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Old 04-17-2007, 11:16 AM   #1
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Default Clutch Maintenance, what you look for

Going through my breakin with my CEN Matrix, and I was curious what I should look for as far as clutch maintenance and also keeping the flywheel where it should be. I noticed it started loosening up, so I am figuring the nut needs to be tighened again.

Also, what is everyone using to lock up the piston?
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:16 PM   #2
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I use a set vise-grips on the flywheel to tighten the nut. NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER put something inside the engine to keep the crank from moving. seen guys put screwdrivers and other things in the exhaust and ruin the engines by scoring the piston and one guy even DENTED his piston by wrenching on it so hard. i would rather something happen to the flywheel by vise grips slipping than take a chance and ruin a expensive engine.... i always check my clutch after every 4-5 races if something like a bearing doesn't go between checks.
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:23 PM   #3
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How does putting vise grips on the flywheel keep the pilot shaft from moving if the flywheel is not grabbing it? Thats the problem I think I am having. To get the screw out of the shaft, now with the flywheel turning, how can you lock it up?

What I did prior on another engine was using the end of a plastic tooth brush to hold it steady inside. This wouldn't scratch anything. I heard on another site a guy used chopsticks (one of the magazine editors).

If someone has a better method I am all ears.
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:31 PM   #4
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Are you sure you have the proper collet for your flywheel? I've never had to "lock" the motor in any way. Just put the fly wheel on... then the nut... get it hand tight and nice and square. Hold the fly wheel with my hand and crank in on... then finish it off with channel locks on the flywheel.
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:35 PM   #5
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I have two collets here, one was alittle more difficult to put on the engine so I went with that as I figured it would grip better.
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:41 PM   #6
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Dont pay attention to the fit on the crank as much as the taper of the collet to the taper in the flywheel. The hole in every collet should be the same. (roughly)
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:55 PM   #7
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So should I go for one with more taper, less taper, etc? Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:58 PM   #8
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If you happen to have after run oil it works best.Put the piston close to TDC and fill the combustion chamber with after run oil from the glow plug hole.Put the glow plug back in and you should be able to tighten the nut better than other methods.
I have done the other method as well which resulted in an unusable piston and cylinder DO NOT DO THAT EVEN IF YOU USE FUEL TUBING ON THE SCREWDRIVER.It does not work !!!!!!!!
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:25 PM   #9
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I was gonna metion the oil trick too : )
You can also use string as well.

Cain, make sure you don't need a washer behind the collet, or behind the flywheel nut. If you run out of threads it may feel like it's tight and not be tight. If you have two collets at least one of them should work. If it looks like it fits, then it probably does and you just need to add a shim in one of those two places.

I use channel locks to grip the flywheel when tightening it up. A battery terminal remover from the auto store makes a good flywheel puller when they are being stubborn to remove as well.

Clutch maintenance is alot more if running aluminum shoes. Have to make sure and check it fairly often to remove the flashing buildup around the edges and where the spring goes. Carbons are simple, just look at them and it'll be obvious if something is wrong or needs replaced. If ya ever have to replace one clutch spring, just replace them all so they're all good to go instead of just one. I usually add a small drop of oil to the bearings. Some say that is a bad idea. But I have great luck with my clutch bearings so I keep my routine. I like a bit of endplay in my clutchbell too, so I can wiggle it back and forth when everything is put together.

Oh ya, I run a couple electric motor shims under the shoes to keep them from rubbing the flywheel.
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:33 PM   #10
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you only have to have the electric motor washers if you run aluminum shoes. you do not need them with carbon shoes.i too like a little play on the cb when it's all tight. not much,just a little. i like to add just a drop of oil to my bearings too.
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Old 04-17-2007, 03:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain
So should I go for one with more taper, less taper, etc? Thanks for your help!
The one that fits the taper of the flywheel the best.

I dont know that I would fill the chamber with oil either... your still putting a lot of stress on that tiny little piston, conrod, bushings, etc.
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Old 04-17-2007, 03:22 PM   #12
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Thanks for the info guys. I dont' think I have the washers on from the engine to the collet. That probably is causing my issue.
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:21 PM   #13
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on the tr engine it should go COLLET,FLYWHEEL,AND NUT THEN THE SHOES AND STUFF but when you loosen the nut everything should be fine untill you put the flywheel back on then as you tighten it thats when slipage should happen and alls you have to do is hod the flywheel with your fingers(pretty much squeezing the back plate and the flywheel together and then is will grab and you will be on your way
it really really isnt that difficult
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