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Old 11-19-2001, 08:38 PM   #166
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Poweredbysbc,
I'll send you something. Skip's setup works surprisingly well at CRCRC.
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Old 11-20-2001, 01:01 PM   #167
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Jason reads???lol...j/k

Poweredbysbc: try Skips setup. It is very balanced....

One of the biggest things to look at on his setup is the tires....
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Old 11-22-2001, 08:53 AM   #168
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Default Larrys

Is anyone racing at Larry's Performace R/C's?

Last edited by Trick Parts; 12-10-2001 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 12-10-2001, 01:04 AM   #169
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skipgear,
I need so help here, please correct me if I'm wrong.
The shock piston are arrange according from the biggest hole to the smallest.

#60 natural biggest holes
#57 black slightly bigger
#56 red medium
#55 orange slightly small
$54 blue smalles holes
please correct me If I'm worng because my friend says that red pistons are smaller holes compared to the orange, and i saw the daping of his buggy they have become lighteron the same fluid. Thanks
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Old 12-10-2001, 01:34 AM   #170
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The larger the number the smaller the hole. The numbers corresponds to the AWG specifications. American Wire Gauge

Go to this site to view a chart on it:
http://www.newmantools.com/decinch.htm

60 is 0.040" dia
59 is 0.041" dia
58 is 0.042" dia
56 is 0.046" dia

So if red is a #58 and orange is a #56, then red would have smaller diameter piston holes. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-10-2001, 08:57 AM   #171
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Emer - thatdog has it right. The # size of the piston refers to size of the wire drill used to create the hole. The higher the number, the smaller the hole. Number drill bits are available from #80 (smallest) to #1 (largest).
There are a few companies that offer hand drills in wire sizes to drill your own pistons. When you see for example, 7-7-0, on a setup. You start with #60 pistons (for the "-0" part) and then drill two of the holes with a #57 (the "-7" part) drill bit. Most people that like to drill pistons will use a #60 piston and drill from there. There is a difference between a drilled #56 and molded #56 piston because of mold imperfections and shrinkage.
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Old 12-10-2001, 04:58 PM   #172
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skipgear, thatdog,
Thanks! I will work on these.
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Old 12-13-2001, 08:27 AM   #173
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do women know about shrinkage??????
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Old 12-28-2001, 03:57 PM   #174
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hah mr losi, my bro races an mf xxxt on an indoor on road track and hasnt broke a thing yet in 3 weeks hes been racing it. i have one as well but have not race it yet. but we both love our trucks.
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Old 01-13-2002, 10:14 AM   #175
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XXX Kinwald vs. RC10B3 Factory Team

I haven't raced RC cars in about ten years. Back then, everyone I knew drove RC10's, the kind with the gold-anodized aluminum tub chassis. Things sure have come a long way since then.

Anyway, I'm looking to buy a new 2WD electric buggy, and it seems the only two good top-of-the-line choices are the XXX Kinwald Edition and the RC10B3 Factory Team. Any opinions on which is better and why? They seem pretty similar on paper. Any other cars I should even consider?
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Old 01-13-2002, 06:32 PM   #176
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skipgear/ thatdog,
I have tried dynamite red 1/2 x 3/16 seal bearing on my freinds NXT, XXX-nt both of their seals came-off after 5 tanks of fuel. Original teflon and blue seals of losi cant hold it, the only way is to goto metal seal, can you advise where to buy them online? How much are bocca bearing, what seal are they?
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Old 01-14-2002, 07:18 PM   #177
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www.bocabearings.comBoca Bearings

I don't run gas right now but I have had no problems with either the stock or the Dynamite bearings. Boca makes a very good bearing though and you have a few options on quality.


buonviri - Losi is of course my choice. Either car will work well, go to where you will be racing and see what wins. The more people with the car you want, the easier the learning curve for setup will be.
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Old 01-28-2002, 03:50 PM   #178
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Can anyone give me a good aggressive stock motor setup for the xxx on a hardpacked dirt track?

I dont have a sway bar, and I cant seem to find a setup as I change from 40wt oil in the rear to a softer one.
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Old 01-28-2002, 09:41 PM   #179
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Default triple-xt vs triple-xt spec

what are the differences in these trucks and who are they intended for?
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Old 01-28-2002, 10:56 PM   #180
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Yoshi,
What are you running now? Please post the complete setup, not just parts and pieces. The setup below is a good starting point. Do everything listed, not just one or two things. If you are trying somebody elses' setup, do everything listed, not just some, including all the shims and ride height. This is what I run at CRCRC with minor changes to adjust for conditions. CRCRC is hard packed clay with very little dust and no loose dirt at all. What is your track like? Is it clay, top soil, or sandy soil? It is abrasive of fairly polished?

Quote:
Originally posted by SkipGear

Front: 30-56, lower inside, upper #2, .090 inner limit, .000 outer limit, Orange Spring, 3.2-B camber, one washer under spindle ballcup, spindles raised, Std. Ackerman, camber -1, toe +1/0

Rear: 25-56, lower outer, upper #2, .000 limit, Pink spring, 2.3-A (camber mod) , 2 deg. anti-squat, hubs centered.

Ride Height: Bones level, front arms level

Other: Battery centered, 78 spur, All graphite car
Rear Tire: Pink Taper w/Bomb2 soft (fairly well worn)
Front Tire: Pink 7202 w/ 3/4 Losi Firm Rear (dremeled down half height)

Gump -
XXXT Spec - An entry level truck. It comes with standard shocks (not hard annodized), Tranny bearings only/ bushings in axles, plastic chassis and suspension parts.
XXXT - A racer level truck. Full ball bearings, hard annodized - teflon coated shocks. Plastic chassis/suspension parts.
XXXT MF - Full blown race truck with all the recomended factory options: Threaded shock bodies, TiNitride shock shafts, Ti tie rods, Graphite everything, red dressup items.
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