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Old 04-08-2007, 08:32 PM   #76
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reviving an old thread........


glassdoctor......what's the latest on that 8ight conversion? we're waiting.

if no conversion is coming, at least provide us with a comprehensive list of what it takes to convert the 8ight and where to buy the parts/pieces at for a total conversion.


btw......while you're up on the driver's stand racing your brushless 8ight, do you make braaap braaaap braaaaaaap noises so the other drivers won't get jealous?
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Old 04-08-2007, 09:00 PM   #77
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I think both classes have their strong and weak spots. I like the clean, quiet electrics usually, since it is cheaper and the better drivers seem to stay with electric. There is new technology coming that will make 30 minute mains and low maintenance brushless the ticket, which will help alot!

Gas has longer races, which i'm not sure if more wear and tear and higher fuel expenses make it better, but the track time is fun. There is the noise, which adds to the realism, the strength of the parts and the racers mechanical ability can even the playing field considerably!

I have heard in the past that gas is cheaper, but anyone who does both knows better. Even some of the mags are guilty of promoting this propaganda, which we all know better. I see guys go thru a gallon of fuel in one weekend, plus clutch parts, bearings, glow plugs, more track time means more tires and wheels, etc., every weekend. Not to mention the amount of guys using $130 servos and spektrum systems, lipo receiver batteries, etc.

Gas is where the turnout is right now, especially trucks, but I see a trend back to electric after enough of the electric and factory gas/electric drivers make it tuff to come by wins.....That usually brings about class change time for most club racers. When the wins stop coming, at least once in a while, most either stop racing or change classes.


Just like everything else, it will get old after a while, doing the same thing weekend after weekend.
That is why I race a little of both, to break up the monotiny.

( jmo )
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Old 04-08-2007, 09:17 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
That is why I race a little of both, to break up the monotiny.
( jmo )
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Old 04-08-2007, 09:48 PM   #79
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Electric is my favorite...primarily because I don't have to troll the pits to find someone to pit for me, teach them how to work everything and get frustrated when they "F" it up 8 minutes into the 10 minute main .

It would be fun if I raced every week and had a set "PB" that knew how to work stuff...but it SUCKS blowing a race because they didn't get the lid closed or do a full tank at the pit stop...or go "out" 1 hour when you said "GO IN 1 HOUR!" after the warm-up...BTDT on all three...a few times.

Electric it is for me.
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:30 PM   #80
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if you want to race go with the one that has the most in your area. if for bashing get whichever you like. both require cleaning checking of bearings ect ect...one requires 30 bucks a gallon of fuel the other requires $25 and up packs. if you spend 100 bucks on an electrics servo count on more for gas as the cars are generally heavier (need more torque.) and it will need 2 but no esc. alot of variables to go by though ask your local racers and hobby shop, if they cant show you what it takes to get what you want find someone who will. both can be as expensive or as cheap as you like. everyone will/can have a different tastes and when you buy a nitro and learn you should have bought electric (vice versa) it can be disheartening so try to get see as much hands on as you can
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:36 PM   #81
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I just run electric with the gas guys. I know I may just be an oddball, but our local track doesn't really care and the gas guys never complain. I may be faster here or there, but it's hard to get an electric car to make it 10 minutes against heavier cars, so it's not like it's an unfair advantage...they usually just break/crash me at some point.

I do look damn good for 6-7 minutes though...LOL...no pit drama, just set it down and go. Just got an MF2 and a 7700 Mamba...it should be ugly.

I can't wait for the first electric 1/8th scale.
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Old 04-09-2007, 04:42 AM   #82
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if your just bashing, i'd reccomend nitro, as when you bash electric and you havnt got access to a charger, you are stuffed when your packs are falt, whereas with nitro you run until you break something or you use up all the fuel you brought.

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.....and don't forget that al gore says that we should be cutting back on exhaust emissions too. we need more eco friendly racing.
Dont worry, the Methanol in Nitromethanol burns clean
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:06 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by party_wagon
At the moment nitro is better. It is cheaper to be competitive, you can run longer, it requires less maintance, the cars are more durable. Do I need to keep going?
Now, here is the grey area. If electric continues to make a push towards brushless lipo then I would never go back to nitro. You would be able to be fast for less money, less maintance, and cheaper cars. Let's do a quick comparrison of the 3 fields I listed above w/ the same roller.
We can do 1/10 mod truck.
current setup-
esc,motor=$200
4 batteries=$250
discharger=$100
charger=$200
power suply=$75
servo=$100
lathe=$175
Now, if you add this up you come out with around $1100
then once a week-engine rebuild $10
once a season new batteries & engine $300
so you are looking at around $400 a year in maintanance for the running equipment.

1/10th nitro truck
engine-$200
charger-$75
hump pack-$25
two servos-$150
differance in roller values-$100
starter box & batteries$150
glow plug igniter $25

This comes out to around $725
Then, once a year new engine & 10 gallons in fuel.
$400

now, brushless lipo
esc/motor
$200
charger/power suply $175
$servo $100
two lipos $160
This comes out to around $725
maintance
once every two years pick up two new lipos for $160.

Simply put. To purchase your hard wear and keep it running for 5 years it would look something like this.
around $3100 spent on mod electric
nitro truck $2725
lipo/brushless $1125

That is around the cost of purchasing top of the line hard wear and running it for $5 years. Yeah, there are still bearings and such every so often. However, lipo/brushless is head over hills cheaper. Not to mention that when you charge lipos at 8 amps you can virtualy run two packs non stop an entire afternoon. They will charge at 8 amps for about 90-95% of the charge proces then slow down. You 35 amp discharge at a 90% effeciency is eating up much less then that which means that you are running for around 30 minutes and charging for around 30-40 minutes. You can count me in on that.
Excellent post and I could not have stated it better with the li-po brushless the wave of the future and is a very fast growing class here in the Carolinas with the 20 minute main Pro Trucks.

Getting ready to offer a Pro Truck Class Starter combo kit for under $700 that will hopefully include:

Truck Kit: Associated Factory Team T-4 or Losi XXX-T MF2
ESC and Motor: Novak GTB ESC with a Velociti 5.5 brushless motor
Battery: 8000 mah 7.4 volt li-po battery pack
Charger: Duratrax ICE
Steering Servo: Good Quality metal geared servo

All you have to do is add your favorite reciever and radio to this package to hit the track for some 30+/- minute runtimes, no pit man, no tuning, no comms to cut, no brushes to replace, no messy fuel everywhere, no clutch shoes to replace, no starter box, no ignitor, no glow plugs constantly going bad, no flame outs, no starter box shuffles and you can race inside with all the windows and doors closed anytime of the year.!

Stay tuned!

The future is here with Brushless and Li-pos!!!!
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:29 AM   #84
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Hey Craps,

you guys need to stop making those 5 second pit stops for your electric/nitro races. Just keep going and let the nitro guys make their pit stops. Thats one of the reasons everybody says they like nitro, because they get to keep running. You guys need to show people the advantage of electric over nitro and run without pit stops or a second person in the pits. Stop letting the nitro guys take away your advantage. You guys need to make a quick change battery system and start running 40 minutes if your gonna make pit stops anyways.
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:36 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrubb
Hey Craps,

you guys need to stop making those 5 second pit stops for your electric/nitro races. Just keep going and let the nitro guys make their pit stops. Thats one of the reasons everybody says they like nitro, because they get to keep running. You guys need to show people the advantage of electric over nitro and run without pit stops or a second person in the pits. Stop letting the nitro guys take away your advantage.
2 weeks ago we had 1 gas truck in the "A" main and we all agreed to make it fair by making 2 pit stops like he had to do because they're was a day when they out numbered us in the class and it is sort of like returning the favor and besides I don't want to beat nobody like that. Needless to say the gas truck finished just ahead of me and if I had not stopped the 2 times I did I would have beaten the gas truck, but I wanted to be fair because I am in this great hobby for the FUN of it that alot of people forget what it is all about.

FUN is what it is all about!
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:20 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
I think both classes have their strong and weak spots. I like the clean, quiet electrics usually, since it is cheaper and the better drivers seem to stay with electric. There is new technology coming that will make 30 minute mains and low maintenance brushless the ticket, which will help alot!

Gas has longer races, which i'm not sure if more wear and tear and higher fuel expenses make it better, but the track time is fun. There is the noise, which adds to the realism, the strength of the parts and the racers mechanical ability can even the playing field considerably!

I have heard in the past that gas is cheaper, but anyone who does both knows better. Even some of the mags are guilty of promoting this propaganda, which we all know better. I see guys go thru a gallon of fuel in one weekend, plus clutch parts, bearings, glow plugs, more track time means more tires and wheels, etc., every weekend. Not to mention the amount of guys using $130 servos and spektrum systems, lipo receiver batteries, etc.
I had the same experience. Nitrro is considerably more expensive than electric if you race competitively. You get to drive more though, which made it worth it. I am an average to above average driver so I rarely broke any big expensive car parts. I ran a budget O.S. .21 RG for ages because it was fast enough for my track. Nitro was still more expensive. It's just those little expenses like you stated above that chip away at the wallet.

30 minute mains in electric is something I doubt I'll see soon. There is a LOT of resistance locally for long race days. That's one thing that makes electric worse than gas, you can hear the whiners because there is no noise hehe.
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:30 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rysuleod
30 minute mains in electric is something I doubt I'll see soon. There is a LOT of resistance locally for long race days. That's one thing that makes electric worse than gas, you can hear the whiners because there is no noise hehe.
I have to agree that the hardcore Electric guys who think nickel batteries and brushed motors should be the only thing allowed forever are the biggest and most pickest whinners at the track. They whine about everything from the jumps are too big or the they are too small or the track is too wet or it is too dry or it is not fair he is using a li-po or brushless, etc etc. Thank god that crowd is shrinking and the new li-po brushless racers are starting to grow!!!!

Come on out to the Carolinas and we will show you a bunch of electrics that love 20 minute mains and even our "B" mains are 10 to 15 minutes long with 2 bump ups.
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:11 AM   #88
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If you guys want to convert an 1/8th scale buggy to electric most electric motors can be mounted with nothing but a hacked up e-maxx motor mount. All you have to do is mount it over the center diffs outdrive and most of the time there are already two pre-threaded holes already in place from the brake assembly or some other part that was attached to the side of the diff casing. All you have to do is make sure two screw holes line up, if they don't then drill them. Then just mount it to the center diff casing. This way you don't have to worry about pinion mesh or anything like that due to chasis flex or ect. Here is a link to several motor mounts for various other 1/8th scales as well.
http://rc-monster.com/
finedesignrc.com
The biggest issue is to make sure you have a good pinion/spur w/ proper mesh and pitch so that they will last a while.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:20 AM   #89
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I still like Electric more then gas, but I do like 1/10 scall gas truck thats becase I like to race 1/10 Electric and the orther reason too is that 1/10 scall is a little cheaper then 1/8 scalls.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:33 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi09
I still like Electric more then gas, but I do like 1/10 scall gas truck thats becase I like to race 1/10 Electric and the orther reason too is that 1/10 scall is a little cheaper then 1/8 scalls.
From what I've seen at the track 1/10th scales are more expensive. They are always breaking.
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