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Old 10-20-2006, 07:37 AM   #16
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I have no idea. I asked kdub (coach) and he told me that they do shorten and re-inforce it the chassis, thats about all.

Next time Montgomery comes to McCulloughs to race, I'll check out his T4 and see how he did it.
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Old 10-20-2006, 02:05 PM   #17
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I do have a little insight into the 'shortened chassis thing'. Apparently they started doing this as a result of development of the new GT2.
Obviously if they had suspicions about a shorter chassis working, molding a new one would be TOO expensive in relation to the gains made. However while developing the GT2 it was relatively easy to drill on the aluminum plate chassis and move stuff around. Another reason I still miss the 'frying pan' AE cars.
I would definately say that some creative bracing would be in order, and I heard that they slice right about where you mount the ESC.
Keep me posted if you see anything, I enjoy fooling with chassis as much as I enjoy driving. Unfortunately my results probably reflect this. HA!
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Old 10-20-2006, 09:05 PM   #18
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I have some insight too add. Dave likes the shortened chassis at McCulloughs, CRCRC and Indy, where the ROAR modified nats where recently. And it likes to wheelie more. But it looks dialed!! Im gonna ask around tommorow during the club race...
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Old 10-22-2006, 12:00 AM   #19
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What is the best way to lighten a t4??
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Old 10-22-2006, 12:23 AM   #20
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i think AE should start making the chassis or something with foam padding on the sides of the battery because if u buy a plastic kit u naturally put the foam opn the plastic oone .and then they dont give u foam when u buy a N.I.P carbon chassis.only cause carbon conducts electricty.we had a few cases at our last race meet where the battery touched with the side and it lit on fire.although this was in the plastic chassis,anybody have any ideas.P.s i was using deans so i cant have shorted it.

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Old 10-24-2006, 02:58 PM   #21
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Wow I've never heard of batteries shorting out on the chassis. They do make some nice battery padding (P#asc7329), but I'd look elsewhere for the problem. I've personally witnessed metal parts getting wedged under the ESC wire lugs and causing pretty spectacular failures, but not spontaneous dead-shorting of a battery pack by the chassis itself.
As far as lightening a B4/T4 I'd say go all carbon, with all titanium hardware. Other than that there's very little area for cutting and grinding to lighten the rolling chassis. You could mill the tub, cut down the motor plate and there may be some other area to get creative. We used to cut out the material between the ribs inside the wheels, then run wheel dots. This would eliminate weight, but that isn't the reason it was done.
Bear in mind when trying to lighten the vehicle that most drivers actually ADD weight to their cars. Modern cars have a very low center of gravity and are very light already. Weight tends to make them more stable without sacrificing responsiveness.
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Old 10-24-2006, 03:13 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halve
What is the best way to lighten a t4??
I'm assuming that you race in stock. If you crash even once during a 5 min heat, you have wasted any money spent on lightening your t4. If someone else is much faster than you on the track, I would bet that it has nothing to do with weight. Money spent on maintaining your stuff will be much better spent.
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:59 AM   #23
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B4 and T4 chassis

hey all:are you all saying that the B4 works better with the stock plastic chassis and the T4 works better with the optional graphite chassis or is it just a matter of which ever one fits the track your racing on that day?
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Old 10-26-2006, 08:31 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfishel
Bear in mind when trying to lighten the vehicle that most drivers actually ADD weight to their cars. Modern cars have a very low center of gravity and are very light already. Weight tends to make them more stable without sacrificing responsiveness.
yeah at the recent state title my t4 and b4 were both very light only getting over by about 25-30 grams in both classes.(dont know how many ounce that is over in america)

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Old 10-26-2006, 09:12 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boony
we had a few cases at our last race meet where the battery touched with the side and it lit on fire.although this was in the plastic chassis,anybody have any ideas.P.s i was using deans so i cant have shorted it.

Boony
Hey, what ESC are you using? I had a short between my GT-7 and my battery bar once when I was doing a little tuning on the steering EPA or subtrim, and the car bounced, the battery wasn't down, and that was the end of that ESC
Rod
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:50 AM   #26
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Lightning the chassis is a waste of time. Concentrate on getting around the track with no mistakes.

Where I race, we *add* weight to the T4/B4
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:52 AM   #27
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B-man777-It totally depends on the track you race at.
When a track is HIGH BITE,with smaller jumps and very smooth then a MORE RIGID car could be ran with no issue's.
Rigid= Graphite Chassis,Arms,Towers.(Less Flex)

When your track is harder to get traction on,rough or outdoors and the jumps are bigger then you will want the Car or Truck to have more flex.
FLEX= Composite Material that gives a lil(More Flex)

Unless your a VERY consistant driver then 95% of the time you would want a Plastic Chassis.There are even some guys out there that like Graphite Chassis's in stock but refuse to run them in Mod.

Just save yourself the heartache and run Composite Chassis's on both.
If you run on a loose type track that requires more flex then also run composite arms.

Hope this helps.

Les
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Old 10-27-2006, 11:52 AM   #28
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hey texracer;thanks for the insight very informative
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Old 10-28-2006, 07:07 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatermaxx
Hey, what ESC are you using? I had a short between my GT-7 and my battery bar once when I was doing a little tuning on the steering EPA or subtrim, and the car bounced, the battery wasn't down, and that was the end of that ESC
Rod
was running at novak gtx.i just turned the car on b4 a race and it sparked on fire.
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