wyd

iTrader: (51)

Ok I will see you at the track.

GroffBall

iTrader: (10)

Paul's 4 gear starting setup is a great starting point. I only made a few changes for my track and its pretty well dialed. This new 4 gear is gonna be the ticket outside my car comes outta corners like a rocket now.

cpatel529

iTrader: (80)

What kind of changes would you suggest to make to Paul's 4 gear starting setup for a small indoor clay, rough track? I either run pather tires all around or the red scrubbed ribs up front and the red tapers in the rear. Also will be using AE shocks.

GroffBall

iTrader: (10)

I would just start with his setup and see what it needs. The car was very driveable with his setup the track I race on is different to say the least. Let us know how it works and I'm sure any of us can help get it dialed, but I would just start there.

cpatel529

iTrader: (80)

Thanks! I will hopefully getting my X6 built up soon (waiting on a lot of the parts to come in). I mounted by GTB in the middle and plan on mounting my lipos using the B44 trick that VOODOO did (very slick!). Since I dont have time to get a body painted, I just bought the Chris Long replica and will get the clear body painted in the future.

Is it recommended to run the 78 tooth or 81 tooth spur gear? I will be running a 10.5 orion and needed starting pinion gear suggestions. Once again, it is a small indoor clay track.

Was looking over the setup sheet and had a question. What does "2 turn ext" mean for the shock limiting (T/B)? I think it means something that is external to the shock on the shaft but I am not positive.

GroffBall

iTrader: (10)

I'm using the 81 tooth without issue, but I also have the BK2 axles so it spaces the bone in farther. Either one should be fine you might just have to dremel a bit off the dog bone. in the front you want to thread the shock end out a bit to make the shock longer. You don't want to limit it at all. Voodoo's battery setup is nice, but if your looking for something easier check out what I did a couple of pages back that uses the stock hold down and an extra body post. I would start at about a 23 pinion and see if its warm if not go up a tooth until it gets warm. You can gear the orions pretty hard compared to the other motors from what I've found.

YoungChazz

Writing from the pits at CRCRC.

On Paul's set-up, "2 turns ext" = 2 turns extended. That means put a drop of CA glue in the shock end, then screw it on the shaft so two threads still show at the top. That is, extend the shock shaft for more droop. You MUST use the BK2 axles for this.

Paul has been using his "4-Geat starting set-up" everywhere with only minor changes. That includes loose sandy outdoor tracks like the factory tracks race at Holly, Mich (video posted now) and the high-traction bald pink tapers with dope track here at CRCRC. Slight modifications from track to track, but the basic set-up is pretty well dialled in now for US tracks.

We give full credit to Brian for this set-up. He was instrumental in figuring it out and developing it. Since Paul was first to actually run it in a race, it got his name, but, believe me, it's at least as much BK as Paul.

sght4

I race stock buggy were I run, and right now I have a 81 tooth spur and 20 tooth pinion and after a 5 min. race my motor is allmost 200 degrees, what is a proper gearing for a small indoor track.

GroffBall

iTrader: (10)

drop another tooth and check temp again. motor should be under 200 degrees. Are you sure something isn't binding on your car that gearing seems awful low already. When I raced touring cars I like my stock motors coming off at about 150 that way I had a bit of room for error. But I havn't raced stock offroad buggy since RC10s were gold.

nutz4rcyktw

iTrader: (67)

Groffball is about where I am on temp on my previous B4 and XXX. I haven't run my new X6 yet.

Something else to consider are conditions. Where you run and the temperature, humidity, and type of track all have impact on temperature. Keep in my that soon we should see how the fan mounting holes that are now on the tranny and motor mount of the X6 are to be used. This would help with extreme conditions.

GroffBall

iTrader: (10)

another thing to consider is, it is possible to undergear a stock motor at least in touring car it was, so if the car feels really snappy but is still coming off hot you might be undergeared.


X-6s made a One Two finish last night at Bumps and Jumps R/C.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Groffball your car looked good. Maybe next time we can actually get a clean race together so we can actually shot it out on the track. You did a good job this weekend though. It wasn't your fault I was beat down like I was.

Are you running next weekend? Not sure if I can or not but I will if I can. I have a few more ideas to try from talking to a few others. My car was about 90% on Sunday is only off a piston change or oil in the rear because otherwise the car was money for me.

GroffBall

iTrader: (10)

I should be there next weekend. The scary part is if I had brakes I might have had something for Robert in the main. My car was good for low 19s on treads with breaks without brakes 20.0 was all I could muster. I hope to have a new motor for this weekend. I want to have jimmy order me a new orion because to me the feel of the orions is just better.

sght4

[QUOTE=GroffBall;4072408]drop another tooth and check temp again. motor should be under 200 degrees. Are you sure something isn't binding on your car that gearing seems awful low already. When I raced touring cars I like my stock motors coming off at about 150 that way I had a bit of room for error. But I havn't raced stock offroad buggy since RC10s were gold.[/QUOTE


I was going to try changing gearing this wed at practice, no nothing seems to be binding, I have the gear mesh set correct, I just thought I would see if any one had some info on stock gearing to save some time, the track is a small track with tight turns, we water between rounds so there is good traction, it is about 70 in the building, thanks for the help.

scrubnick

iTrader: (5)

I've been working with gearing on my X-6, at CRCRC I started at 19/78 with a CO27. After getting motored at the end of the straight I tried a 21/78. That was fast, but the motor smelled toasty afterwards. (though we run 7 minute races) I finally settled on 20/78. For a shorter race, the 21 would work, for tight tracks, definitely the 19, though.