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Old 10-15-2006, 12:46 AM   #1
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Default XXX-NT Rx battery?

I'm sorry if this has been covered, but I couldn't find anything on it.

First I'd like to say that the receiver battery box on the XXX-NT seems needlessly difficult to open. So, is there a quick-release box out there? That would really be the best solution.

Second, if not, which battery packs fit in there, size- and voltage-wise? I found this one, but it's out of stock: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...tz-1400/Detail There's got to be another place to find this, or something that works.
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:16 PM   #2
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http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVG13&P=7

Something like that will work. Trinity has 1600's now that will last quite a while.

The receiver box on the XXX-NT trucks only requires four screws to open; not too tough at all. Why would you need to open the box very often? Simply run a charge lead from your battery just outside the box and you can charge your battery without taking it out. All of the quick-release and "stronger" battery box tricks I've seen for these trucks are too heavy, don't make things much easier, and just don't seem worth the money.

Any five cell pack made of 2/3A cells will fit in the right configuration. I always disassemble my receiver packs and use full-size battery bars anyway.
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:42 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVG13&P=7

Something like that will work. Trinity has 1600's now that will last quite a while.
Exactly! It's a few bucks more, but at least it's in stock. But now I feel like an idiot, because I don't know which charger to get. I haven't run any electric R/C in years, so I don't know what's what with battery packs/chargers. It's been NiMH AA batteries for me, for a very long time.

I saw that DuraTrax has another hump pack for $10 less, same mAh (1100). Is the Trinity really any better? There's a 1400 mAh pack by DuraTrax that is the same price: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUH0&P=7

On chargers:
This one looks nice and flexible:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXCLD5&P=

As does this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXUF43&P=

And I'm not sure why this one is $20 more than the one above, other than it says "deluxe": http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXUF45&P=

I don't even know if DuraTrax batteries and chargers are any good! I want something reliable and relatively idiot-proof, but I'd like to use it on lots of different packs if needed. I don't necessarily need/want a fast charger, but it's nice to have options. And I'd prefer to keep the price of the charger under $75. Any favorites?

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The receiver box on the XXX-NT trucks only requires four screws to open; not too tough at all.
It's not /tough/ at all, it's just a pain because the screws are so long relative to the thread pitch... and I'm apparently lazy. :P

Quote:
Why would you need to open the box very often?
I don't, really, but I ran through some (very little) water long ago, and didn't open my box when I was done. Later I opened the box to find some rust forming from the contacts in the battery holder. It was very light surface rust, but it bothered me.

Quote:
Simply run a charge lead from your battery just outside the box and you can charge your battery without taking it out. All of the quick-release and "stronger" battery box tricks I've seen for these trucks are too heavy, don't make things much easier, and just don't seem worth the money.
Sounds good to me! Any money that I /don't/ spend on this I can spend on gas and real hop-up parts.

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Any five cell pack made of 2/3A cells will fit in the right configuration. I always disassemble my receiver packs and use full-size battery bars anyway.
When I get more knowledge on that kind of stuff, maybe I'll do the same. For now, I'll buy the prefab stuff from the pros. It doesn't sound hard, I just don't want to screw anything up.

Thanks!
~S~
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:11 PM   #4
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A good switch wil have a charge lead on it anyways. You could also use deans connectors, then you have a charge lead, and do not need a switch.
HTH
Rod
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:05 PM   #5
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I use an extra pigtail with a Deans plug for charging, and use a Novak switch. It's not a setup for everyone, but I've used that for years.

Sometimes capacity numbers don't mean very much. With that said, go for the biggest one you think is worth the money; Trinity sells 1600's now and I've had them work great in 45-minute and hour-long mains.

Realistically, you'd never have to open the receiver pack box more often than after race day, if you're meticulous about cleaning and maintenance. For the protection offered by the box itself, I think it's a pretty necessary trade.
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
I use an extra pigtail with a Deans plug for charging, and use a Novak switch. It's not a setup for everyone, but I've used that for years.
You guys are going to have to forgive my ignorance on the terminology, since I've just done this on my own for years, and am just now getting into talking to others about it. Anyway, the Deans plug and switch you guys are talking about, I assume that is the flat-ish, two-connector plug that seems standard on just about every R/C? It came with the truck from the factory, between the battery and the switch, luckily.

Quote:
Sometimes capacity numbers don't mean very much. With that said, go for the biggest one you think is worth the money; Trinity sells 1600's now and I've had them work great in 45-minute and hour-long mains.
Cool. But no opinion on DuraTrax, or which charger to buy? I certainly don't want to buy their packs if they suck. On the other hand, I'm not one for spending extra money, unless I get something extra, like better quality.

Quote:
Realistically, you'd never have to open the receiver pack box more often than after race day, if you're meticulous about cleaning and maintenance. For the protection offered by the box itself, I think it's a pretty necessary trade.
I have to say that I'm not as meticulous about cleaning as I probably should be. Actually, right now, both cars are pretty filthy, since I don't have any cleaner...

Thanks, guys!
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Old 10-18-2006, 01:00 AM   #7
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"You guys are going to have to forgive my ignorance on the terminology, since I've just done this on my own for years, and am just now getting into talking to others about it. Anyway, the Deans plug and switch you guys are talking about, I assume that is the flat-ish, two-connector plug that seems standard on just about every R/C? It came with the truck from the factory, between the battery and the switch, luckily."

NO, that is a crappy plug, a deans plug is a pair of black/red connectors, but just go and get a $6.00 Airtronics 3 wire switch, but if you want deans plugs and just hardwire your car, look on towerhobbies.com and search for Deans, it will come up. They connect really well, great racing plugs.

"Cool. But no opinion on DuraTrax, or which charger to buy? I certainly don't want to buy their packs if they suck. On the other hand, I'm not one for spending extra money, unless I get something extra, like better quality."

Umm, the cheap one should be ok if you are just charging receivers adn transmitter batteries, but for racing electric cars ( i dont know if you do or not) this is not really the best option, but this will do fine for what you are going to use it for. As a note, chargers are worth about what you pay for them. If you are going to spend under 60, that is fine, or a super brain, make sure it is a peak charger, around 90, the Triton is a great charger, and they just go up from there.

"I have to say that I'm not as meticulous about cleaning as I probably should be. Actually, right now, both cars are pretty filthy, since I don't have any cleaner..."

All you need to clean is a tooth brush, Q-tips, A littel rubbing alcohol is nice as well, and maybe some Simple Green. Break Cleaner (NOT CARB CLEANER) works well to, but don't use it to clean your car, just for that extra uumph. THe simple green is great for after most of the debris is gone as a final cleaner and polish, then if you want shoot it with some wd40 to give the plastic a "new" shine, and helps to keep some of the dirt off for next time. Nitro clean is good for engine cleaning, again after a good toothbrush scrubbing.

"Thanks, guys!"
HTH
Rod
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatermaxx
NO, that is a crappy plug, a deans plug is a pair of black/red connectors, but just go and get a $6.00 Airtronics 3 wire switch, but if you want deans plugs and just hardwire your car, look on towerhobbies.com and search for Deans, it will come up. They connect really well, great racing plugs.
LOL OK, so crappy stock plug is out. I found the plugs you were talking about, and some variants, like the micro version. Looks like the 2-pin Ultra Plug is the one I want.

Quote:
Umm, the cheap one should be ok if you are just charging receivers adn transmitter batteries, but for racing electric cars ( i dont know if you do or not) this is not really the best option, but this will do fine for what you are going to use it for. As a note, chargers are worth about what you pay for them. If you are going to spend under 60, that is fine, or a super brain, make sure it is a peak charger, around 90, the Triton is a great charger, and they just go up from there.
Cool. I might as well get a decent one, in case I get into electric cars. I mean, gotta have something to do when it gets really cold outside, right? And those micro R/Cs are pretty cool. Then again, those probably only require AA batteries...

Quote:
All you need to clean is a tooth brush, Q-tips, A littel rubbing alcohol is nice as well, and maybe some Simple Green. Break Cleaner (NOT CARB CLEANER) works well to, but don't use it to clean your car, just for that extra uumph. THe simple green is great for after most of the debris is gone as a final cleaner and polish, then if you want shoot it with some wd40 to give the plastic a "new" shine, and helps to keep some of the dirt off for next time. Nitro clean is good for engine cleaning, again after a good toothbrush scrubbing.
See, I've tried the toothbrush, but the oil seems to just stick. I'll try alcohol and/or Simple Green... dunno why I never thought of that.

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"Thanks, guys!"
HTH
Rod
It did, thanks!

~S~
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:49 AM   #9
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Rubbing alcohol doesn't work as well on the grime, it is more of a sensitive area cleaner (rx, ESC, servos, where you are going to put stickers), but simple green works great. Get a bottle of concentrate and an empty spray bottle and mix it about 3.5:1 - 5:1H2O: simple green, works well and dries well.
THe ultra plug, that's it, I just use a switch, although I am thinking about hardwiring the battery to the rx pack, less connections=less resistance=longer battery life, or something like that.
L8r S.
Rod
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Old 10-18-2006, 10:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatermaxx
Rubbing alcohol doesn't work as well on the grime, it is more of a sensitive area cleaner (rx, ESC, servos, where you are going to put stickers), but simple green works great. Get a bottle of concentrate and an empty spray bottle and mix it about 3.5:1 - 5:1H2O: simple green, works well and dries well.
Cool. Better yet, I have at least a gallon of Simple Green, but I don't have much alcohol.

Quote:
THe ultra plug, that's it, I just use a switch, although I am thinking about hardwiring the battery to the rx pack, less connections=less resistance=longer battery life, or something like that.
L8r S.
Rod
hehe I wonder if it makes a discernible difference. And how do you keep the dirt out of the charge plug, use tape, or do you even worry about it?

Thanks!
Scott
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:18 AM   #11
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For a charger, check out this one.....LN-5014
http://www.multiplexusa.com/RC-comp/...rs/LN-5014.htm



I have been using it for nitro racing....
Works great and can charge every battery type I have....
Made jacks for all sorts connectors, from servo leads to alligator clips.
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Old 10-18-2006, 03:27 PM   #12
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WD-40 trumps all the cleaning agents mentioned. WD-40 is safe on all plastics (rubbing alcohol and other cleaners can harm plastic and anodized aluminum) and Simple Green contains water, which will cause rust if you don't clean it off completely (it is best when followed by WD-40 anyway).
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:29 PM   #13
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I hit my rigs with wd40 anyways, water protection and lube for better chassis slide. The ultra plug is TIGHT, no need to worry about stuff getting into that bad boy.
Rod
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tres
For a charger, check out this one.....LN-5014
http://www.multiplexusa.com/RC-comp/...rs/LN-5014.htm



I have been using it for nitro racing....
Works great and can charge every battery type I have....
Made jacks for all sorts connectors, from servo leads to alligator clips.
That looks like a really nice charger, but I ended up getting this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAVN1&P=RF It charges using both AC and DC. Pretty nice for the money.

Thanks!
~S~
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:32 AM   #15
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WD-40, huh? I'll give it a shot. Heck, I might even have a can of that crap around somewhere...

Thanks again!
~S~
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