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Old 11-10-2006, 07:59 PM   #1
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Default XXX-4 tips and tricks

I had a xx4 a long time ago, loved the way it handled, hated working on it. i'm currently on my second xxx4 and love the ease of maintenance, but as everyone knows they don't handle as well as a xx4 on anything other than a smooth track.

so, i've been going over mine gradually trying to fix some of the issues...

castor blocks break easily. i've tried the xfactory screws and had some of them snap. i haven't tried the a-main raceway blocks, but have some on order. i'm afraid they will cause the arms to break though.

so i tried what someone posted on another thread, bj4 castor blocks. these are not a direct fit. i had to drill out the area where the cvd passes through, and noticed that i could drill the pin holes in these and the arms a tad and use an actual hinge pin all you need are some plastic spacers to center the block, and the rear upright spacers are the perfect size. we'll see how well these hold up this sunday...

i also noticed that the front shocks are angled back quite a bit when using the fiberglass shock towers, and even a little with the molded towers. this isn't good for consistent handling, so i tried to fix this also. using a hodge-podge of spacers i had, i spaced the tower out from the bulkhead bit using aluminum spacers. i didn't want to just run a really long screw at the top of the shock and lots of spacers because IMHO that can bend and flex easier. at the top of the shock i used some long aluminum shock bushings. now the shocks are pretty much perpendicular to the a-arms, much better angle.

the only bad part so far is now i have 3 different colors of anodized aluminum parts on the car


anybody else have any cheap, easy fixes that make a big difference?
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Old 11-10-2006, 10:54 PM   #2
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Maybe you would want a little longer screw threw the tower/chassis and throw a nut on the end? I would hate to see the chassis holes get stripped on a Ooops landing...

Im using a aluminum front tower right now. Love this thing!!
It isnt weak enough to bend easily but not hard enough to brace the chassis like the double graphites did
The best part is a body hammer and dolly and its straight as an arrow if i do happen to bend it.
I run a black belt from the XXXS. Mostly because i run in stock/novice class most of the time and this belt is easy to run super loose with a stock motor. The Green/Yellow belts are what i use with a mod, the black skips way to much even when ran tight for me.
I have yet to, but its in my plans to do the brace between the diff cover and chassis.

Any tips on the slipper? Its either too loose or too tight, as if its tightening threw out the run, especially since i got 3800s from the 3300s, alot more punch longer Cant wait till i get some 4200s.
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Old 11-10-2006, 11:05 PM   #3
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Upgrade to an X-5 if you want your XXX-4 to handle like a XX-4. The X-5 has the simplicity and drivetrain of the XXX-4 with the great suspension of the XX-4. Plus, the slipper is alot better design on the X-5 compaired to the XXX-4.
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Old 11-11-2006, 09:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FowLer
Any tips on the slipper? Its either too loose or too tight, as if its tightening threw out the run, especially since i got 3800s from the 3300s, alot more punch longer Cant wait till i get some 4200s.
i run mine to have almost no slip. actually, if the track is dry mine won't slip at all.
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Old 11-11-2006, 09:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sport10
Upgrade to an X-5 if you want your XXX-4 to handle like a XX-4. The X-5 has the simplicity and drivetrain of the XXX-4 with the great suspension of the XX-4. Plus, the slipper is alot better design on the X-5 compaired to the XXX-4.
i could upgrade to an x5, but i already own the xxx4 and got it dirt cheap. i'm trying stuff out that's next to free to try and make the car work a bit better.
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Old 11-11-2006, 09:55 AM   #6
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red locktite the slipper nut, and crank it down pretty dang tight, I run pretty much no slip, and then you leave the belt a little loose. Just make sure you warm the nut when removing because that red locktite holds TIGHT.
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:36 PM   #7
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Ideally you want the shocks to be perpendicular to the kick-up/anti-squat value in the f/r arms when looking at a side view of the car. So spacing the front tower forward to make the shocks perpendicular to the ground plane isn't "ideal" for the effeciency of the shocks as you're adding a 2nd angle/plane the shocks must now work through resulting in a slightly "softer" shock angle. If it works for you...good, but having the tower forward will allow the tower or tower mounting screws to shear off easier from the chassis. Also I too bought a set of BJ4 caster blocks to see if it would make my car more durable but ended up never running them. The spindle height and ball stud height were too different from a stock XX/XXX-4 caster block for me to make or adjust it to work/be the same. It also appears from your dogbone angle that your front axles are further back than the stock position....so maybe move your caster blocks forward a bit.
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Old 11-15-2006, 01:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlobbaTech
It also appears from your dogbone angle that your front axles are further back than the stock position....so maybe move your caster blocks forward a bit.
the axles are in the stock position, perpendicular to the chassis centerline.

my car actually handled quite a bit better with the few tweaks i mentioned in my first post. the bj4 blocks were basically indestructible... unfortunately, i came down off a tripple on one wheel in practice and tore the front pivot out of the chassis. plenty of CA and kicker had my car back in action for the first qualifier, but apparently i had a cracked plastic outdrive up front (as a result of my practice crash) that i didn't notice. i finally had the car out on track for the 3rd round of qualifying with metal outdrives up front, and qualified on pace with the rest of the pack while babying the car. my replacement chassis is on order, so we'll see how it can do in a couple weeks without babying the car.

note to self... aluminum inner suspension pivots = bad idea.
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:29 PM   #9
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I just used the aluminum outer pivot blocks and kept the inner ones plastic. Some part of the car needs to be weaker in case of a bad crash. This made the car reasonably durable. One of the best investments you will make to increase the performance of this car is the addiition of a front oneway. The Lesro model oneway sold by Xfactory is almost bulletproof.
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