have seen a MM esc run over 230 one time. That was in a Schumacher Havoc 1/8 scale conversion on a Hacker C50 motor. That truck is very unique and gears are limited to one spurr and 2 pinion gears. They run a 1.0 pitch so I cant buy gears for it to play with gearing. I have since removed the MM from that truck, it was clearly not suted to that truck. I run a BK 150 in there and it is fine. The truck was faster with the MM in it but the match was not good.
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:26 AM   #35
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Quote:
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Seperate systems in seperate cars with the exact same problem....... sounds like something that is common to the 2 could be a issue. I am sorry that you chose not to use the endless times I tried to help you. Your doing nothing but insisting that it was the MM problem shown a lack of want to fix the problem. I gave you many known possable issues with your system as a whole. You insisted it was the MM. Can this "cogging" happen? Yes. But I have always been able to fix the issue, and most of the time it was not the MM. The "cogging" was a symptom not the root problem.

What is common between the cars? The operator. Sorry to be rude but your banter is just insane. When you will not accept advice from someone that knows a subject very deep then the root cause of the problem is you.
I would have to agree with you. I have been running Mamba's for over 2 years in my Mini's and have never had an issue with cogging. Now I'm running the Mamba Max systems in my 1/10 without any issues. I believe your problem with cogging could be the wrong gearing and/or binding in your drive train.
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Old 06-23-2007, 06:16 AM   #36
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I added a fan and dropped my pinion one tooth and my cogging issue in my 1/8th scale buggy went away.
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Old 06-23-2007, 07:50 AM   #37
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I added a fan and dropped my pinion one tooth and my cogging issue in my 1/8th scale buggy went away.
Couldn't get rid of mine. I tried every thing. It just would not go away. One of the engineers from Castle was there and he couldn't figure it out. he said he yas never had any trouble with his. But said some thing was wrong with mine when he drove it. Any one got any settings they want to share.?

I got tired of the dang thing and threw my GTB/4300 in and TQ'd the 3rd round in gas truck and took the main in a 20 minute main with my Max Amp 6000's.

So its back to the drawing board big time for my MAmba. I just cant get thedarn thing to quit stuttering on the take off.
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:29 AM   #38
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Hey RURC,

So will a Novak 5.5 work with a Mamba Max ESC?
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:55 AM   #39
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The Mamba Max cogging seems so minor, especially if you are a basher like RURC, however to someone who races like UN4RACING or myself, it is a big deal. Smooth power delivery is everything.

I don't believe that RURC knows this subject very deep and is full of hype because he just admitted to running schumacher hard spikes on hard clay.
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Old 06-23-2007, 09:08 AM   #40
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The best way I could describe it is the Novak is like stretching a rubber band. Smooth and proportional. It responds to the input you put to it from slow rolling throttle to fast full on power.

The Mamba is like a fully stretch rubber band and you have to control it a lot harder on the take off. If rolling in and out of the turns its not to bad. But it has to be moving to keep it smooth.

I would recommend the Mamba for high traction. 4 wheel drive applications and bashing.
For a basher its a dream come true, no thermal issues with the gearing being more forgiving.
I'm going to put it in my foam sedan this week or next and see what happens with that. For now the Novak will not be coming out of my XXX-T again.
Now I have friends at Castle Creations and they have seen the problem.
He suggested soldering every thing and getting rid of the plugs, which he did say they in the process of changing as we spoke. They are hard at work thats for sure, we'll see what the next program upgrade offers.
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Old 06-23-2007, 09:16 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by blackdog View Post

Thread highjack or what , (LOL), its fine with me ,I did the mod and got rid of the connectors too .I had a problam with the unsoldering of the red wire ,got a little worried about heat so I cut the red wire off and drilled out the circle in the board with my Niftech brush cutter drill bit (tiny) and everything was a go from there thanks to big brother upstairs for not frying my speedo .

Thanks a bunch everyone for the input at the beginning of the thread .
Matt R
It just seems that way.
If it were not for a good debate this would have been a short thread.

Funny how if you ask, Blue or Red.? Some one will say purple.

Next time start a thread. Battle it out.!
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Old 06-23-2007, 01:01 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by mattnin View Post
The Mamba Max cogging seems so minor, especially if you are a basher like RURC, however to someone who races like UN4RACING or myself, it is a big deal. Smooth power delivery is everything.

I don't believe that RURC knows this subject very deep and is full of hype because he just admitted to running schumacher hard spikes on hard clay.
Mattnin- it is too bad that your lack of knowledge allows your ignorance to show through. One reason I dont like the Castle motors is because they do not help problematic issues. This is one of the reasons I like to use the Neu motors so much. Again I am not strictly a basher. I have most likely been doing this longer than you have been alive. As far as the hard spike issue how often do you run on a multi surface track? The majority of the track in north England where I was running is grass with sand but the long straight is hard, not iron or blue grove, but rather hard clay. The rest of the track requires rather agressive tread. But I guess that for you not giving every last point again shows your desperation to look for any small detail you can grab onto. Some day I hope that you can understand that I have done everything I can to help you but the Mamba Max holds all the troubles in the world. It may also be responsible for the high fuel prices at the pump. Good bye Mattnin I will not be responding to you any longer. I am glad that you have found something to blame your problems on. Take care.
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:49 AM   #43
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Hi,
Does the mamba max speed controler work with BRUSHED motors
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Old 07-05-2007, 05:24 AM   #44
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yes it does.
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:53 PM   #45
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does the mamba max speed controler work with other brand brushless motor .EG. lrp, novak
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