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Old 12-27-2007, 11:17 PM   #256
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Hook the balancer up everytime you charge!
He he, ok. So do you feel this way about all lipos? Or just the Enerland cells. I don't own a lipo yet. I'm still doing my best to learn how I should care for them.
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Old 12-28-2007, 04:07 AM   #257
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I bought the max amps 8000 for that race.
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:34 AM   #258
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I might run the Outlaw Truck race at CRCRC in a couple weeks. But all I have are Orion 4800's. So obviously I need to get another pack. I have a XXXT-CR so I have a little wider battery tray than the MF2's and MF1's and I'm running a 6.5. What lipo should I pick up for this class to race 20 minutes?
With a 6.5 motor, 6000 mahs will be enough for 20 minutes.
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:49 AM   #259
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check the newer product where

http://rcbuy.vstore.ca/product_info....cName/74v-lipo

new yuntong 7.4V 7500mah 20C at only 120$ + ship

and it was same cell than yt90018 7.4V 5000mah hardcase same pack than Ryan Maifield win is last race

Team Yuntong
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:23 PM   #260
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If I am going to send my money out of the country then I plan on getting the cheapest product I can possibly find. A $60 25c 6.75ah pack sounds more like it to me. Lipos cells will not vary from cell to cell in performance for the aplications we are using them in. All you need to do is treat it properly so it will last a long time.
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Old 12-29-2007, 08:12 AM   #261
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in any way 99% of the battery are manufactured on the other continent by chines at 25 cent / hour

i tested many brand and there are of them which inflates all alone on the table to much humidity in cell

it is very rare to find batteries which suporte discharge until 2V/cell

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All you need to do is treat it properly so it will last a long time.
I thinks the RC is not made for IT

The RC needs to have product which is protected all alone from the improvidence
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Old 12-29-2007, 07:52 PM   #262
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Personaly I don't drag my r/c packs in the mud. I stick them in a well protected battery slot that leaves the pack unexposed to any sort of contact. If you are worried about dragging cells through the mud then I guess you could run a123 cells, they are dirt cheap & more durable then lipos. There is also a reason I could care less about 2v a cell discharge. A 6volt lipo cutoff will stop my cells at 3volts per cell. I believe that if you treat them properly and you don't drag them through the mud they will last a long time.
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Old 01-22-2008, 11:39 AM   #263
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bringing this thread back up...

I had a blast at the last WOR race running a 1/8 scale brushless buggy. it worked out good and I just made the 20 minute mark using a 14.8V 6000mah battery pack, maxamps brand. If I didn't have the wheel spin issues I was getting, it probably would have made the race time with even more to spare (it started to dump about 10 ft from the finish line).

Anyway, this has me looking into doing the same thing but with a 1/10 scale vehicle. My hopes were resting on a buggy, but looking more into it, that doesn't seem like it will be a go as the class sizes right now and what I want to do with it (run 20 minute mains with nitro trucks) isn't possible. 2wd truck they could be more accepting of.

So, now that this has pretty much been decided, its time pick a powerplant as well as battery configuration. I am looking for the latest info on what is going on.

I am thinking a motor in the 6900 or slower range, or 5.5r and slower range should be plenty fast enough for my 2wd truck to compete with the nitros, so I would like to know the following along those lines:

1. what brand appears to be the most durable for this kind of abuse from the sensored manufacturers? (LRP, novak, etc)

2. Anyone have experience with trinity duo motors?

3. How well have mamba max motors held up to that kind of runtime?

For ESCs, its a toss up right now between a sensorless Mamba max, or an LRP or Novak sensored system. I have used the Mamba max setup before in 1/10 and currently use it in 1/8, so I am happy with them, but need to know the following from guys who have been running them in truck just like the other ESCs.

1. How durable have the ESCs been?

2. For the ones that can be equipped with a factory fan, has the fan been necessary?


Next, time to pick a chassis. Slim pickin's right now, with primarily the Losi XXXTCR or the Associated T4 as the options. I am hoping though for something from Academy or Kyosho VERY soon, but we know how that can go. Anyway, of the two available:

1. How has durability been in the 20 minute mains?

2. Which ones tranny has held up the best to the 20 minute mains over a season?

3. How has shock performance been for those extended mains between the two?

Finally, battery choosing time! This one should be pretty simple. I have been looking all over, reading up on the various packs out there. The new trinity one interests me alot, especially its ratings and built in cutoff circuitry, price doesn't hurt either! So here are my questions:

1. What do you feel is the minimum mah rating a pack much have to complete a 20 minute race with the maximum power motor I listed above for sensored and sensorless?

2. Of those packs that would meet this criteria, what do you think of them each individually?

3. Does anyone have experience with hyperion 5350 battery packs?


I think that is about it. Very curious about doing something like this.
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Old 01-22-2008, 12:44 PM   #264
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The gtb line is probly the most popular choice for this class, however mamba has new software that just came out which suposedly fixes the issues that people had w/ it. The gtb will run great w/ a sintered rorot(this is a must) & the mamba runs great for the time as well. I don't have much exp. w/ the lrp system. The t4 & xxx-crt both need some parts out of the gate to make them good & race worthy. I would just pick up which ever one has the best local support. The hpi truck actually looks very promising for this class, reminds me of the t-4 w/ great modifications to better suit mod. However, I would wait for an ss version b4 investing into one. As far as lipos are concerned I would just pick up an 8kmah lipo. You won't need all of that capacity, but if you get cramped on charging time you will be able to get enough juice in it to run a 20 minute race b4 it starts to slow down & peak the pack. Personally I run a hybrid xxx-t w/ a mamba 7700 & an a123 2s 3p pack. I like the a123 pack, it requires to work to get in into the car, because of the abillity to charge it in under 20 minutes.
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Old 01-22-2008, 12:57 PM   #265
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I've been running a MAmba 6900 in my T4 with MaxAmps 6000's lipos.

PLENTY of speed. maybe too much. (did I say that?) No problem keeping up with and passing the nitros.

No issues with heat or runtime. I'm guessing i get over 30 minutes. Closer to 40 minutes. I hardly ever get to full throttle on a large track, so I guess I'm taking it kinda easy.

I've regularly run 20-30 minutes at a crack with no durability issues, unless there's pipe hopping Revo's on the track at the same time.

I also run the novaks, but those are in my B4 and BJ4WE.
No fans on the B4, with a 5.5, 6000 lipo super long runtime, gets warm, not hot.
Fan on the BJ4, 4.5, 4400, i think i'm getting over 25 minutes. Gets a little warmer.

I personally think the Mambas motors are a little more fragile than the Novaks. With them hanging out the rear of the truck, they don't seem to take a hit as well at the Novaks. I've got a couple of Mambas with bad bearings and the rotor rubbing slightly. I've had the same 5.5 in my B4 for 2 years. I've replaced the endbell once, over a year ago.

I really like the feel and programmability of the Mamba, but I like the durability and ability to replace parts on the Novak motors.

That said, I use the aluminum motor guard on my T4, and so far it's been protecting the Mamba quite well. A slight but firm hit from the rear with the stock plastic motor guard was what took out my Mamba last time. It still worked ok, but it wasn't very quiet anymore. Since the switch to the aluminum guard, I haven't had anymore problems. (coincidence? maybe)
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Old 01-22-2008, 04:09 PM   #266
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Thanks for the info guys.

Do you know of other people running other packs for the 20 minutes?
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Old 01-22-2008, 04:40 PM   #267
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It really all depends on your motor selection. I have heard of guys running 20 minutes w/ the orion 4900 lipos & like a gtb 10.5. Your best bet though is to pick up an 8kmah lipo because it weighs about the same as a nimh pack & it will give you good charge time to performance w/ the available chargers on the market.
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Old 02-12-2008, 08:00 PM   #268
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8000 mah packs under $100?? 20-30 mins of run time??? Why would I want to run nitro anymore??? haha....i'm getting the t4 together again this spring for sure. Maybe the class will pick up around here. Very interesting thread though. Awesome track pics too.
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Old 02-12-2008, 08:46 PM   #269
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I have been running Thunder Power 8000's for years and they have been great packs. We run 20 minute A mains at the ECNS (East Coast Nirto Series) Pro Truck Class (1/10 scale brushless/ Li-po).

You can now run your Brushless/ Li-Po truck at all the RC Pro Series races too. Its the 1/10 2wd truck class (nirto and electric) check it out http://nitrooffroad.rcprosites.com/s.../contentid/236 , scroll down to the vehicle rules (you can also run electric in the monster truck class too).

I prefer the 8000 gives plenty of run time with the 5.5., 6.5 motors on the larger tracks. I also like the weight of the 8000 packs. In the summer time diffently a fan on the ESC
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Last edited by Doug T; 02-12-2008 at 08:54 PM. Reason: change
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Old 02-12-2008, 08:58 PM   #270
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I don't have lipo cutoff in my novak esc. Just wondering...when the speedos cutoff the packs, is the truck noticeably slower? Or should I get a voltage cutoff to be safe? But yes, I will be at the rc pro races for sure this year.
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