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Old 02-20-2007, 07:40 PM   #46
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they arent that fragile. but wat u wanna stock up on is front shock towers and front arms and spindles
i'm not totally sure why, but after seeing your post, i have this increadable desire for some freash baked, straight from the oven, chocalate chip cookies and a tall cold glass of milk.
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:04 AM   #47
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Drift buggy ,those are the same parts Houston was refering to.He was just $.04 off.
Yes but he said as a set not each like amain

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Old 02-21-2007, 08:46 AM   #48
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Yes but he said as a set not each like amain

Cheers
They come as a set.Seen them on the wall at A-main last night.

AssosRacer-most guys that run the aluminum blocks and front pivots stay with the graphite inner pivot pin holders.They are a little cheeper and faster to replace stock caster blocks and it keeps a fairly cheep "weak" point.
You are right in that beefing up one area only increases the stress on other parts.
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:42 PM   #49
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They come as a set.Seen them on the wall at A-main last night.
I e-mailed them and they said they are each and other people on the internet have said they are sold each. Does anyone else know? If they are a pair then I am buying some tonight

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Old 02-22-2007, 12:26 PM   #50
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I e-mailed them and they said they are each and other people on the internet have said they are sold each. Does anyone else know? If they are a pair then I am buying some tonight

Cheers

They are sold as a PAIR for$39.99.

I raced there tuesday night and seen them on the wall,(2)per package(left and right). Yes they are in stock.I just called their hobby shop to verify.
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:01 PM   #51
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I've never broken one of these. I don't understand why everyone else seems to break them. I'll bet i've got 20 of them sitting in my parts box. I've broken spindles, diff cases, shock towers, and one arm, that's about it. Dunno how you guys are breaking these parts.
I broke my first carrier tonight. Here's how I did it: Go full bore down a 100ft straight and then clip the inside pipe with just the side of wheel by turning a little too early... Ripped the wheel clean off and sent it flying down the track when both the spindle and carrier broke. Everything else was OK. Kinda neat-looking, even though it was my car.

I heard that some guys have replaced them with the BJ4 Alum carriers. At $22 for the set (L & R), it would be better deal for those who need them.
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:36 PM   #52
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the bj4 ones are different in heigth than the amain ones and also the amain ones have an extra camber change adjustment . and kevin the lexan front bumper helps minimize the front end bottoming out on the faces of the jumps and also on the 2x4 chunk landings that the xxx4 mimicks as it is 1/4 inch less protrusion out of the front of the chassis.
later y'all
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Old 02-22-2007, 11:27 PM   #53
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They are sold as a PAIR for$39.99.

I raced there tuesday night and seen them on the wall,(2)per package(left and right). Yes they are in stock.I just called their hobby shop to verify.
Sweet, thanks for that

Cheers
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:34 PM   #54
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Whats this thread doing on page 10?

Lets bring it back!
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:56 PM   #55
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Whats this thread doing on page 10?

Lets bring it back!
OK, here's a question. Mine used to be nice and quiet, but now makes quite a bit of gear noise. The pinion and spur look fine. How do I get it to pipe down?

MM5700, nickel-plated RRP 15T pinion, stock 92T blue spur
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:54 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houston
the bj4 ones are different in heigth than the amain ones and also the amain ones have an extra camber change adjustment . and kevin the lexan front bumper helps minimize the front end bottoming out on the faces of the jumps and also on the 2x4 chunk landings that the xxx4 mimicks as it is 1/4 inch less protrusion out of the front of the chassis.
later y'all
Monty
can the plastic bumper be cut to get rid of all the protruding material?

i have the a-main castor blocks as well as some bj4 ones i modified the crap out of. i've been running the bj4 parts since i can run a real hinge pin with those.
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Old 03-22-2007, 06:54 AM   #57
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OK, here's a question. Mine used to be nice and quiet, but now makes quite a bit of gear noise. The pinion and spur look fine. How do I get it to pipe down?
Sounds to me that the gears are not spaced correctly..too tight.
Loosen the motor mount and turn it while its running to see if is quiets down
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Old 03-22-2007, 07:28 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alltapdout
Sounds to me that the gears are not spaced correctly..too tight.
Loosen the motor mount and turn it while its running to see if is quiets down
I'll double-check that, but I really don't think that's what it is. I've been setting it the same way all along. I found an article last night that said to put some dry lube on the gears, so I might try that.

I actually wanted to post that Q in the other thread since this one seems to be more about parts breakage, but I got the 2 confused.

Here's my contribution for breaking stuff:

I broke the chassis in a head-on collision with a stadium truck. Snapped the front shock tower mount clean off the plastic chassis. With no plastic ones available, and a new graphite one being about $50-60, I fixed it with epoxy, fiberglass tape, and some 1/8 AL plate. So far, so good.
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:49 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by pserve
OK, here's a question. Mine used to be nice and quiet, but now makes quite a bit of gear noise. The pinion and spur look fine. How do I get it to pipe down?

MM5700, nickel-plated RRP 15T pinion, stock 92T blue spur

I know you mentioned the pinion and spur look fine, but I'm going to guess the pinion is worn out. Is it a Robinson? They wear out surprisingly quickly.

Put a new Losi pinion on. Cheap to try. Losi pinions last a good long time.
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Old 03-22-2007, 07:03 PM   #60
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Yes, it's a Robinson. Not one of the cheap ones from the six-pack either. What does worn out look like?
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