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Old 03-15-2007, 04:58 PM   #31
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Wink Servo's and Kyosho

Razor - I would recommend upgrading your throttle servo to the KO PDS 2367 ICS.
As for your concerns with the car. It may not seem as "flashy" or "showey" as other cars on the market, but the performance and consistencey of the vehicle are amazing. It is simply one of the easyist(sp) and most consistent cars to drive. Also if you have access to the sgrid PK (Paul King, Cody's dad) is on there in the Kyosho Forum all the time and he is the most helpful set-up guy you could ever need. Also if there is anything I can help you with possibly set-up wise or otherwise feel free to ask.

-Ryan
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Old 03-16-2007, 04:47 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRCRacer22
Razor - I would recommend upgrading your throttle servo to the KO PDS 2367 ICS.
As for your concerns with the car. It may not seem as "flashy" or "showey" as other cars on the market, but the performance and consistencey of the vehicle are amazing. It is simply one of the easyist(sp) and most consistent cars to drive. Also if you have access to the sgrid PK (Paul King, Cody's dad) is on there in the Kyosho Forum all the time and he is the most helpful set-up guy you could ever need. Also if there is anything I can help you with possibly set-up wise or otherwise feel free to ask.

-Ryan
No problem! Thanks for your help! Btw, i think its the pressure from the spring when the servo's at neutral positioning that's causing the gear strip...Got to readjust it now...
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Old 03-17-2007, 01:19 AM   #33
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Default sp2

hi i am just building my kit at the moment and am wanting to know how many shims thick and thin do i put in the diffs to space them out properly and to which side.Help would be appreciated
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Old 03-17-2007, 02:20 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhodd
hi i am just building my kit at the moment and am wanting to know how many shims thick and thin do i put in the diffs to space them out properly and to which side.Help would be appreciated

I put one thick and one thin shims on each side.
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Old 03-17-2007, 05:54 AM   #35
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Just do it like what they said in the instruction manual. It works well. Btw, the kyosho really shines on the track....Insanely fast and handles well...But a little too light...
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:12 AM   #36
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Just remember ,that when you are shimming the diff make sure it is located in the proper spot for consistant ring/pinion mesh and that you can't move the diff side to side at all,but still spin free.
What I do is this:
1. install the pinion gear and bearings first,be sure all is seated completely.
2. install the ring gear/diff and see what you will need for shims (all diffs and cases are different)
3. remove diff and shim ,checking back lash by feel ,you only need a tiny tiny bit ,but you do need it !!
4. after you think it is correct remove the diff and pinion and reinstall diff. can you move it at all as if you are tightening the gear mesh ? If so install more shim to the side it moves towards so it holds the diff snuggly against the gear side.
5. put everything back together and test mesh! If it is good you are done ,grease up your ring gear and install your diff housing to the chassis.
Repeat this for both front and rear and you will never ruin a diff gear again!

You may vaporize the spiders but not the ring and pinion
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Old 03-18-2007, 08:07 AM   #37
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Btw, it seems that most metal to metal parts need some form of loctiteing eh? I was running the buggy at a local track and realised that screws at moving parts like the front C hubs and the servo saver area fell out. Even the screws supporting the wing popped out....
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Old 04-06-2007, 05:06 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razer123
Btw, it seems that most metal to metal parts need some form of loctiteing eh? I was running the buggy at a local track and realised that screws at moving parts like the front C hubs and the servo saver area fell out. Even the screws supporting the wing popped out....
Loctite is a must with 1/8 scale cars. I use red loctite on the front knuckles and all screws under the chassis going into metal. It may take a heat gun to get them off but it's much better than a DNF thanks to a 5 cent screw falling out. I use blue loctite for any other metal to metal screws.
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Old 04-09-2007, 02:22 AM   #39
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Default cody king set-up

can someone post cody king set-up for sp2
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:20 AM   #40
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Front
-------
5000 diff oil
shock oil: Kyosho 700
white pistons (1.4)
dark blue SP2 springs
shock positions: middle hole in tower/inside on arm
22* caster block/camber link in middle hole
Short upper arm (IF-329) with long ball cup
L & A block
std sway bar/balls all the way out
arms well above level
steering in middle hole on ackerman plate
droop limited 1 full turn
-2* camber/2*toe out

Center
--------
7000 diff oil
48 tooth spur/14 tooth bell
3 shoe clutch - 2 carbon, 1 aluminum - 1.0 springs


Rear
------
Kyosho 1300 diff oil
shock oil: Kyosho 400
White pistons (1.4)
std rear sway bar/balls all the way out
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe
hubs 2/3 forward
camber link long and in lower hole (#6) on tower
shock positions: middle upper hole in tower/inside on arm
light blue SP1 springs
arms just above level
droop slightly limited
-2* camber
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Old 04-10-2007, 08:29 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icemandolmite
can someone post cody king set-up for sp2

This isn't for the SP2 that was sitting in the shop is it?
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Old 04-10-2007, 09:37 PM   #42
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yes it is i plan on giving the kcar a try

i'll see what happens
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:28 AM   #43
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does anybody know how long the rear shocks are on the ST-R? thanks
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:37 PM   #44
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Default Rear Shock

The Rear Shock Shaft is 66mm
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