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Old 03-19-2018, 01:50 PM
  #19936  
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question for those with the Losi e-conversion kit.

Are you able to change battery mounting position to change handling characteristics like on the 3.0?

Thanks!
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:45 AM
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Not that much. Depending no the battery you use. It is highly recommended that you box the battery in tight with foam to protect it in a crash.
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Old 03-20-2018, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DJ1978
Not that much. Depending no the battery you use. It is highly recommended that you box the battery in tight with foam to protect it in a crash.
So essentially you can only move the battery position within the tray itself and not change the mounting of the ESC and battery try to be either ESC in back of chassis or in front?



Has anyone tried mounting the battery tray and esc tray from a e3.0 to a conversion? Im assuming the chassis holes are different.
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230
Has anyone tried mounting the battery tray and esc tray from a e3.0 to a conversion? Im assuming the chassis holes are different.
Not saying it can't be done but the 3.0 tray is very different and is retained by screws going into the chassis, not coming up from below. You might try it and find that where the screws need to go has been milled out and you don't have enough material for the threads. Only way to find out is get a 3.0 tray and test fit.
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:08 PM
  #19940  
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Originally Posted by ta_man
Not saying it can't be done but the 3.0 tray is very different and is retained by screws going into the chassis, not coming up from below. You might try it and find that where the screws need to go has been milled out and you don't have enough material for the threads. Only way to find out is get a 3.0 tray and test fit.
I was afraid of that

Hmmm...Do I want to try it

OT, does anyone know if the only difference between a 3.0 and a e3.0 is the slimmer chassis? Everything should bolt right up in terms of front and rear clips?
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:24 AM
  #19941  
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Got the conversion just about done. Anyone have issues with not being able to set the mesh right on the Losi e-conversion? Coming from a RTR(3.0) but I believe the arched shaped bracket that supports the motor can needs to be shaved slightly to allow the mesh to be proper.
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Old 03-28-2018, 07:20 AM
  #19942  
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230
Got the conversion just about done. Anyone have issues with not being able to set the mesh right on the Losi e-conversion? Coming from a RTR(3.0) but I believe the arched shaped bracket that supports the motor can needs to be shaved slightly to allow the mesh to be proper.
Ok so I was able to loosen up the little half bracket that cradles the motor can, then set mesh, then tightened the cradle back down. This is my first electric (always been a nitro guy) can anyone just let me know if This mesh is ok? TIA.

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Old 03-28-2018, 08:06 AM
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On my Losi 2.0 truggy that bracket caused the motor to be at an angle to the axis of the spur gear resulting in them self destructing (a Robinson pinion and Robinson extra wide spur). I removed the Losi support bracket and made a support for the back end of the motor out of Kydex. This serves the same purpose as the Losi part but was fit to exactly support the motor without messing up the gear mesh.

BTW, using those button head screws to hold the motor is about the worst thing you can do. They will dig into the aluminum and let the motor move around as the aluminum deforms. I've seen this before on a car I bought.
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Old 03-28-2018, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ta_man
On my Losi 2.0 truggy that bracket caused the motor to be at an angle to the axis of the spur gear resulting in them self destructing (a Robinson pinion and Robinson extra wide spur). I removed the Losi support bracket and made a support for the back end of the motor out of Kydex. This serves the same purpose as the Losi part but was fit to exactly support the motor without messing up the gear mesh.

BTW, using those button head screws to hold the motor is about the worst thing you can do. They will dig into the aluminum and let the motor move around as the aluminum deforms. I've seen this before on a car I bought.


You have a pic of that self made bracket?

What screws do you suggest I use then to hold the motor? those are the screws provided in the conversion kit.
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Old 03-28-2018, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230


You have a pic of that self made bracket?

What screws do you suggest I use then to hold the motor? those are the screws provided in the conversion kit.
It is not a bracket. It is just a boring flat piece of Kydex with the thickness adjusted to take up the space between the motor and the chassis at the back end of the motor. I drilled and tapped the chassis to screw the Kydex to the chassis. It could also be held with shoe goo (glue).

Button head screws may have come with the kit but they were not intended for attaching the motor to the adapter. Use flat head screws (of the correct thread size) just like the dozen or more places in the chassis where flat head screws are used in countersunk holes.
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Old 03-28-2018, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ta_man
It is not a bracket. It is just a boring flat piece of Kydex with the thickness adjusted to take up the space between the motor and the chassis at the back end of the motor. I drilled and tapped the chassis to screw the Kydex to the chassis. It could also be held with shoe goo (glue).

Button head screws may have come with the kit but they were not intended for attaching the motor to the adapter. Use flat head screws (of the correct thread size) just like the dozen or more places in the chassis where flat head screws are used in countersunk holes.
Thanks.

I couldn't understand for the life of me why a flat head screw wouldn't go there. I guess sometimes you just don't follow the instructions
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Old 03-28-2018, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230
Thanks.

I couldn't understand for the life of me why a flat head screw wouldn't go there. I guess sometimes you just don't follow the instructions
Other companies make motor mounts where socket head or button head can be used. Possibly earlier version of the motor adapter were different and Losi didn't update the instructions when they changed the adapter.

Another possibility is that they updated the instructions to match the 3.0E motor adapter (which is compatible with button head or socket screws) and didn't update the the motor adapter in the kit.
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Old 03-28-2018, 11:11 AM
  #19948  
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Originally Posted by ta_man
Other companies make motor mounts where socket head or button head can be used. Possibly earlier version of the motor adapter were different and Losi didn't update the instructions when they changed the adapter.

Another possibility is that they updated the instructions to match the 3.0E motor adapter (which is compatible with button head or socket screws) and didn't update the the motor adapter in the kit.
That too

But the mesh looks somewhat right?

I've read do the paper method for electric, don't do it, set by sight, etc. Im confused

And no loctite on pinion gear setscrew right?

Last edited by Evoking1230; 03-28-2018 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 03-29-2018, 03:07 PM
  #19949  
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Originally Posted by Evoking1230
That too

But the mesh looks somewhat right?

I've read do the paper method for electric, don't do it, set by sight, etc. Im confused

And no loctite on pinion gear setscrew right?
I can't tell your gear mesh from a picture.

I use two thicknesses of paper setting mesh on MOD1 gears.

I always use BLUE loctite on pinion gear set screws.
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:37 PM
  #19950  
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Originally Posted by ta_man
I can't tell your gear mesh from a picture.

I use two thicknesses of paper setting mesh on MOD1 gears.

I always use BLUE loctite on pinion gear set screws.
I'm going to do this since it came up more and more in recent replies.

So confused about the loctite. SO many say no, so many say yes
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