Bohh

iTrader: (9)

Hi guys,

Looking to jump into the race season this year. You might have seen my thread about which gas buggy to get, but I also have the Team Associated RC10T3 that I've had in the garage for the past few years. I built it from a Team Kit so it has all the bearings and additional extras that came with that kit however it has a cheap brushed motor on it from YEARS ago. So, not knowing, but I'm guessing I need a new motor in order to be competitive.

The class the T3 will be in has rules as follows:

Open Truck:
-Electric only
-1/10 Scale 2-Wheel Drive Trucks only
-Motors - Any Stock, 19 Turn, Modified or Brushless
-Batteries - NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, Li-Ion
-Popular Tires - Front: Losi 8-Rib or Directional \ Proline The Edge; Rear: Losi IFMAR Pin or Taper Pin \ Proline Holeshot or Evil Twin
-Examples: Associated T4, Losi XXXT MF2, DuraTrax Evader ST, Sportwerks Raven ST, Traxxas Rustler, etc.

With that in mind what would you recommend I get so I can be competitive with the T3? Will the option you suggest need additional upgrades in the drive system or will it be as simple as swapping out the old motor and ESC for a new one?

Thanks a lot,

-Mike

Mason

just get yourself some fresh springs, shock rebuild kit, figure out your power situation and that's pretty much it. if you are racing on a dirt slinging track theres no need to 'upgrade' for the sake of performance. there are parts that make things easier, such as threaded shock bodies.. but nothing that improves performance on the track.

if you are racing on something hard packed that can be a little bit of a different story - though those tips are all using std parts anyways.

hang out with a few t4 guys, you might want to get one when you see what the difference is in working on them.

action135

iTrader: (1)

with the t3 it is a good idea to rebuild the shocks on a regular basis. by that i mean very often.

Iceracer

iTrader: (1)

If they allow you to run lipo batteries, I would not waste a dollar on nimh and support equipment and go straight to lipo. You can run a single pack and just charge it back up between races. An Orion 3200 or 4300 is in a hard shell and fits perfectly in place of a 6 cell pack. If traction is low, a Novak 13.5 brushless motor may be more than enough power and maintenance free. You've got a nice open set of rules, so you'd might as well take advantage of the low maintenance technology.

MADMAN23

iTrader: (27)

are you going to run stock mod. or pure mod? or bl?

Tim W.

iTrader: (1)

here was a thread that might help also

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=127814

Bohh

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not sure what the stock mod, pure mod, or brushless means Madman. I'm just looking for whatever will fit within the ruleset I posted.

Brushless sounds good, I've been flying r/c planes and using brushless and lipos and I can definitally see the advantage of that.

Why do the shocks on the T3 need be rebuilded often? I noticed one of mine leaks, will that fix it?

Thanks a lot,

-Mike

action135

iTrader: (1)

yeah, that just seems to be the way the shocks were. i also had one and tried to rebuild them at least once a week if not more. That should fix the problem. Make sure to use the red o-rings, they seem to work the best.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Based on the rules you listed for the class, I probably would do this:

1. Go with a Lipo battery pack like the 6000mah - 8000mah Max amps packs. These probably will be the only pack you need at all. Just recharge and go.

2. Go with a brushless setup. Mamba max, novak, etc. No need to mess with brushed motors if you don't have to.

3. Pickup the most common used tires for the track.

4. Give your truck a thorough tear down. Be prepared to replace parts as necessary. If it feels alittle sloppy, replace.

I think that is about it. This is assuming you have other electronics already like radio, servo, etc picked out.

crazyjr

not sure on setup or tires but i'd go with a ss5800 with the novak lipo saver and a maxamps 8000 2s lipo, I know its pricey, but it doesn't offset weight much (2ozs) and one pack can last all day ( depends on length of race and how many Q's before the main

Bohh

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the replies guys. Looking at the Mamba Max's it appears they have different KV ratings. Is there one you would suggest and would I need to upgrade any of the drive components to handle this extra power?

Thanks,

-Mike

action135

iTrader: (1)

If you need, some sites are still up that have good setups for the t3.

swopemike

iTrader: (6)

I would get the GTB with a velociti motor (7.5 for med to small tracks, down to 4.5 or 3.5 for large tracks with long straights, or for oval.

www.teamnovak.com

I don't think you need a hard case LIPO for stadium truck. Go for max capacity (6000 or 8000) and at least 20C rating, and good quality cells. Many guys in Carolinas are using maxamps 8000 with success, see the thread on electric trucks 20 min mains.

www.maxamps.com

You can run a 13.5 motor or such, but you will want more power and you can always turn down the throttle if it's too fast (if you can't you need to get a new radio anyway, go DSM and get spektrum, www.horizonhobby.com)

Many other people like Mamba. I don't have direct experience although some guys around here drive them. But Novak tech support is A #1 top notch and I recommend them.

The T3 is still a fine truck. Still beating the pants off lots of other ones out there. I love mine. Fun beating someone with an old truck. The key upgrades to a T3 are RPM plastic parts for the stock ones that break, and lunsford Titanium to replace the turnbuckles.

seth556

iTrader: (43)

The Mamba Max is an excellent system. Right now I'm running a xxx-t with a 4600kv system and it give all the speed I need. So I would get a 4600 or 5700kv motor depending on how big the straights are on your track. Then a 2s2p li-po from MaxAmps. Rebuild the shocks, clean it, set it up from some fast guy's setup sheet, then get the tires that everybody's using at your track. Then get lots of practice.

Oh, and the tech support from both Castle Creations and MaxAmps is the best I have ever dealt with. I mean maxamps even sent me a thank you card for buying a battery from them. And the battery is A+.

THE_REAL_FROBOY

if i were you i would widen the truck out first. all you need is some axles off of a t4. this will widen the truck to legal limits. you should also put a 1/4 inch spacer on the front axle and then use a metal wheel nut on the front. the nuts are 5-40 the same as the slipper clutch nut. this makes the truck more stable and allot easier to drive with a modified motor