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Old 11-13-2006, 01:55 PM   #1
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Default engine break-in method..?

Hey guys...
I wanted to see what you guys thought of THIS break-in method. I have never heard of running an engine at full throttle for multiple tanks when brand new, but hey, if it works, it works!
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Old 11-13-2006, 02:43 PM   #2
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Sorry to burst your bubble...but this is 1) nothing new and 2) Many people swear by this method. I personally choose to run mine new engines in differently. I feel that while Cyrul's method my be great for experienced Pro racers...it is not something I feel comfortable doing.Basically, I use the "heat cycle method". I use a heat gun to heat the block up to around 180, then let it idle for maybe 1/2 tank or so...blipping gently every 30 sec. or so to clear it out. Then I kill it, bring the piston to BDC, let it cool. Heat the block again, start 'er up and run 'er gently( 1/4-1/2 throttle)for approx 3 minutes.Then I kill it, bring the piston to BDC, let it cool. I repeat this process approx five or six times...so it has about 18 minutes on it. Then I will run 'er, basically doing
the same process only for 4-5 minutes each.By now it has close to an hr run time. While doing all of these short runs, I never hit more than 3/4 throttle. After this has been done, I start pulling full tank runs, paying attn to how the engine is running, leaning the HSN if necessary. Since adopting this method, all engines I have run in this way have performed flawlessly.
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:28 AM   #3
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I like the "Bess" method as well, but I wrap the head in something to hold the heat in, a 1/10 scale tire foam (new) works very well or even an old sock. By wraping the head you can heep the temps this 200's while keeping a rich tune to provide extra lube for break-in.
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Old 11-14-2006, 09:29 AM   #4
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Default engine break in

hey schmidt452 could you give me a link to the bess break in thanx
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:55 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwlkr
Hey guys...
I wanted to see what you guys thought of THIS break-in method. I have never heard of running an engine at full throttle for multiple tanks when brand new, but hey, if it works, it works!
Works great. Engines produce good power, last a long time, but still start easily and will idle through a whole tank without issues. Assuming you can tune an engine fairly well.

The hardest thing is actually bringing yourself to clamp that throttle wide open for the first time
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Old 11-14-2006, 01:58 PM   #6
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THE BESS METHOD:



If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:22 PM   #7
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The cyrul method sounds similar to what we used when breaking in a ABC airplane motor. We would not do a real rich break-in like when ringed engines were the norm. We would do what was called a hot break-in. We would set the motor at full throttle and tune for a miss about every 1 or 2 seconds. This way you did not wear the pinch off the cylinder and ruin the motor.
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Old 03-07-2007, 11:05 PM   #8
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seem every time break in.. start the engine.. shut down..turn the piston at BDC.. let it cool completely.. and repeat..

why must stop and let it cool completely (at least 15-30 minute).. can we do it continously without stopping until it ready to race..

Last edited by arghh; 03-07-2007 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 03-07-2007, 11:06 PM   #9
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schmidt452

I`m breaking in my Os .12TG just like you suggested.

Just to make sure I`m doing it right .


How should adjust my settings for the first tank ?
and
You seem to suggest a leaner setting then the factory`s before break-in...

Is this correct ?
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Old 03-08-2007, 12:53 AM   #10
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dont worry about the Wide Open Throttle - Josh Cyrul styel!

u can check mine... it got video to proof the tires wont spin at all when u open(counterclockwise) it rich enough. just follow through the article. i have 3 engines using all these style. all still with power and idling steadily. no problem at all. in fact the compression is so good you wont be able to turn it over with the glow plug installed.
WOT is the way.
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Old 03-08-2007, 07:21 AM   #11
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Wild Cherry & arghh -
A measured needle setting is not the important thing during your first few tanks. Getting to proper engine temp and not stressing the fittment of the parts is the key.
Turn your top needle in to get the motor to 200 + ASAP. This is the temp where the different metals are designed to be at. Any colder and the softer material will be ground faster than the harder material. Different materials expand at different temps.
You can run until you are almost broken in fully. We run ours until they will hold tune for over half a tank of fuel. When done right this will be the first time we let the motor cool down. If the motor dies then just restart it before it cools down. The "Heat Method" is to harden the surface of the internal parts. If they are not broken in then why would you want to harden the parts? It will change the wear characteristics.Don't get the motor on the pipe for the first couple of tanks. You will stress the conn rod and wrist pin due to the piston/sleeve being tight.

Pulse the throttle up and down while you are driving. Every time you come down lots of fuel will go through the motor. You will hear and feel the motor get looser and looser. OS motors will get lose in about 12 - 15 minutes. high end Novas and others will take a little longer.

After a couple of tanks you can drive it a little harder. You will get the feel for it.

Be patient!
Now you can heat cycle. After 4 - 6 times you are ready for some real driving.

I had to break in 2 motors yesterday for customers.

Good luck!
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:27 PM   #12
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I am getting a new GT2 kit with my new OS .12TR engine. Can I try Josh Cyrul's method of "WOT-over rich fuel mixture" to break in my new engine???
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d4man
I am getting a new GT2 kit with my new OS .12TR engine. Can I try Josh Cyrul's method of "WOT-over rich fuel mixture" to break in my new engine???
Of course you can. You can use whatever break in method you like. I have no confidence in this method however. Maybe if you heat the engine with a heat gun first and use it to help maintain a temp around 200-220. Only then, maybe. But that's just my opinion.
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwlkr
Hey guys...
I wanted to see what you guys thought of THIS break-in method. I have never heard of running an engine at full throttle for multiple tanks when brand new, but hey, if it works, it works!

found this video on youtube. very interesting.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAhO3ohjT2Y
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Old 03-24-2007, 11:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt452
THE BESS METHOD:



If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
I used this same method to break-in my JP Mod V-spec. 11 gallons and still has good compression. I always run a little on the rich side, and for a modified motor like mine, there's always plenty of power without going too lean on the needles. Also, I've never, not even once skipped the after run oil.
I've heard just a couple of months ago about WOT break-in. I think I'm going to try it with my next motor.
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