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Old 01-18-2007, 08:00 PM   #1
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Default When tweaking a car...

...where do you start first? For example lets say you have the proper tires that is working at the track, ok but now your car still doesnt feel right.

As a hypothetical situation lets say that it steers fine, maybe a slight push, yet the forward bite coming out of the turn could be better.

Where do you start? Shocks? Springs? What components do you mess with first I guess is my question.

Oh yeah this isnt my car or anything, I actually have a nice setup for my track thanks to one of the local fast guys, but I still need to be able to learn how to diagnose (well I can do that) and where to start.

Ok my answer to the situation would be something like, changing the shock location to a more outward position on both top and bottom (each out one) and see what that did. Is that correct? The reason I say that is because I am going to guess a wider standing suspension would stabilize the car coming out of the turns and off jumps.
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:51 PM   #2
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The things I look for are Camber adjustments. I run Toe out in front. It will help with mid turn and exiting corners better. Look for any damage after runnin my 4 wheel. Tires usually dictate on how the track conditions are. For example if the track were freshly done and a little damp then go with Red X's or holeshots. If it were dry and blue grooved then use a Fuzzy square, Pink Taper Pin or Pink X's. As far as foam Trinity Bomb 1 foam for Pinks and Red's Proline 2-Stage foam. In the front 2 rib with stock foam generally works real well with both compund tires. Check your shocks to see if you have air in the shock body by compressing them. If they feel loose I would change the shock rings as well and reinstall fresh shock oil.
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:52 PM   #3
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What vehicle are you running as well?
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXCRRacer
What vehicle are you running as well?
XXX-CR just like my sig.

I run 0 toe and -1 all around
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:57 PM   #5
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In my CR I ran in front suspension, Green Springs with 57 Black Pistons and 25 weight shock oil. I had toe out and a little negative camber. In the rear I ran Pink Springs with originally 56 red piston, but drilled to 5-6-6 with 27.5 shock oil. Just run about 0.5 camber in the rear.
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:08 PM   #6
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I guess dropping the rear camber would stabilize it a little bit as well.
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:22 PM   #7
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Default It's good to ask questions...

It's also good to read. Check out these links, they have to be the most detailed guides out there.

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...andling.1.html
With this link you will need to change the end of the address manually. Handling.2.html, Handling.3.html and so on. Goes up to 8

Then when people make suggestions, you can try to learn why they do what they do. Take it from someone who has alot to learn.
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:52 PM   #8
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Default

Wait...your running 1* toe in the rear? Thats not enough, for offroad I would never run anything less than 3* toe in.

Anyhow, to answer your question. The first things I always look at when dialing in a car are the dampening, the springs, and the weight distribution. I personally feel that these are by far the 3 biggest factors in handling for your car on any track. Usually the stock setup as far as shocks angles, toe, camber, anti-squat, etc are normally pretty close.

First I will look at the balance of the car, is it over or under steering? Then move the battery accordingly to correct the condition. Second I will look at how the car handles the track, now obviously for different track types the adjustments will vary a lot. Since I usually run on rough tracks with pretty big jumps I'll look at how the car is handling the bumps, if it bounces a lot I'll go a bit softer on the shock oil, if it has no problems at all with the bumps then I'll either leave it or go higher with the oil to lessen bottoming on big jumps. I've never really had many issues with the suspension being far to soft on any of my cars for the jumps, but if it is goto a shock piston with a smaller hole and a bit lighter oil (this will make dampening on jumps harder, but still absorb smaller bumps ok, the dampening on the bench should feel the same, until you drop the car).

For springs usually you can go one step up harder for higher grip tracks, and mabye one step lower for low grip track (compared to the stock springs). The springs are also a good way to tune the balance of the car, for its bias towards front or rear grip.

After that I'll adjust camber, then shock angles, then the ride height. Thats my basic process for tuning an electric car. I really find myself playing with the battery posistion the most probably, it really just affects the whole car so much.
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:58 PM   #9
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Sorry I meant 0 front toe and 3 rear with -1 camber all around

So you dont mess with the camber locations or number of washers?

Whoa something I just checked on my XXX, the hub screw that the wheels mount to had some majob slop in there, what would that do to the car? I tightened up the nut but I was like whoa!
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Last edited by K_King; 01-18-2007 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:12 AM   #10
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Loose stuff will just make the handling erractic/inconsistant. I personally don't mess with roll centres much, but I might try it a bit more this year. From what I've found it doesn't make to much of a difference on a loose track since there isn't much weight transfer, and the tires contact patch is more consistant.
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:38 AM   #11
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first i s am all in with wheelnut. howevrer rool center is kinda important i have found. the best diagnosis for any and all track conditions is the xxx main book. yes it was designed for on-road but the same things apply to off-road.
read it three times. read ir six times if you have been out having fun then go to sleep and read it again then work on your cars/trucks or whatever.
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