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Old 04-29-2007, 03:47 PM   #1
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Default Mugen Starter Box question?

I have a Mugen starter box BII only had since feb 07,had just bought one of their buggies and used it to start maybe 20 times had a new rb ws7 and thought maybe engine was to tight thats why box could just barely turn engine over I also always use a heat gun to preheat engine before starting. Box quit working i noticed a bad solder joint and re-did it. about 3 times of using box after that it quit working completely. I sent motors back to mugen they sent them back about 3 weeks later I may a used it to start buggy with same engine in 4 times and once today about 90degrees outside. then it quit working again. I guess mugen didnt do anything when I sent it to them got back both of the same motors. I looked inside the motor with flash light and one brush was completely gone. I want to replace both motors with 2 stock orions 27turns or should I use something else?
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Old 04-29-2007, 06:23 PM   #2
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my mugen box has 2 traxxas emaxx motors. my originals died after 3 years of useage. The traxxas motors are really stong. maybe twice the power of the stock ones. just make sure your batteries are up to it.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:32 PM   #3
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And lose the Tamiya plugs for Dean's Ultra plugs.
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Old 05-18-2007, 12:59 PM   #4
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Default Trouble Turning over Engine w/ Mugen Box

This is my first post, and have been looking around for an answer to a similar question. I also bought a Mugen Pro II starter box and have been trying to start an Axial .28 for my MBX5-T for the past couple of weeks.

My batteries are freshly charged and hooked up (even replaced the connectors with Dean's). I've aligned the Truggy's chassis exactly with the center of the rubber doughnut; however, I can't seem to get the engine to turn over. I swear that I've shaved off a good 2mm off of the wheel. The starter box is filled with rubber shavings. If I hold down the truggy to make a complete connection between the engine and the wheel, I can keep the starter wheel from turning...so I know that I have the truggy aligned right.

I'm relatively new to Nitro and am wondering, am I doing something wrong? In theory I should be able to turn the engine over just by pressing down on the truck and engaging the starter doughnut with the engine right? Or, is it possible that I would need stronger motors in the starting box?

Since the engine is extremely tight at TDC, do I need to do anything else? Would a heat gun help?

I'm pretty excited to get the engine started, as the truggy has been finished for a few weeks.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-19-2007, 02:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhewes
This is my first post, and have been looking around for an answer to a similar question. I also bought a Mugen Pro II starter box and have been trying to start an Axial .28 for my MBX5-T for the past couple of weeks.

My batteries are freshly charged and hooked up (even replaced the connectors with Dean's). I've aligned the Truggy's chassis exactly with the center of the rubber doughnut; however, I can't seem to get the engine to turn over. I swear that I've shaved off a good 2mm off of the wheel. The starter box is filled with rubber shavings. If I hold down the truggy to make a complete connection between the engine and the wheel, I can keep the starter wheel from turning...so I know that I have the truggy aligned right.

I'm relatively new to Nitro and am wondering, am I doing something wrong? In theory I should be able to turn the engine over just by pressing down on the truck and engaging the starter doughnut with the engine right? Or, is it possible that I would need stronger motors in the starting box?

Since the engine is extremely tight at TDC, do I need to do anything else? Would a heat gun help?

I'm pretty excited to get the engine started, as the truggy has been finished for a few weeks.

Thanks for the help.
no matter what box, with most engines now adays, you really need to heat them up with a heatgun or a hair dryer to start them when they are new. don't be afraid to heat it up to 80 90 or 100 degrees celcius, but be careful with the surounding parts, and place the heatgun near the case as well, not just over the heatsink.
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Old 05-19-2007, 04:39 AM   #6
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To start my Nitro Tourer (sirio) i use 2 peak 15x2, awesome. Now believe me, i had the biggest prick of an engine for 1/8th scale. This motor was hugely tight, it took me ages to even get it to turn over on a starterbox.....until i went out and bought a thunder tigre 1/8th one. It only has 1 motor but has massive power, turned my sirio over enough to get it started and it eventually lost compression, still has an aweosme nip at top dead centre but the starter box has no trouble starting it whatsoever!
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Old 05-19-2007, 05:49 AM   #7
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If you haven't done it already, lose the stock Tamiya connectors on the Mugen box and replace them with Dean's Ultra Plugs. The box will work MUCH better.

Second, take out the motor cage assembly and shim it up with 2mm of washers to raise the wheel.

Finally, when you set the truck on the starter box, make sure the alignment pegs are as far over to the right (passenger) side of the truck as they'll go. I move these pegs over and then tighten them up. I keep the left side pegs snug, but loose enough so that you can slide them with a little pressure. Put the MBX5T on the box and center (front to back) the flywheel to the starter box wheel. Then slide the left side pegs over to the chassis. Remove the truck, open the box and tighten down the left side pegs. With the truck shifted a bit to the right the wheel will have better leverage on the flywheel.

If you want ultimate starting power and a SUPER light weight box, ditch the two stick packs for the HT Batteries HT-500 LiPo pack (just make sure you use the proper charger with the LiPo).

Best regards,
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Old 05-19-2007, 08:46 AM   #8
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Default Thanks for the input - will give it a try

Thanks for the advice; I'll give the heat gun and shimming the starter box motor cage a try and let you know how it goes later on in the week. I appreciate the help.
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