XXX-NT Sport vs AD2
#1
XXX-NT Sport vs AD2
Hello all,
I've bought a XXX-NT Sport RTR 2 lately and would like to start upgrading it. Are all the AD2 parts compatible with it? I mean could I exchange the whole rear suspension (arms, support, shock tower,...) and plug it on Sport's chassis?
I'm also searching for XXX-NT configs (servos, engines,...) used by competitors to have an idea of possible upgrades but it's rather difficult to find on the net. Any suggestion?
Thanks
Sylvestre
I've bought a XXX-NT Sport RTR 2 lately and would like to start upgrading it. Are all the AD2 parts compatible with it? I mean could I exchange the whole rear suspension (arms, support, shock tower,...) and plug it on Sport's chassis?
I'm also searching for XXX-NT configs (servos, engines,...) used by competitors to have an idea of possible upgrades but it's rather difficult to find on the net. Any suggestion?
Thanks
Sylvestre
#3
That's the question, I don't know...
#4
Yes, you can convert your RTR to full AD2 spec. For the front end, you'll need the AD2 arms and caster blocks, and the front axles to use the AD2 front/rear wheels (they're the same).
The rear is a little more tricky. You'll need the pivot block, arms, hubs, axle, dogbone, and all the hardware. The rear shock tower is only slightly different; you can run your original one with no problems.
Click here for the AD2 Parts Exploded View
The rear is a little more tricky. You'll need the pivot block, arms, hubs, axle, dogbone, and all the hardware. The rear shock tower is only slightly different; you can run your original one with no problems.
Click here for the AD2 Parts Exploded View
#5
Thanks for your answer Aaron.
As I would have to change a lot, do you recommend third party products for any of the parts to replace?
As I would have to change a lot, do you recommend third party products for any of the parts to replace?
#6
A lot of guys around here are running the rock concept alluminum rear pivot block. If you do upgrade the rear suspenstion arms, make sure you lock-tite everything that screws into the aluminum hubs.
#7
Even if you don't do the complete changeover because there are so many parts, you can still just use the AD2 rear pivot block. Almost all of the racers I race with who run the older versions do this. The AD2 rear pivot has 4 degrees of toe in rather than 3. It really helps in straight line stability so you can put the power down a little better.
#8
Your best bet will be to get better servos, and a good mill first. The only upgrade the rtr II realy needs is a set of lunsford turnbuckles. The stock mill has plenty of power, but there are a lot of mills which will be a lot more effecient.
#9
party_wagon: Which servos do you recommend? I used to compete in TT1/10 4x2 Elec some years ago and KO Propo FET were the best at that time. Things changed I guess.
gubbs3: Thanks for the tip. When changeing rear pivot do I have to switch to AD2 wheels as well?
kevinmajor: Thanks for your advice, I'll consider it.
gubbs3: Thanks for the tip. When changeing rear pivot do I have to switch to AD2 wheels as well?
kevinmajor: Thanks for your advice, I'll consider it.
#10
Nope, nothing else will change. You will need to grind a small flat spot on the hinge pin since it is held in place by a set screw. That's it!
#11
Tech Initiate
i've had a losi XXX-NT sport since i got into this hobby about 4 years ago and i love the truck and i would recomend upgrading the rear piviot block to aluminum, the turnbuckles to titanium, also the ball studs, and as for a motor go with a .12 racing motor with a good tuned pipe, +++ suspension is a big part if u plan to race 4 oil run 35 front 30 rear.