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Old 05-24-2007, 07:09 PM   #1
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Default XX-4 Tips

So my new xx-4 is on its way. Are there any tips for building, maintaining, or driving you guys have for a new guy to the 4wd offroad and the belt scene?

Thanks
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:36 PM   #2
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Add the kingpin mod and the B3 front brace mod from the get go to strengthen the front end.
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Old 05-24-2007, 09:37 PM   #3
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Got a list..
First the b3 thing is good to start with.
I havn't tried the kingpin brace thing. I use the crashback front arms. (link below) There not indistuctable, but I havn't dropped out of a race in months from arm breakege. Every xx4 at my track runs them now. A-main hobbies has metal hub carriers.(link below) You dont have to but I changed my outdrives to metal. I also run the MIP cvds. I was breaking yokes too often. Also grind out the chassies to accept a 86 tooth gear. Change the rear arms and hub carriers to the xxx cr ones. it gives you more options for adjustment. I personally lock up my front clicker, it works better on my track. It gives me a big advantage in out breaking the other 4wd's. And, no, it doesn't push!! Use the green belt in in the front. all three will be green. Cut the top belt cover for ease in maintince, plus I noticed that it allows more flex in the chassies and my car feels better on the track. Get a servo saver. It's more for saving the steering linkage than the servo. I'm just as realiable as a yokomo. This works for me.
Arms link
http://www.iq-tuning.ch/en/crashback...15741996a31e0b
hub carriers
http://www.amainraceway.com/ctlgoffroad.htm
Oople review
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewxx4/
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Old 06-01-2007, 12:18 PM   #4
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Will the Trinity front alloy 5 degree brace fit onto this? The seller says that it fits onto the xx-4 Streetweapon and the X-5.
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Old 06-01-2007, 12:49 PM   #5
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The trinity brace should fit, those cars use alot of the same parts.


The XX4, with good driving and proper maintenance will reward you with a great handling vehicle. Not the easiest to work on, but alot cheaper than most other 4wd cars.

Mods that I did - custom front brace, 86 spur, 8-32 set screws in the front bulkhead to secure the hinge pin ( no more e-clips). I did split the top plate but found that it allowed the chassis to flex qutie a bit but only in one direction.
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Old 06-01-2007, 04:34 PM   #6
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the 5 deg trinity brace will fit but was originally designed for the street weapon.

as standard the xx4 is fitted a 10deg bulkhead which is what almost everyone runs
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Old 06-03-2007, 01:51 AM   #7
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I have been running XX-4's on and off for about 8 years now (back on for the last year or so) and there seems to be a few things that really help.

1) I know its mentioned above but the B2/3 brace if you can find them. If not you can use a XXX brace or even whatever Thunder Tiger is calling there new electric buggy as its litereally a re-released B3 and has that brace. There really is no need for the Trinity front bulkhead if you run something like the B3 brace. Another thing that sucks about the Trinity bulkhead is that many of them that are left out there are the crappy ones build after Trinity stopped having Titan do all their machined aluminum stuff. The material is lousy and the fit is poor.

2) Jesse Robbers developed the trick for running the caster block screws. X-Factory sells a nice little kit that includes a bit and the screws. I just make mine out of shouldered Du-Bro 1" screws.

3) Don't cut the chassis cover to make getting at the Spur easier. Its a great way to break a chassis and if nothing less flex the chassis.

4) LCD's are great, but they're failure rate is kinda high if they are not built right. I have found building them dry, let the loctite dry and then soaking them in a thick synthetic oil over night, then wiping them off keeps them lubed and together. I am sure others can chime in about how they build them.

5) Trinity motor clamp. If you can find it, its a great help. If not there are a few people that make good faximiles. I have heard of a few people saying they're having no trouble with the stock motor clamp and brushless as the heat does not soften the brace and let the motor move.

6) If you run brushed and you want to run a heatsink Tamiya makes one that fits very nice and resembles the old Trinity unit. I think its for they're TRF- 415 (I may have the letters wrong but its something "415"). All you have to do is flip the servo arm upside down so the ball cup is not above the servo horn. It still clears the body and motor fine provided you run the lowered motor cam.

7) My last suggestion is to check out BK2.com for Jesse Robbers' standard XX-4 setup. His new one includes the use of the XXX-CR arms and hubs but search and you can find his old setup using the old "CR" rear end. If you want I can post it here as I run it on both my GF's XX-4 and an mildly changed version on mine. His setups are awesome, stable, offer excellent turn in, minimal power on understeer and they seem to work everywhere.
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Old 06-03-2007, 01:51 AM   #8
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I have been running XX-4's on and off for about 8 years now (back on for the last year or so) and there seems to be a few things that really help.

1) I know its mentioned above but the B2/3 brace if you can find them. If not you can use a XXX brace or even whatever Thunder Tiger is calling there new electric buggy as its litereally a re-released B3 and has that brace. There really is no need for the Trinity front bulkhead if you run something like the B3 brace. Another thing that sucks about the Trinity bulkhead is that many of them that are left out there are the crappy ones build after Trinity stopped having Titan do all their machined aluminum stuff. The material is lousy and the fit is poor.

2) Jesse Robbers developed the trick for running the caster block screws. X-Factory sells a nice little kit that includes a bit and the screws. I just make mine out of shouldered Du-Bro 1" screws.

3) Don't cut the chassis cover to make getting at the Spur easier. Its a great way to break a chassis and if nothing less flex the chassis.

4) LCD's are great, but they're failure rate is kinda high if they are not built right. I have found building them dry, let the loctite dry and then soaking them in a thick synthetic oil over night, then wiping them off keeps them lubed and together. I am sure others can chime in about how they build them.

5) Trinity motor clamp. If you can find it, its a great help. If not there are a few people that make good faximiles. I have heard of a few people saying they're having no trouble with the stock motor clamp and brushless as the heat does not soften the brace and let the motor move.

6) If you run brushed and you want to run a heatsink Tamiya makes one that fits very nice and resembles the old Trinity unit. I think its for they're TRF- 415 (I may have the letters wrong but its something "415"). All you have to do is flip the servo arm upside down so the ball cup is not above the servo horn. It still clears the body and motor fine provided you run the lowered motor cam.

7) My last suggestion is to check out BK2.com for Jesse Robbers' standard XX-4 setup. His new one includes the use of the XXX-CR arms and hubs but search and you can find his old setup using the old "CR" rear end. If you want I can post it here as I run it on both my GF's XX-4 and an mildly changed version on mine. His setups are awesome, stable, offer excellent turn in, minimal power on understeer and they seem to work everywhere.
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Old 06-03-2007, 09:23 AM   #9
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So why is it guys want to put the 86 spur on the car?

Will BK2 rear cvd's work on my xx4?

Last edited by jbrow1; 06-03-2007 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrow1 View Post
Will BK2 rear cvd's work on my xx4?
Where have you found some? I've been trying to find a set online, but all are out of stock.
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StOnEfAn527 View Post
Where have you found some? I've been trying to find a set online, but all are out of stock.
On ebay right now. Looks like they come with hubs and bearings too. Ending late tonight. I was told they will not fit the xx4 as the bone is to short.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...3937&rd=1&rd=1
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
So why is it guys want to put the 86 spur on the car?
Some people feel that it helps smooth out the power transfered through the drivetrain. It also provides a middle option for ratios between, say a 84/17 and 84/18 combination.

As for the CVD's. XX-CR CVDs work fine. My buddy bought a set of shiny bones from Stormer and then used his old axles from his original XXX. You can use a XXX, XX-4 or XX axlea as long as its not a BK2 axle to make your own CVD setup if you cannot find the whole thing.
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
Some people feel that it helps smooth out the power transfered through the drivetrain. It also provides a middle option for ratios between, say a 84/17 and 84/18 combination.

As for the CVD's. XX-CR CVDs work fine. My buddy bought a set of shiny bones from Stormer and then used his old axles from his original XXX. You can use a XXX, XX-4 or XX axlea as long as its not a BK2 axle to make your own CVD setup if you cannot find the whole thing.
Thanks for the info. I'm not very knowledgeable when it coms to losi stuff. I really like the car, even more so once I put a brushless in it.
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Old 06-03-2007, 04:32 PM   #14
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I heard that the Factory drivers were running the BK Bones and said it was smoother. I think they were CVDs that Brian designed, but didn't go into the BK2.

Here it is on LPH
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Old 06-03-2007, 04:35 PM   #15
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I have a FTTC4 and a FTB4 and my XX-4 is probably my favorite, could just be because it's the newest. I have a Checkpoint 12 turn and it's so powerful it's amazing. I have the rear belt to the loosest setting, and it has plenty acceleration and the drive feels pretty loose. It must be EPICCC with a brushless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrow1 View Post
Thanks for the info. I'm not very knowledgeable when it coms to losi stuff. I really like the car, even more so once I put a brushless in it.
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