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Old 03-08-2007, 11:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee
Funny that you focus on the chassis braces. Kyosho makes them that way because they work. If you waste your money on the aftermarket ones and compare the two you'll say, "Gee, I just spent an extra $40 and it handles worse." The Kyosho braces allow the chassis to flex improving it's handling on rough tracks. Mugen Prospec drivers buy the stock plastic braces to replace the alloy ones for the same reason.

Any buggy will be fast on the street but not faster than a road car. The reason it flips when you turn is called "high center of gravity" and long suspension down travel. Compare how much travel difference there is between an off-road buggy and an on road racer. It's huge.

I'm not championing the Kyosho but they do make an excellent buggy that works in almost any track situation with the right set-up and driver.
Thanks for the clarification. For the flipping part, it seems that my mugen buggy on off road tires doesn't flip. Do you reckon tire grip factor has got to do with flipping?
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:17 PM   #17
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Default Purchasing mine

Every buggy seems to have their little imperfections. For example, the LOSI 8ight is fast and of good design. I myself was getting ready to order one. Then the friend of mine that had finished building his met me at the local track so I could watch him dial it in. We ran about a pint of fuel thru the 8ight before his steering servo went out causing a crash. No damage to the car other than the broken servo. He had another hitech torque servo fresh out of the box. That servo lasted three tanks. Come to find out there is a vibration issue causing the servos to break. There was a simple fix and he was back up and running.
Kyosho has always made a solid buggy. It is flexible allows customization. However, the guys on my track running the Kyosho enjoy them and never seem to have unexpected breakdowns because of a design problem. The car is solid and competitive. I myself have just put in my order for one. I still like my Jammin and will continue to use it as a backup, and I am going to focus on getting the kyosho up to speed. I like the way it jumps and lands. It seems well balanced and it is easy to tune. I like the weight and the way it is distributed. It is easy to clean and to fix when problems arise. As it is now on the Jammin I replace my bearings every gallon of fuel or before any major race. But this is just as easy on a Kyosho. For me it is just anther buggy with a good history.
I think this is more of a mental thing. Buy what makes you feel good. If you are not happy with your purchase you will not have the patience to properly tune your ride. Every buggy will need tuning and will take time to get dialed in. You need to find the weak areas and assure yourself you have the correct spare parts available. These things break, and will need to be fixed, make sure it is easy to repair and tune.

I did not buy the 8ight b/c of the mixture of metric and SAE parts.
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:36 PM   #18
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Thumbs up Axe Rossi Momba and Cobra

New engine and am sold. Just barrowed a friends Mamba and stuck it in my Jammin. I had a OS t-Spec and thought it was the end all be all engine. The Momba has loads of power and high RPM limit. I was flying faster than ever down the straight. I thought I could improve track times if I lowered my gear ratio. I could get more exceleration out of the turns and a better low end accel. Well this seemed to be the ticket. After a few more tuning laps I was able to get the timing down for this new piece of hardware. The engine was even tuned slightly rich. I am sold and ordered a Mamba for my Jammin and a Cobra or the new Kyosho WC I just ordered. I do not know much about these engines other than being impressed by their performance. Anyone, knowing anything about the AXE Rossi engine please pass along your thoughts. What is the life expectation? durability at the track? Someone told me they were on-road engines re-labeled for the off-road market. I do not know much about the company other than what is posted on their web site http://www.axemotor.it

Let me know your opinions.
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:02 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relay8039
New engine and am sold. Just barrowed a friends Mamba and stuck it in my Jammin. I had a OS t-Spec and thought it was the end all be all engine. The Momba has loads of power and high RPM limit. I was flying faster than ever down the straight. I thought I could improve track times if I lowered my gear ratio. I could get more exceleration out of the turns and a better low end accel. Well this seemed to be the ticket. After a few more tuning laps I was able to get the timing down for this new piece of hardware. The engine was even tuned slightly rich. I am sold and ordered a Mamba for my Jammin and a Cobra or the new Kyosho WC I just ordered. I do not know much about these engines other than being impressed by their performance. Anyone, knowing anything about the AXE Rossi engine please pass along your thoughts. What is the life expectation? durability at the track? Someone told me they were on-road engines re-labeled for the off-road market. I do not know much about the company other than what is posted on their web site http://www.axemotor.it

Let me know your opinions.
Axe Rossi is legendary! Their engines are FIRST RATE! I've heard of a guy who tried to purposely kill an LSK and he couldn't do it! He held the throttle wide open for over 2 minutes and it still just kept on revving strong. I personally know of two racers who ran Axe Rossi and one got 9 gallons and the other 12 gallons before they replaced the P/S.

You absolutely cannot go wrong with Axe Rossi! Top notch, high quality race engines.

BTW the Cobra makes stupid power!

regards

speed metal
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:46 AM   #20
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What sort of power band does it have ?


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Old 03-14-2007, 12:13 PM   #21
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Hmmm, well, I had my Kyosho for about two plus weeks already. Seems like a strong car to me. Easy to maintain and its amazingly fast. Only problem I had is the stripping of two throttle servo plastic gears in my KO PROPO PDS-2344 FET servo...I've already adjusted the EPA settings and brake linkages as well but still, the gear stripped... I'am beginning to wonder if it has to do with some fault in the car's design that is causing the servo gear to strip.....

Other than that, the car is pretty solid and handles well.
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:28 PM   #22
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are you talking about the servo insert. I myself and alot of others run aluminum horns with no insert
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by tony montana
are you talking about the servo insert. I myself and alot of others run aluminum horns with no insert
No, its the white plastic gear that is connected to the servo motor. The rest of the gears in my servos are all metal. But its always the white plastic one on the throttle servo that gives way...Its very irritating because I'll have to pull over and change one after a few hours of run....
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:15 PM   #24
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Stop running a plastic gear servo...
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Stop running a plastic gear servo...
Its a full metal gear servo. But the pinion gear is a plastic one. Its the same for all other brands like sanwa, futaba and JR....
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:54 AM   #26
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i've had my car for over a year and have not stripped a servo yet. Is your servo saver spring to tight?
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:43 AM   #27
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I killed 2 KO servos in my mbx5's a couple years ago, so I switched over to Futaba. Aside from the obvious of making sure your endpoints are correct, are the linkages or servo horn hitting anything or getting bound up somehow, is the carb lined up correctly for a smooth pull?
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:31 AM   #28
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I have over 8 galons on my WC and not a single thing has broken. It is as fast or faster than any car at our track. I suggest you try the cody king setup, you will really love your car with that setup.
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:31 AM   #29
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Its only the THROTTLE servo that's giving me problems...Other than that, the car's great. Runs well. In fact, this problem only persists when i do constant hard brakings and will set in after about 3 to 4 hours run time.
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Old 03-15-2007, 12:32 PM   #30
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They put that plastic gear in there so you don't burn the motor up (gear strips before servo motor goes). I would have to agree with the above posts. Something is binding it up, either your linkage or maybe one of your medal gears inside the servo is bound. Does the servo work OK when the linkage is off? I had a servo go on my Mugen and found out that my throttle return spring was putting to much pressure on the servo when at neutral. I adjusted it so it barley puts any pressure on the servo, then use a rubber band around the carb slide so the carb goes to full close when the servo is at neutral.
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