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Old 01-27-2007, 06:32 PM   #1
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Default break in help

hey guys, i am on my first tank of breaking in my new p7. it is idling great, but there is not a lot of smoke and fuel spitting out of the exhaust. i tried richening the low speed needle, but it wont turn. also, i tempd the engine at 120 while idling, is that okay? thanks
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Old 01-27-2007, 07:00 PM   #2
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You should be turning the high needle to richen the fuel mixture but it sounds by the temps that your already running to rich. The temps after a tank of gas should be in the 200's .
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:11 PM   #3
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damn. do you think it would be okay, if it only stayed that cool for 2.5 tanks? tomorrow, should i idle it still, or actually drive the car? thanks
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:21 PM   #4
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drive it carefuly around with the body off, so you get as much air over the motor as you can. pull trigger to full power very gently and as soon as it revs up back of all the way and do that for three tanks. around fourth and fifth tank start to tune it a bit. then go body on and start running it a bit harder but stay full throttle very long at all. after about 8 tanks really tune and run it.
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:24 PM   #5
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thanks. do you think that my idling temps were too low? do you think it could have messed up the rod? also, when i do the other tanks like you said, how hot should the engine be getting? thanks
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:29 PM   #6
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no your ok. for the nest three tanks stay under 210 but above 185. just make sure to run motor to the high end so that the whole sleeve and piston break in also. if you only idle a motor to break it in, it wont break in through the whole stroke. then you go and run it hard and it locks up!! just dont stay in throttle as i said. its better that your temps were low at first to make sure that the rod connection to the crank gets oiled really well before you really begin running it.
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:35 PM   #7
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ok great. thats really good news. thanks a lot. how mnay tanks does it usually take for an engine to be fully broken in? thanks also, do you know which glow plug i should use for this engine? thanks
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:40 PM   #8
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i have a rossi p5 motor and to really get it all the way it was almost a gallon, but babied it alot. the track i run on has 145' straight and it didn't want it hurt. i am all about reliability. comes from me racing motorcycles, i desert race so reliability and longevity is key for me. don't forget to listen in live to the supercross. i started a new thread to tell people how to listen.
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:47 PM   #9
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after three more tanks of light running, do you think that i should start leaning the engine out? would i be able to race the engine at about the half gallon mark? thanks
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:51 PM   #10
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yes you can race it at half gallon. just keep it a bit rich so when your racing and get all pumped up you wont hurt it top end. run it at like 195 to 205.
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:15 PM   #11
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ok great. thanks. also, how would i know when the engine is fully broken in? thanks
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Old 01-28-2007, 11:28 AM   #12
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To break in a motor heat it up with a heat gun until it gets to 220 then fire it up. Let it idle for one tank and then start driving it with the body off but keep the temp up to 220 by putting aluminum foil around the head. Drive it around in a big circle for about 30 to 45 minutes. Just bring it in and fuel it and check the temp about every five minutes. After this breakin method just let the motor cool and you can start to tune it for performance. This method has always worked the best for me. I have a rb ws7 that has 10 gallons on it and it is still running strong. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 01-28-2007, 04:25 PM   #13
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Heffer,
There are a some things to make sure of.
1. Always run the engine at 200+ degrees. Get it their right away. If you have to cover the head then so be it.
2. Never, Never bring the engine up on the pipe (to max RPM) on the first 3 tanks of fuel. Your rod, crank and wrist pin are not ready for it.
3. After it will hold temp at 200+ then you adjust your low needle and idle settings.
4. Just drive the car. Don't drive off road. Keep some tires handy for break in that you can run in the parking lot. This way you do not stress the engine when it is mechanically tight.
5. If it is cool then lean it out. Take your throttle input up to just before it gets on the pipe and set your high needle so the motor will hit 200 degrees with short burst of the throttle.
6. You do not have to let the motor cool before it is broken in to a certain point. It is not about fuel, it is about quality run time at 200 degrees where the engine was designed to run. Once it will hold the same temp for 4 - 5 minutes of good running and you have it tuned to idle correctly, you can shut the engine off.
7. The heat gun is your friend. Most engine wear comes from starting a cold engine.
8. Always - Always make sure the engine is stopped and cooled with the piston NOT at Top Dead Center. It will kill a motor's life span.

A perfect break in will result in you starting the engine one time, running at 200 + degrees, getting your idle set, watching the motor change and then hold the temp at 200 + as you drive it a little more agressivly each time you fill her up. Then you kill the motor the first time. Usually this is after 4 - 6 tanks depending on how hard you run it. Thermal cycle (up to 200 + then back to room temp) 3 to 4 times at one tank each time then head to the track.
You are ready to race tune and the parts will be lapped in correctly at the temps the manufacturers designed the engine to run it at. At first you will lean it out quite a bit. Then, as it loosens up you will richen it to keep it cool.
When you don't have to richen it up any more for it to stay stable, you are 90% there.

It is all about metals and how they work.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:26 PM   #14
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thanks tex. so you think i should lean out my high speed needle? it takes a while for it to get up to 200.
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Old 01-29-2007, 03:20 AM   #15
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Yes.
When you run it the first minute or so it is more important to get to 200 than to let it just sit idle. The reason is the disimilar metals each have their own expansion and shrink characteristics within a motor. If they are not to the designed temp (usually 200 - 260) you will just wear out what is not expanded to its correct size yet.
Don't be afraid to turn the needle. You should be running at low RPM only for the first 3 tanks.
For the next tank give it a little pipe action. With each tank you should be richening it up to keep the temp down as you are increasing your throttle inputs and driving it a little harder. You will hear and feel the motor break in. Finally it will stabilize for 5 minute run intervals, have a little smoke coming out of the corners and idle like a champ.
Let us know how it goes.
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