Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits. >

Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.

Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.

Reply

Old 04-11-2007, 04:58 PM
  #46  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,622
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

The neu is a higher quality motor and more effecient. They will both last a 20 minute main w/ 8k mah batteries and they will both thermal if they are geared wrong. If they are set up properly then you can expect to run 20 minutes w/out problems. These buggies will make your nitro 1/8th scale feal slow.
party_wagon is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2007, 05:24 PM
  #47  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 139
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Im a mega and plettenberg motor fan myself. Im not 100% partial though.. hehe
Scyan is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2007, 10:19 PM
  #48  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (79)
 
1armed1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 3,081
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

I had the pleasure of driving Dan's eh7 this winter.
The car was very quick and felt very nimble. It turned in very well for having even brake bias and jumped great.

As I replace parts and build a spares stock pile I will be building an electric Jammin buggy.

later
Dayton
1armed1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2007, 10:34 PM
  #49  
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
 
joeling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 1,304
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hi,

I have just stumbled upon this thread. I think BL converted buggy is starting to make some small headway into the main stream. Sooner rather later some big manufacturer will start to jump onto this segment.

I have made a small video of my conversion here :

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653818

In my opinion, a rather nice conversion will feature 4S lipo with appropriate motor for a 1/2 hour running time. I think glassdoctor's conversion of his Losi is a standard that many will aspire to. For myself, I face more challenges because I live in the tropics with ambient temperature of around low to mid 30's deg C. This sort of climate puts a big stress on the motor & especially the esc. It took 5 escs & a few motors to get to point where I had a stable system. In the end, I had to run 5S (higher voltage = lower current) with a milder motor to make things work.

In the meantime, I about to do a HV conversion using 8S lipo with the intention for 1/2 hr running too (i.e. good enough for racing). Here are some pics.

Regards,
Joe Ling
Attached Thumbnails Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-jbl01.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-jbl02.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-jbl03.jpg  
joeling is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2007, 10:42 PM
  #50  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
 
rdub202's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: TeamAcademy/MRC, MI
Posts: 2,359
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

just throwing some props in for dan. i made it out to one race at the washtenaw track he runs and has been referring to. and those buggies are nothing short of WILD.
rdub202 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2007, 11:04 PM
  #51  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,622
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Do you mean that the buggies hit 40 m.p.h. in under 2 seconds and top out at around 55 m.p.h? Yes, these buggies are wicked fast and a blast to drive. If you do not have one yet then i would recomend putting like a .32 sized modded engine in to your buggy and finding out how fast your buggy is. Imagine running with a 3.5 horsepowr engine for 30 minutes non stop w/out pit stops. Yeah, they go fast.
party_wagon is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 12:06 AM
  #52  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ca bay area
Posts: 113
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default

If you guys want to check it out, here is the conversion that I did. It was asked somewere how the mechanical brakes will work, and this is what I did. I got a 3 channel radio that has a mixing feature. This allows the 3rd channel to be mixed with the throttle channel and have independent adjustment. I put 500000 wt oil in the center diff and use one brake pad only. I don't race, so I don't know how it would do on the track, but I can say that it runs and brakes well for bashing.
Attached Thumbnails Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-2.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-3.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-4.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-5.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-6.jpg  

steve671 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 12:06 AM
  #53  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ca bay area
Posts: 113
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default

more
Attached Thumbnails Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-7.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-8.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-9.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-10.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-14.jpg  

steve671 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 12:14 AM
  #54  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ca bay area
Posts: 113
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default

more
Attached Thumbnails Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-15-2-.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-13.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-14.jpg  
steve671 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 07:25 AM
  #55  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
R40Victim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: N.W. FL___L.A.___Lower Alabama
Posts: 7,827
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

If you guys want to check it out, here is the conversion that I did. It was asked somewere how the mechanical brakes will work, and this is what I did. I got a 3 channel radio that has a mixing feature. This allows the 3rd channel to be mixed with the throttle channel and have independent adjustment. I put 500000 wt oil in the center diff and use one brake pad only. I don't race, so I don't know how it would do on the track, but I can say that it runs and brakes well for bashing.
What kind of performance do you get from that setup? Have you had any thermalling issues? What did it end up costing you to put it together? That's a really clean install, and I like that you were able to retain at least some mechanical braking.
R40Victim is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 08:19 AM
  #56  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,622
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

A conversion like that would run for something like this.
3s 8k mah true rc 10c lipo-$110 shipped.
rc-monster.com cr motor mount and a pinion-$75 shipped
mamba max-$130 shipped
A feigo 7l -$70.
If you make the jump to a 4s system then you need to drop another $50 for a better esc, another $20 on the motor, and another $120 on the battery due to the increased amp draw.
party_wagon is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 08:30 AM
  #57  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
glassdoctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,250
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Steve: Nice work on that conversion... might be the cleanest one I have seen that keeps the nitro brakes.

My Kyosho is much the same as your car but without the brakes... and the batteries tucked in behind the center diff.

Thanks for the props. I think my 8ight is the best pure performance conversion. It's not the most fancy and armor plated... but it's very light and simple and it just works, period. Several guys have driven it on different tracks and it brings huge smiles to everyone.....

But it's not "drag and drop" like the conversion kits being offered here... I like the looks of DJ's 8ight conversion.
glassdoctor is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 12:37 PM
  #58  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
captain america's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,568
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I love seeing all these different electric conversions; there truly are so many different configuration possibilities, and I tip my hat to those of you who are pioneering this endeavour.

One aspect that I notice most of all is that, while the electric motors and ESCs are all fairly universal in terms of their size and/or dimensional footprints, the same cannot be said for the power source (battery), which I feel is still very much the wild card in the electric equation. Some run two batteries, some just one. Some battery packs are rectangular, and some appear to be more of a "hump" configuration Some are long and thin, others are more square-ish. While they all do the job to a certain extent, the fact that they all have different physical dimensions, configurations and weight (anywhere from 10 to 24 ounces) creates a true logistical problem which, I feel, is truly the culprit which is hindering this class from moving foreward in an official capacity.

Towards the end of bettering the R/C hobby industry as a whole: bettering those who continue to buy and enjoy products in the R/C industry, creating a proper class of racing vehicles, and eventually benefitting the companies who produce and sell within the R/C industry, I feel that the battery issue needs to be addressed in a more official manner.

For instance, I would like to suggest approaching some of the more prominent lipo battery manufacturers, either individually or collectively, to see if a new or standard battery unit respecting certain set dimensions and weight can be created or agreed upon. I think that this basic step will help remove much of the ambiguity and inconsistency in the chassis configurations we are seeing now, will hopefully create a standard baseline for rules that can then be applied towards creating specific, organized racing categories, and eventually be useful to manufacturers in the industry who may want to capitalize on this potential new class, but are reluctant to do so, because there are no set rules, and trying to create a certain type of chassis for this purpose in an ever-fluctuating state could end up being very costly for them if there were to be a sudden shift towards a completely different configuration.

That having been said, it would also be nice if we could have a fixed goal of, say, 30 or 45 minutes of continuous run-time from a given battery, using a standard based on already existing motors and ESCs. That will definitely be useful in determining race length. Of course, input from battery manufacturers is critical here, and definitely welcome.

If anyone out in the forums reading this is doing so on behalf of an R/C manufacturer/retailer/distributor, now would be a good time to listen and hopefully participate.
captain america is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 02:20 PM
  #59  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,622
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

I think there should only be a few rules to it. Do not let one company w/ a certain configuration monopolize the market. Lipo cells are simply 2k mah 3.7 volt cells. They are assembled into configurations that give them the readings you know of. If you want to keep it as cheap as possible then here a few things that need to happen. First things first.
1-You must use the same size pack you qualified with to run your mains. This will keep people from using a 6 oz. pack to qualify and a 16 oz. pack to endure a 20 minute main.
2-If you set the pack size at a high capacity you do not need high C ratings on packs which means that you get packs which cost less money.
3-While the class is still in it's rough stages it is very dificult to define the class. For now anything with a chasis the right size and weight that can complete a 20 minute main should be allowed to race. Once the best setups that are readily available to the public become apearant the class guidelines can be more readily defined. If you want the class to grow at your local track then this is how you do it. Simply ask your track owner if you can run your electric 1/8th scale w/ the nitros. If he will allow you to then go and smoke them untill others start to show up. Be very friendly and teach people what it takes to bring a good 1/8th scale electric setup to the track. A feigo 7l and a 11.1 volt lipo is all you would realy need to run with nitros. If you want to smoke then then show up with a 4s setup.
party_wagon is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2007, 03:13 PM
  #60  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
captain america's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,568
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Hi Party Wagon.

I think that general rules can and should be established by anyone from an officially-sanctionned racing body, right down to a local track owner/operator. They can choose get as technical or simple as they see fit of course, but the point I was trying to make is that it's always a greater benifit if everyone (or at least most) are pulling in the same direction.

You said:
I think there should only be a few rules to it. Do not let one company w/ a certain configuration monopolize the market. Lipo cells are simply 2k mah 3.7 volt cells. They are assembled into configurations that give them the readings you know of. If you want to keep it as cheap as possible then here a few things that need to happen. First things first.
1-You must use the same size pack you qualified with to run your mains. This will keep people from using a 6 oz. pack to qualify and a 16 oz. pack to endure a 20 minute main.
2-If you set the pack size at a high capacity you do not need high C ratings on packs which means that you get packs which cost less money.


That works for me.

3-While the class is still in it's rough stages it is very dificult to define the class.

What's to prevent a group of us from deliberating and acting toward a common goal early on? I believe, being an entrepreneur myself, that it is the current vagueness of the situation that could deter major manufacturers from stepping into this arena. Granted, the cottage-industry can offer conversions for the time being, but if the category is to eventually flourish, then the support of the big boys will be paramount.

For now anything with a chasis the right size and weight that can complete a 20 minute main should be allowed to race. Once the best setups that are readily available to the public become apearant the class guidelines can be more readily defined.

Aaah, but that's just it, you see? The "best" setup using what type of battery? One setup might work very well with one type of chassis/battery size/configuration, like Steve's dual-pack setup above, but take that very same chassis and try to use a single pack battery, and the handling might go right out the window, or it may simply not fit.

With too many different configurations, it just breeds potential for conflict among racers dur to a lack of parity; some claiming their adversary had a distinct advantage from a 2 pack configuration, or some different setup, twin motors, etc. While the idea of having the BL buggies racing alongside the nitros is interesting, simply to prove that it can be done, I thing that it's sensible to assume that it may not be a good long-term goal, since I can easily see racers crying foul from either end, and it's hard enough to keep the kids civil with the current rules in nitro or electric

I think the whole point of this is NOT to necessarily get racers to defect from nitro, quite the contrary: the goal would be to get racers to expand their racing envelope, using a common, or quasi-common chassis with the majority of parts being interchangeable (suspension, shocks, towers, gears, etc) that could be a potential cost savings for the racer, AND the manufacturers. Everyone could stand to gain.

That's why I'd like to get the battery manufacturers in on this, to each explain to us what they can and cannot accomplish, and then take that info and try to lay-down some tangible guidelines. Granted, it's only natural to assume that manufacturers won't agree on EVERYTHING, but if we can at least get them to agree to some key fundamentals, we're that much closer.
captain america is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service