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Old 01-30-2002, 10:04 PM   #181
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I was running-
FRONT: 30wt oil, 57, camberlink 3-b 1 washer, silver spring, shock position 2-inside w/ .090 limiter inside shock, spindle height sitting low, 1/4 oz weight in bulkhead, camber 1 deg, 0 toe in, ride height arms level, M3 pro line 4 rib lp

REAR: 40wt oil, 56, camberlink 2-b, regular plastic hub carrier, shock position 2-inside, yellow spring, no limiters, hubs centered, camber - 1 deg, ride height bones level, wing forward, red taper pins

That should be it
But now I'mm gonna try Todd Hodges std. setup this friday. If I dont' like it I'll try yours. Your track sounds alot like ours. Thanks for the help
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Old 01-31-2002, 08:48 AM   #182
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Yoshi- The setup you are running isn't far off but it seems to be over dampened for my taste. It is just personal opinion but I have never liked yellow rear springs, especially on the inside hole on the arm. The biggest thing is to try the outside hole on the rear arm with much less dampening and more spring. I normally run 25 56 on the outside hole, sometimes 22.5 56. If I move to the inside hole I will drop to 57 pistons and keep the same oil or go up 5 - 7.5 weight. 40-56 is a bit thick for any condition.

Hint's to try:

#1 Lose the weight in the bulkhead. Weight makes the car less agressive contrary to what most people think. Weight may help the car steer at low speed but the extra momentum that it adds to the front of the car slows the cars reaction down. It goes back to basic laws of physics. The heavier the front of the car is the more force it will take to make it change direction. The added weight doesn't increase traction enough to offset the added inertia of the weight.

#2 Try my tire setup including inserts, it may not work for you but it is worth a shot. Make sure the tires are broken in properly. Pink compound tires do not work well when new. They must be run a few times or dremeled on and then run before they start to come in. I have never gotten M3 anything to feel right on this car. The only track I have run red compound tires at was the Tiltyard and that track was polished slick.

A few other questions for you:
#1: What type of drive shaft (Stock, CVD, Steel, Alu.)?
#2: Battery placement?
#3: What do you feel the car is doing wrong now?
How does it enter the corner?
How does it exit the corner?
Does it have good mid corner speed?
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Old 01-31-2002, 10:16 AM   #183
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007yoshi - I agree with SkipGear you car looks way over damped. Even with running on the inside hole on the rear. However I do like yellow springs in some conditions. Pink is my favorite. Skip's setup is very good. However if your just into trying different stuff you might try 35-55 dampening in the front with 2/middle shock location. I like that alot at different places.

By the way I run on a very high bite track. I've tried a setup very similar to yours. The thought was try to get the car to stay very flat though the turns with heavier dampening, sway bars and outside shock postitions on the arms. While the car was very easy to drive it wasn't as fast in the tighter sections of the track and it hurt my laptimes. It's been my experience with this car that the stiffer it gets the easier it is to drive but overall laptimes may not be as fast. I believe LaDow and I was talking about this one day.

Good luck!

Last edited by Jared Kirkwood; 01-31-2002 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 01-31-2002, 10:21 PM   #184
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That one setup I had worked great until the track layout changed, and the track was too bumpy for the rear end. It wanted to hop around, and after trying different settings they never worked. I've always used M3 fronts and losi red rear tires for almost a year now, it always suited that one stup. But now I at least wanna try Todd Hodges setup since I put it on wednesday night, and the fast guys here run it. But I'll give yours a try if im not pleased w/ the other.

Thanks for yalls help
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Old 02-06-2002, 02:56 AM   #185
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What is this chassis?

Anyone recognize this chassis? If so what is it? (Sorry for the poor picture, a friend ppicked it up at a car boot sale but doesnt know what it is!!)
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Old 02-06-2002, 01:09 PM   #186
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The chassis on the left looks like an old Kyosho Outrage buggy. I'm not sure about the other one.
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Old 02-10-2002, 06:04 PM   #187
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Default Losi xxt m.f.e.

Who`s got the best prices on the XXXt Matt Francis Edition?
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Old 02-11-2002, 04:57 PM   #188
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Default hard packed/blue-groove tracks

I got a question for SkipGear or whoever is formiliar with this kind of track conditions:

I usually race on tracks with pretty loose dirt (usually step-pins or ifmar-pins or ifmar-studs), and am a pretty competitive racer. I went to a track that's hard packed (long Island raceway) and couldn't get any traction on it. Even after getting the tires everyone else was using(taper or hole-shot). I got a set of hole-shot and the "hot" inserts to go with it and never really got the traction I needed. The car wants to slid in the sweepers. Everytime when I get on power, it wants to swap ends.

Here's mine question: Am I just not use to this types of tracks or is it something else? Usually, we don't use tired compound on loose dirt. Is that what I'm missing? Do I need to compound the tires?

I like to make it to a big race this summer. Maybe one of the midwest tracks. I understand that unfortunitly, most of the tracks outside of northeast are hard packed. I like to understand how to setup my car for these track before I make the trip. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 02-11-2002, 05:09 PM   #189
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Iggy,

You may want to post your current setup, it will help in figuring out why your car was maybe doing the things it was doing.
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Old 02-11-2002, 05:14 PM   #190
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Iggy -
I haven't been to Long Island but have some friends who have. They said the track is just plain slick, no matter what you do. I will try and get them to post on the subject for you but alot of it just comes down to throttle control.

On hard packed tracks, you can't gouge the throttle. The traction is there but once you exceed the limit of the tire, recovery is difficult. Also keep in mind that you may need to change setup on the car to compensate for tire changes.

On loose, loamy tracks like you say you normally race on, usually adding throttle will cause the tire dig into the dirt and help you recover from a slide.

The two tracks take a totaly different driving style. On a hard pack track, you must drive smooth, apex corners, not apply too much throttle until the car is straight. On a loose track, you can get away with a much more aggressive driving style.


BTW - Not all hard packed tracks are slick. CRCRC in Columbus is a very hard packed clay track. There is no loose dirt to be found yet pulling the front wheels of the ground coming out of a corner is not uncommon. As a matter of fact, most of the tracks around region 5 are like that. Must just be something in the dirt.
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Old 02-11-2002, 05:16 PM   #191
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Yoshi - Did you ever get your setup figured out?
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Old 02-11-2002, 05:34 PM   #192
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I was running a original XXX-T and here's my setup:

Front: 30-55, lower outside, upper #2, .090 inner limit, Pink Springs, camber -1, toe-in 1

Rear: 30-56, lower middle, upper #3, Yellow springs, no shim in pivot, hubs centered, camber -2, toe-in 1 deg hub

Ride Height: Bones level, front arms level

Other : Battery centered, 88 spur, 19 pinion, 12x3 orion
Rear Tire : red hole-shot, proline firm inserts
Front Tire: silver edge

I understand that a 12x3 motor was probably too much for that track since most of the people had like 13 or 14 turns(I didn't have another motor with me). But I was been very careful with the throttle in the infield and breaking fairly early on the straight. I qualified ok, I think I was 6th in the A. But was never really able to be on the same lap as the top guys. Thanks guys for all your suggestions. If I come to CRCRC this summer, I'll say hello.
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Old 02-11-2002, 07:31 PM   #193
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Iggy,
For more traction you could try moving the rear shocks in on the tower and going to 27.5 wt. You didn't give what camber links you are running, but running 2-B or 1-A in the back should give more rear traction. I'd also go to a pink spring in the back for better weight transfer control. You can move the hubs forward .030" or all the way forword for more forward bite. 57/25 or 57/22.5 in the back will also give more traction when you initially get on the throttle coming out of a turn. More anti squat will do the same. You could also try moving the battery back some. Another way to go about more traction is numbing the front end down. Making it less aggressive will make the rear end seem like it has more traction.
Make sure the tires are the right ones and broken in if need be. At Long Island, you can talk to Rob Betts or Vinnie Nocella and they will both be able to help you out.

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Old 02-11-2002, 07:33 PM   #194
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Iggy -
Truck is not my thing so I asked around. This is a setup from Jason Schweitzer, he runs for Peak and Losi. He used this on a hard packed, dusty, slick outdoor track. (Indiana State Race) It might help you out some. I also asked some others to post on here to help.

Front: 56 - 27.5 wt, .090 limiting middle on arm, #2 on tower, 2-B camber Red springs, 1 washer under inner ball stud, 1 under spindle for bumpsteer

Rear: 56's 20wt, unscrew shock bottom 2 turns, oustide on arm, #2 on tower yellow springs, 2-a camber, 2 degrees antisquat.

Tires:Front Silver Directionals Rear: Red T-2000
Battery in the middle, Plastic Chassis

As far as tires go, use what is popular at the track. The safe setup is to make the truck push slightly on power and neutral to slight over steer off power. The plastic chassis helps this. Also, use a bit less negative camber. Closer to zero seems to work better with the XXX series.
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Old 02-14-2002, 07:12 AM   #195
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Should I get a xxx-nt truck or an RC10GT, or a MT Racer????I found an almost brand new XXX-NT for 250.....rtr
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