Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Hot Bodies Cyclone D4 EP buggy >

Hot Bodies Cyclone D4 EP buggy

Hot Bodies Cyclone D4 EP buggy

Old 07-19-2007, 11:10 PM
  #181  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
 
Boadazofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pro4_racer
hmm, so D4 is 500 AUD retail? i wonder if getting one for 250 AUD from aus is a good deal (brand new that is, hehe)?
thats an awesome deal got anymore!!!

Anyone in adelaide got a d4 besides me?
Boadazofa is offline  
Old 07-21-2007, 06:24 AM
  #182  
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
 
mharlow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

I installed the new D4 Diff bolts in to my car today. All I can say is you won't have to worry about buying associated or yokomo bolts now. These bolts are great the diffs are super smooth and can now adjust them from the outside. Won't be able to give it a try until next weekend so I'll let you all know how it goes.
mharlow is offline  
Old 07-23-2007, 02:35 AM
  #183  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
 
Boadazofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Just wondering which diff bolt people have been breaking? I myself have only broken the 1 rear std bolt. Have replaced with ae bolt. Has anyone broken the front one?
Boadazofa is offline  
Old 07-23-2007, 04:22 AM
  #184  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
GymBeam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Losi|Novak|MuchMore
Posts: 434
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

anyone here have excessive wear on thier CVA's? the pin on the axle end is 40% worn only after a handfull of meets.

is their a rebuilt kit available seperatly?
GymBeam is offline  
Old 07-23-2007, 05:41 AM
  #185  
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
 
mharlow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by GymBeam
anyone here have excessive wear on thier CVA's? the pin on the axle end is 40% worn only after a handfull of meets.

is their a rebuilt kit available seperatly?
Mine started to wear pretty quickly but has not got a lot worse since the first couple of weeks. The rebuild kit part no is 75188.
mharlow is offline  
Old 07-23-2007, 05:44 AM
  #186  
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
 
mharlow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Boadazofa
Just wondering which diff bolt people have been breaking? I myself have only broken the 1 rear std bolt. Have replaced with ae bolt. Has anyone broken the front one?
We have had front a rear break with both associated and HPI bolts. I feel alot of the problem is the spring and thrust washers rather than the bolt. The thrust washers seem soft compared to other ones and the spring does not seem to be as square as the AE ones.
mharlow is offline  
Old 07-24-2007, 10:13 AM
  #187  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,279
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pro4_racer
hmm, so D4 is 500 AUD retail? i wonder if getting one for 250 AUD from aus is a good deal (brand new that is, hehe)?
parts only !
RC MARKET is offline  
Old 07-24-2007, 07:23 PM
  #188  
Tech Rookie
 
RCRookie_KR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 9
Default HB BUGGY BLOG

HB BUGGY BLOG is updated!
http://hbbuggy-blog.com/
RCRookie_KR is offline  
Old 07-25-2007, 12:48 AM
  #189  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
 
Boadazofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I just check out the blog, but my japanese isnt to well at the moment. There is a picture of the new diff bolt and nut setup but it is different to the manual. they put the diff nut and spring on one side and the thurst bearing on the other. The manual shows to do it with the thrust bearing and spring on one side and the nut on the other. If you dont undersand compare the pic in the blog (post above) to the one in the manual. I am now confused as to what is the correct way can anyone enlighten me or does anyone read japanese?
Boadazofa is offline  
Old 07-25-2007, 12:51 AM
  #190  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
 
Boadazofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

dont worry i have work out what is going on now!
Boadazofa is offline  
Old 07-25-2007, 01:25 AM
  #191  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
 
ben73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,759
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

use alta vista to translate it.

the reason the bolt is moved to the other side is to address the diff bolts breaking.

HB have gone to a more std style of setup now leaving the nut and spring on one side and having the thrust and bolt enter from the opposite side.

seems to have solved the bolt breaking issue.
ben73 is offline  
Old 07-25-2007, 02:26 AM
  #192  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
A Ilievski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: A.C.T (Australia)
Posts: 2,720
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Bit of a noobish question here but this is my 1st time going offroad. When i built the D4 shocks i used 40w all round. I wanted to change to 35f 30r.

Now when i went to unscrew the shock cap and o-ring adaptor, i could unscrew the shock cap but not the o-ring adaptor. How the hell can i get it off?

Dont wana try with pliers because it will scratch the thread on the shock.

Any ideas??

Was i not ment to tighten o-ring adaptor alot?

thanks
A Ilievski is offline  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:55 AM
  #193  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: East Atl Metro Area
Posts: 4,558
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I just noticed that the D4 is not listed on the hotbodies site.

Any vendors have them in stock? I can't find one.
Rfury is offline  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:12 PM
  #194  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
 
Boadazofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kid TT-01
Bit of a noobish question here but this is my 1st time going offroad. When i built the D4 shocks i used 40w all round. I wanted to change to 35f 30r.

Now when i went to unscrew the shock cap and o-ring adaptor, i could unscrew the shock cap but not the o-ring adaptor. How the hell can i get it off?

Dont wana try with pliers because it will scratch the thread on the shock.

Any ideas??

Was i not ment to tighten o-ring adaptor alot?

thanks
i used a pair of multi grips so they can be adjusted to the diameter of the shock. if your worried about scratching them wrap them in tape that will stop the scratching but do not hold them to tight otherwise you will make the shock out of round. I myself had a bit of trouble building the shocks and in the end i didn't follow the manual because the manual tells you to bleed them out of the o ring adapter, i ended up bleeding the air out through the shock cap work so much better for me. i went through about 6 o rings on the oring adapter trying to do it the way the manual said to do.

hope this helps!
Boadazofa is offline  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:14 PM
  #195  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
 
Boadazofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rfury
I just noticed that the D4 is not listed on the hotbodies site.

Any vendors have them in stock? I can't find one.

if ya in adelaide rchobbyzone has them! you can get his number from his website www.rchobbyzone.com.au or frontline hobbies i believe has them aswell
Boadazofa is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.