Need help - Fioroni TurboSliding Clutch
#1
Need help - Fioroni TurboSliding Clutch
Wonder if any of ya'll can lend a hand...
Just got a new Fioroni two shoe TurboSliding clutch...but no instructions. I'm certain I can install it, there's not that many parts...but I hope someone can lend a hand with setup / tuning tips.
First, I'm installing it on a Sportwerks Turmoil Pro with the v2 SW engine & stock pipe. I run on a indoor, 100% clay track (no blue groove). Proper clutch setup is key, as there are typically many double jumps after slow speed, 180º switchbacks.
There are two brass spacers - I figure at least one of these go behind the collet. Flywheel and nut seem simple, but mainly looking for clutch shoe & spring help.
There are four types of shoes: white tall, white short, black tall, black short.
I can tell the taller shoes will engage the housing better, but which compound is harder vs softer? Is there a good starting setup here?
Regarding the springs, I have the OT-FR58 package (six clutch springs). These look to be identical...can anyone confirm?
All in all, any good starting setup advice or 'secret squirel' tips would really be appreciated. Or maybe a link to online instructions?
regards-
TC_Tuner
Just got a new Fioroni two shoe TurboSliding clutch...but no instructions. I'm certain I can install it, there's not that many parts...but I hope someone can lend a hand with setup / tuning tips.
First, I'm installing it on a Sportwerks Turmoil Pro with the v2 SW engine & stock pipe. I run on a indoor, 100% clay track (no blue groove). Proper clutch setup is key, as there are typically many double jumps after slow speed, 180º switchbacks.
There are two brass spacers - I figure at least one of these go behind the collet. Flywheel and nut seem simple, but mainly looking for clutch shoe & spring help.
There are four types of shoes: white tall, white short, black tall, black short.
I can tell the taller shoes will engage the housing better, but which compound is harder vs softer? Is there a good starting setup here?
Regarding the springs, I have the OT-FR58 package (six clutch springs). These look to be identical...can anyone confirm?
All in all, any good starting setup advice or 'secret squirel' tips would really be appreciated. Or maybe a link to online instructions?
regards-
TC_Tuner
Last edited by TC_Tuner; 12-07-2006 at 06:50 PM. Reason: .
#2
Tech Fanatic
You could send a PM to GWPhoenix1978 on the Chitown RC site. He runs that clutch on his buggy at LH.
#3
Tech Adept
iTrader: (48)
turbo sliding clutch
It sounds like you have the new twin turbo sliding clutch with 4-shoes. The earlier turbo sliding clutch has 2 shoes. Anywho here are instructions for the newer 4-shoe twin-turbo clutch from the Fioroni thread on the sgrid:
For all sliding clutch users:
I reccomend to use only 2 springs in the NEW TWIN TURBO CLUTCHES: 1
for each pad; this way there is the optimum engagement of pads and
correct time difference in engagement beetween big and small clutch
parts.
If your motor need more bottom punch please use the NEW Hard/Short
springs (item code FR59) .... you can also mix spring type and color
pads to obtain best performances for your driving style and/or engine
tuning.
Regards,
Vittorio.
#95 of 303 by Vittorio Moroni (modelcar) on Thu May 4 18:11:58 2006:
Ok, I try to explain:
the 2 parts works together.
put 1 spring in each clutch pad.
put the small pad into the flywheel with the spring-face toward the
flywheel.
put the big pad (only 1 spring inside it) into the flywheel over the
small pad with the spring-face up.
(In other words the flat faces of the pads has to contact each other).
Put on the brass shim with flat face toward the big pad.
Go on the track and have fun.... ;-)
.... i hope this can help.....
You can email Garen Hagobian at:
[email protected]
He is very helpful.
For all sliding clutch users:
I reccomend to use only 2 springs in the NEW TWIN TURBO CLUTCHES: 1
for each pad; this way there is the optimum engagement of pads and
correct time difference in engagement beetween big and small clutch
parts.
If your motor need more bottom punch please use the NEW Hard/Short
springs (item code FR59) .... you can also mix spring type and color
pads to obtain best performances for your driving style and/or engine
tuning.
Regards,
Vittorio.
#95 of 303 by Vittorio Moroni (modelcar) on Thu May 4 18:11:58 2006:
Ok, I try to explain:
the 2 parts works together.
put 1 spring in each clutch pad.
put the small pad into the flywheel with the spring-face toward the
flywheel.
put the big pad (only 1 spring inside it) into the flywheel over the
small pad with the spring-face up.
(In other words the flat faces of the pads has to contact each other).
Put on the brass shim with flat face toward the big pad.
Go on the track and have fun.... ;-)
.... i hope this can help.....
You can email Garen Hagobian at:
[email protected]
He is very helpful.
#4
Ohhhh!
satoch-thanks for the tip, but I don't have an chitownrc account. If I don't figure this out, I'll create one and drop him a line - thanks! I'm running LH tonight, so maybe I'll see him there!
ssuga20-your post totally helps. I didn't even think of 'stacking' the shoes and using all four. Makes total sense.
I guess all I'm still searching for is the different 'ratings' of the two shoe colors - black vs white. I would think the black shoe is harder and white softer, but that's just a guess.
Anyone?
thanks in advance-
TC_Tuner
ssuga20-your post totally helps. I didn't even think of 'stacking' the shoes and using all four. Makes total sense.
I guess all I'm still searching for is the different 'ratings' of the two shoe colors - black vs white. I would think the black shoe is harder and white softer, but that's just a guess.
Anyone?
thanks in advance-
TC_Tuner
#5
Tech Adept
iTrader: (48)
TC_Tuner,
You are correct. The black is carbon, and the white shoes are teflon (for loose conditions). There is also a red shoe which is catagorized between the carbon and white. Here is a link to Amainhobbies which describes the Fioroni parts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...3d108f00ba6706
FYI, the Fioroni turbo and twin turbo sliding clutch are very low maintenance and the clutch bearings last much longer. Great for truggies with high horsepower engines.
You are correct. The black is carbon, and the white shoes are teflon (for loose conditions). There is also a red shoe which is catagorized between the carbon and white. Here is a link to Amainhobbies which describes the Fioroni parts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...3d108f00ba6706
FYI, the Fioroni turbo and twin turbo sliding clutch are very low maintenance and the clutch bearings last much longer. Great for truggies with high horsepower engines.
#6
!
ssuga20 - that link helped alot, thanks!
I installed and ran the clutch last night. I used all carbon shoes, with one spring on each. It felt very solid and consistent. I will try a few different combinations (two springs on the larger shoes, white smaller shoes, etc.)
I'm not sure that I have that brass colored 'shim plate' installed right, though. I totally understand how one of the plates get installed on top of the shoes, but I got two of the shim plates with my clutch.
Is the second one a spare? How many of these are inside the clutch?
Thanks for your help in advance-
TC_Tuner
I installed and ran the clutch last night. I used all carbon shoes, with one spring on each. It felt very solid and consistent. I will try a few different combinations (two springs on the larger shoes, white smaller shoes, etc.)
I'm not sure that I have that brass colored 'shim plate' installed right, though. I totally understand how one of the plates get installed on top of the shoes, but I got two of the shim plates with my clutch.
Is the second one a spare? How many of these are inside the clutch?
Thanks for your help in advance-
TC_Tuner
#7
Tech Adept
iTrader: (48)
turbo clutch shim
TC_tuner,
You only need to use 1 of the brass shims, the other is a spare. Look at the shim and you will notice a small flange on the small inner hole. Install the shim last, just before the clutch bell goes on with the flange facing out from the engine (towards you). The flat side faces the engine or the clutch shoes. Hope that makes sense.
It sounds like you have everything in place correctly, just be sure the flange on the brass shim is facing out from the engine.
Also, when installing the springs be sure not to twist the springs when you place them into the clutch shoe grooves. Glad to help.
You only need to use 1 of the brass shims, the other is a spare. Look at the shim and you will notice a small flange on the small inner hole. Install the shim last, just before the clutch bell goes on with the flange facing out from the engine (towards you). The flat side faces the engine or the clutch shoes. Hope that makes sense.
It sounds like you have everything in place correctly, just be sure the flange on the brass shim is facing out from the engine.
Also, when installing the springs be sure not to twist the springs when you place them into the clutch shoe grooves. Glad to help.
Last edited by ssuga20; 12-09-2006 at 10:58 AM. Reason: add information
#8
what clutch bells work with the fioroni sliding clutch? will this one work.........
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2945
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2945
#9
good
well, sounds like I have everything installed correctly. I noticed the raised section on the brass shim, at it made sense that this would space the clutch bearing off the shim. The extra shim just had me second guessing myself.
When I connected the clutch springs, I carefully 'closed' the link where the connect. Not sure if this was something that would have been in the directions, but sure seemed to make sense. I was super careful and didn't crush or weaken it.
regarding clutch bells, as you can see...I'm not an expert on this. From what it looks like, though, it's pretty universal. I used the same clutchbell that I was using with the factory SWerks aluminum three shoe setup.
Depening on how long the shoes last, I really like this clutch so far. I got an amazing amount of life out of the SW shoes & springs (and they're inexpensive). This seems like it will have more tuning options, which I like.
thanks!
When I connected the clutch springs, I carefully 'closed' the link where the connect. Not sure if this was something that would have been in the directions, but sure seemed to make sense. I was super careful and didn't crush or weaken it.
regarding clutch bells, as you can see...I'm not an expert on this. From what it looks like, though, it's pretty universal. I used the same clutchbell that I was using with the factory SWerks aluminum three shoe setup.
Depening on how long the shoes last, I really like this clutch so far. I got an amazing amount of life out of the SW shoes & springs (and they're inexpensive). This seems like it will have more tuning options, which I like.
thanks!
#10
The Sportwerks bell works find, that is what I have been using. You will find out that clutch will be the longest lasting clutch you will ever run.