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Old 02-26-2007, 11:24 PM   #46
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I think the lowest one I have as of now is a 19 tooth. If I get my batteries and my new charger this week I'll try the 22 out and take the 19 with me as well.
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Old 02-27-2007, 05:37 PM   #47
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Unless you are running on a very large track, that 22t will be way too big for a 5.5. I ran my XX4 with a 5.5 on a track with a 100' straight that did not have much in the way of tight turns. I started with the 84t spur (purple) with an 18t pinion and dropped to a 17t pinion. It was fast enough to outrun the 1/8th buggys in the straights, in lap times, and overall 5 minute runs.
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Old 02-27-2007, 08:18 PM   #48
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i run a 7.5 in my xx4. On a more open track i run an 18t pinion. On a small, tight track i run a 16t. Dont have a 17...or i would try that.
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:36 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smac
Unless you are running on a very large track, that 22t will be way too big for a 5.5. I ran my XX4 with a 5.5 on a track with a 100' straight that did not have much in the way of tight turns. I started with the 84t spur (purple) with an 18t pinion and dropped to a 17t pinion. It was fast enough to outrun the 1/8th buggys in the straights, in lap times, and overall 5 minute runs.

I'm not sure how long the straight is at this track I'll be running at, but now that you said it, when I was putting the motor in I do have the purple spur gear. I guess I'll throw the 19 tooth in and see what it'll do and if I don't like it I'll drop it down. THanks...
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Old 02-27-2007, 10:32 PM   #50
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I am running a set of crashback arms on my X-5 which has the same suspension design as the XX-4. These arms have proven to be very durable without changing any of the XX-4's excellent suspension geometry. Check it out!

http://www.iq-tuning.ch/en/crashback...15741996a31e0b
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:56 PM   #51
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I finally have everything for my XX-4 to run. I hooked up my battery and turned on the GTB. THe fan starts running, but that is it. I've tried doing the initial setup on it and it still won't do anything.

I'll leave the radio off
turn on the car
hold the button til all 4 LED's light up
select which profile I want

By the instructions, it should be ready after that. I look at the ESC and it looks like the red and yellow LED's are on.

Can anyone help me?
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:37 AM   #52
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Is the plug plugged into the receiver the correct way? I did this with a 125b esc and called the company saying I had problem programming the esc and planned on sending it back, until I went over everything and realized my mistake. I did this same thing recently with a gts esc, lights came on but nothing.
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Old 03-02-2007, 09:39 AM   #53
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You have to program the speed control. Read you instruction manuel on how to program it. It is real easy to follow.
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Old 03-02-2007, 10:18 AM   #54
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Depending on your reciever, you might have to swap pins in the connector going into the reciever from the esc. To program, turn your radio on, hold the program button down on the switch on the ESC and turn the car on. Once the light is solid red, let go and go full throttle, it wil turn green.....then go full brake until it blinks green. Then you are done.
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:00 AM   #55
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I'm just using my JR 125R reciever that came with my XXX-T truck. I've tried just about everthing. I'm gonna go up to the LHS and see if someone car figure it out.

Thanks....
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:02 PM   #56
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I drove my XX-4 for the first time lastnight and I love it. I threw around the idea of selling it, but I took it to the track lastnight and man this things handles great. There were a couple guys that was watching me run it and was very impressed with it. I let one drive and he was wanting to buy it off me.

I had it geared to high at first and the GTB shut down on me. I put a smaller pinion on it and that thing just got even more crazy. I'm hooked on some 4wd buggies now. Actually buggies in general. I ran my BK2 for the first time lastnight as well and loved it too.
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:11 PM   #57
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I'm not sure if this is gonna work or not, but I'm gonna attempt to post Travis Amezcua standard set up sheet....
Attached Files
File Type: pdf trav-06.pdf (214.7 KB, 91 views)
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:11 PM   #58
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WOOO HOOO!!!! It worked.
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:05 PM   #59
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Corey, what kind of track were you running on?

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Old 03-07-2007, 04:56 PM   #60
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Make shure that your Novak motor is not hitting on the chassis at the endbell. I had to dremel a little of the chassis out for it to clear.

Also make sure that when the motor is clamped in tight that you can not grab the motor and turn it, I had to shave the clamp slightly so that it would hold the motor tighter. Be carefull if you have to shave it, use a fine file and just take a little off at a time and recheck it...you don't want to take too much off.

I run on a medium to high bite clay track and I run a set up that is a little closer to the Steenari set up on the back of the Worlds addendum manual. On the front, my inner camber ball is in the 2 hole instead of the 1 hole. I also got rid of those inner shock springs that can get stuck inside of the shock cartridge and used a .090 spacer instead.
On the rear, my inner camber ball is in the 5.5 hole and the outer is in the B hole. The shocks are inside on the bottom and in the 2 hole at the top with a 1.5 spacer inside the shock and 1.4 spacer outside.

If you want to try something to make it turn a little harder, you can shave the top of the front caster blocks down where the ball stud mounts. I shaved mine down flush so that I was shure that I had both sides equal height and then added 2 of the Losi washers. This put them back up to a height that is about one washer thickness lower than stock.
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