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Old 10-30-2006, 09:05 PM   #1
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Default Rebound stop?.

Bros, sorry to ask a lot but can u tell/explain to me a bit what's the purpose and how to properly adjust it? again,, i say a many thanx!
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:49 AM   #2
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Sandrixx,
Set your ride height and check it from front to rear as well as side to side.
When you are happy with it you need to get you a pick or small hex wrench.
With the car set at eye level on a table move it so the front is facing right at you.
Take your pick and lift the center of the chassis until one of the wheels (either right or left) comes off the ground. Adjust the droop screw of the other wheel to come off the ground at the same time. Now you are balanced right to left.
Do the same for the rear. Once balanced you can measure the ride height of the chassis for both front and rear. When you pick up the chassis you can measure the droop value by measuring the chassis when the wheels just come off the ground.

In general a buggy will be more aggressive entering a corner with a lower ride height in the front than the rear. It will be more stable if the chassis is level. It will be planted in the rear and have a slower steering response if the rear is lower.

Most racers try to run max travel (max droop value possible without binding your drive train) for off road. I am an advocate of running minimal travel (less droop) to keep the car closer to the ground and out of the ruts.
If you run a little more droop in the rear than the front when your chassis is fully lifted it will be a good place to start.

More droop in the rear will give you more steering in but it will take your car longer to transistion in and out of corners.
More droop in the front will make the car easier to drive. Less droop will make the car have faster responses to steering input.

Play with it. It is a very useful setting.
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:57 PM   #3
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Default the only one!

Bro Tex, u're the only bro who replied yet very informative. I'll do ur advice asap. I would like to say a many thanx bro in nitro!!

Mabuhay,

sandrixx



Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
Sandrixx,
Set your ride height and check it from front to rear as well as side to side.
When you are happy with it you need to get you a pick or small hex wrench.
With the car set at eye level on a table move it so the front is facing right at you.
Take your pick and lift the center of the chassis until one of the wheels (either right or left) comes off the ground. Adjust the droop screw of the other wheel to come off the ground at the same time. Now you are balanced right to left.
Do the same for the rear. Once balanced you can measure the ride height of the chassis for both front and rear. When you pick up the chassis you can measure the droop value by measuring the chassis when the wheels just come off the ground.

In general a buggy will be more aggressive entering a corner with a lower ride height in the front than the rear. It will be more stable if the chassis is level. It will be planted in the rear and have a slower steering response if the rear is lower.

Most racers try to run max travel (max droop value possible without binding your drive train) for off road. I am an advocate of running minimal travel (less droop) to keep the car closer to the ground and out of the ruts.
If you run a little more droop in the rear than the front when your chassis is fully lifted it will be a good place to start.

More droop in the rear will give you more steering in but it will take your car longer to transistion in and out of corners.
More droop in the front will make the car easier to drive. Less droop will make the car have faster responses to steering input.

Play with it. It is a very useful setting.
TEX
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Old 11-01-2006, 08:12 PM   #4
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What is droop?
Droop is the amount of down travel that your shocks have. With
adjusting droop you can greatly affect the way your car handles. As you
increase your front droop (making the shock longer) you will smooth the
car out going into the turn and gain steering on the exit of the turn.
As you decrease your front droop (make the front shock shorter) your
car will initiate the turn quicker but will have less steering coming
out of the turn. The car will also have a more responsive feel.
For the rear, as you increase the droop your car will gain more side
bite and traction. As you decrease the rear droop, you car will become
more responsive and will have less side bite giving you more steering.
Normally on low bite tracks such as parking lots you will find more
droop will increase traction and hook your car up. On high bite tracks
you will find that less droop will help keep the car flatter and
increase corner speed and lap times. Droop is something that you should
experiment with at your local track to get a feel for what it does and
how you can apply it the next time you race.
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Old 11-01-2006, 08:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
Play with it. It is a very useful setting.
TEX
droop is most important in accelerate, traction, cornering and rough section.. can u explain more how it work on rough section, small/big jump, loop de doop area.. whats the best setting.. does lighter shock oil + harder spring is usefull if using more droop.. does heavier shock oil + softer spring is better if less droop..
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:33 AM   #6
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thanx for all the help.. so does droop contributes in good/bad jumping?

thanx again




Quote:
Originally Posted by arghh
droop is most important in accelerate, traction, cornering and rough section.. can u explain more how it work on rough section, small/big jump, loop de doop area.. whats the best setting.. does lighter shock oil + harder spring is usefull if using more droop.. does heavier shock oil + softer spring is better if less droop..
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:52 AM   #7
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More droop is better bumpy track handling and jumping yes.

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Old 11-02-2006, 06:16 AM   #8
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In offroad racing there are a couple of things to consider.
Droop is the amount of travel (after ride hieght) your suspension has as it moves towards full extension.
When we have high speed sections that have ruts in them you might want to reduce the amount of droop you have to keep the tire from getting down in the rut and traction rolling in the corner. If the high speed section is straight then I would run more droop.
The limitation is running less and less droop only to find you can no longer land the triple because the car does not have dampening due to limited suspension travel.
Springs and oil transfer more to traction and dampening off jumps.
Ride height can be very critical as well.

Keep in mind if you are a racer that can't land the back of a jump every time you might need a little more droop. The better and more consistant you drive will allow you to set the car up tighter to take advantage of these situations.

In general... Take your car and set it on a table with the side towards you. Lift the front and rear at the same time while keeping the chassis level. The fronts should come off the table before the rears. Never the opposite. Sometimes they will be close to the same.

Get you friend to stand in the pits with a hex driver. Set your car up while you are having this disscussion and make sure everything is right. Start at max droop both front and rear with it balanced from side to side.
Run a few laps to make sure it is right and tell him to give you a full turn on the front arms. Drive the car 2 or 3 laps.
Tell him to give you a full turn on the rear. 2 or 3 laps.
Now pull in and back out 1/2 on one of the setting then in or out on the other.
Discuss what you are going to do ahead of time and you will feel the differences instantly.
If you are polite you need to repeat for your buddies car.

Good Luck,
TEX
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:55 PM   #9
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bros, more info re droop?...i really cant wait til tomorrow to test my car.,,thank God its friday!!! yeaaahhh!! thanx again.




Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
In offroad racing there are a couple of things to consider.
Droop is the amount of travel (after ride hieght) your suspension has as it moves towards full extension.
When we have high speed sections that have ruts in them you might want to reduce the amount of droop you have to keep the tire from getting down in the rut and traction rolling in the corner. If the high speed section is straight then I would run more droop.
The limitation is running less and less droop only to find you can no longer land the triple because the car does not have dampening due to limited suspension travel.
Springs and oil transfer more to traction and dampening off jumps.
Ride height can be very critical as well.

Keep in mind if you are a racer that can't land the back of a jump every time you might need a little more droop. The better and more consistant you drive will allow you to set the car up tighter to take advantage of these situations.

In general... Take your car and set it on a table with the side towards you. Lift the front and rear at the same time while keeping the chassis level. The fronts should come off the table before the rears. Never the opposite. Sometimes they will be close to the same.

Get you friend to stand in the pits with a hex driver. Set your car up while you are having this disscussion and make sure everything is right. Start at max droop both front and rear with it balanced from side to side.
Run a few laps to make sure it is right and tell him to give you a full turn on the front arms. Drive the car 2 or 3 laps.
Tell him to give you a full turn on the rear. 2 or 3 laps.
Now pull in and back out 1/2 on one of the setting then in or out on the other.
Discuss what you are going to do ahead of time and you will feel the differences instantly.
If you are polite you need to repeat for your buddies car.

Good Luck,
TEX
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:17 PM   #10
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Default flyin high again....

I had a very great stable weekend at the track...thanx very much for all the help.

burn nitro!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:20 PM   #11
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Good to hear it went well. Share with us what you findings were please.
Did you get to expirement?
Thanks,
TEX
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
Good to hear it went well. Share with us what you findings were please.
Did you get to expirement?
Thanks,
TEX
Bozz, my main prob was really "nosedivin'" during the bigjumps so it struck me to isolate what happens before-during-after that jump. If u can find my thread regarding nosedivin' mbx5 u can tell that i just did combined all the great help i got from all nitro bros out there. But with droop?.. all i did was max it but at the same time balanced it coz before it wasnt., and with the max droop i can dive in the turn after the veryfast straight/startingline in our track....compared to others. Getting in the turns and out the turns where a breeze also with my -2 camber for all tires., rear toe in is -3 and front toe out is +1. I do my setup the eachnight before i go to the local track here...just to make sure. hehehe..
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