Cain

iTrader: (294)

How does everyone check for Chassis balance to know where to add weight?

Intotheblade

iTrader: (10)

I just depend on my guess and check and judgement really. But then again, that's why I'm nowhere near top drivers lol.

Kings Kid

iTrader: (35)

put the vehicle on my digital scales, then add loose weight until I have side to side balance.

satoch

That's how it's done....

SpeedBump57

You mean like this?

This is my 1/12th scale, it is balancing on two pins!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I got a tip in similar to the pin thing, just with fishing line I am going to try, will post back on how well it works.

mfishel

I didn't realize we were talking on-road here. This is an off-road forum. But since we are, it's an easy one. Find the center point of each wheel (you'll do front and back), then find the point on the chassis half way between these two points. Mark this spot, then put the car on a really flat and level surface (piece of glass good). Take an X-Acto blade and place it under the chassis at the center point and slowly lift the car. Watch the 2 tires as you lift, and the light side of the car will lift 1st. Move stuff around and repeat. Trial and error method, but effective. The best method is corner weights as was mentioned earlier.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

This will be for offroad.

SpeedBump57

Ya they were talking off-road but a cool pic none the less. I really don't think you could balance an off-road car. You could probably get it close but the fuel is going to mess it up. I guess you could do it with the tank half full. But as soon as the car got any kind of dirt or mud on it it would mess things up again so why bother?

mfishel

OK then. I would recommend the corner weight method. You will need 4 accurate scales to go one under each wheel. The surface you are working on must be PERFECTLY LEVEL or your readings will be meaningless. There are many possible set up tests that can be accomplished with this system. Obviously static balance being one. Once you have the pad set up, place your car on it and start to load up the suspension (simply push down on the battery strap with your finger) and note the readings. Now change something on the car like spring or damping rate and push down on it again. Note what it reads and think about what you just did. Generally a higher value will indicate that you have added grip to that corner of the car. If you can't afford 4 scales, you could do it with one, but you won't effectively be able to measure loading changes. You will need 3 boxes of the same height as your scale and again a level surface is critical. You will have to move the scale to each corner and take a reading one at a time.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks for everything guys. Not trying to get super duper exact here as this is for a 4wd electric offroad buggy, just didn't want to be way off either since I will be running lipos.

Manning

iTrader: (3)

I have a board with two screws sticking up. Does the same thing as the pins.

I don't get too crazy with balancing an off roader, but with something like a 4wd car with the battery down one side, you can be grossly off. I had to add close to 2 oz on the motor side of my XXX4 to get it close.

Randy Pike

I balance my 4wd. My Yokomo is only 2 grams off front to back and is dead nuts side to side.

Cain simply pick up a MIP tweak station. Gross amounts of shock preload will show you how far off the car is. If you built all your shocks to the EXACT same lengths and then measured the preload on each, set the car on the station and balance the weight.

MIP Station: $40

Cain

iTrader: (294)

well, the lipo thing is off, just will be doing regular cells for now. class I was planning to run them in is limited now to just roar rule cells. As I want to get this class going as much as possible, will just do regular packs to help out.

mattnin

iTrader: (44)

So what is better, the 4 scales method or the MIP tweak station? How hard is it to use the MIP tweak station with the 4WD buggy? Can you recommend good scales too? Thanks!