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Old 10-08-2006, 11:53 AM   #16
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ok, im not to shure what brushes im running but the motor is an epic can and endbell with a Havok 15t arm.

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Old 10-08-2006, 10:06 PM   #17
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Since it's a bit of a "Hybrid" motor, I'd say start off conservative, with 12 degrees, they try 18, checking the motor temp each run. If it gets hot, go back to 12 -- if it runs cool, dial it up to 24.

The TRACK is always the best "dyno"...
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:36 AM   #18
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tfrahm, what are the temp guidelines for motors? i used to know them but the past 2 years of nitro seems to have evaporated that knowledge thanks,

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Old 10-09-2006, 02:08 PM   #19
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ok 12 degrees. will do. and advanced is rotating the endbell clockwise right?? and one more thing. in my SB Pro i have to reverse the motors direction, therefore i need "negative" timing on the endbell right??

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Old 10-09-2006, 06:10 PM   #20
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Motor temp is one of those subjects where there are a lot of variables. The biggest variable is where you take the temp. With Nitro, you always shoot around the glow plug. With electric motors it's not so simple.

With sedans, I like to shoot the can near the vents, but when I race offroad, that isn't possible, so I take the temp off the brush hood area. The can is more a measure of how hot the MOTOR as a whole is. Brush hoods get hotter when you are running, but they also cool off faster after a run.

I've gotten sedan motors up to 235 and that was WAY too hot (running stock 6-cell sedan on a parking track in the middle of summer) -- that will hurt a motor (magnet fade, etc.). I normally try to keep temps around 160-170. That seems to be a little conservative, but the motors hold up well. In general, I'd say keep it well below 200 for sure, and if you are down around 130 or so, you are leaving way too much on the table. Keep in mind that the magnets in Sagami based motors (Yokomo, Reedy, Orion, etc.) seem to be much less affected by heat than EPIC based motors. I've "cooked" Reedy and Orion motors by gearing errors, but once they cooled down, they were back to full performance. EPIC motors have magnets that can fade under the best of circumstances, and if you "cook" them, they must be rezapped and may never come all the way back...

No magic answer, but that may help some...
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mat3833
ok 12 degrees. will do. and advanced is rotating the endbell clockwise right?? and one more thing. in my SB Pro i have to reverse the motors direction, therefore i need "negative" timing on the endbell right??

Matt
Uh -- if I read your post correcly, you have "advanced" going the wrong way....

Looking at the endbell, you want to crank it COUNTER clockwise (the top goes to the left) to advance timing for NORMAL rotation...

If you have a situation that REALLY calls for reverse motor rotation, then yes, you "advance" in the opposite direction, but except for the second motor is some monster trucks, and some old school oval pancars, I have NEVER had to run reverse rotation... MAKE SURE you are not just compensating for an endbell that has been rotated 180 degrees by swapping the +/- wires....
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:25 PM   #22
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how would i know the difference? is there a mark on the can?

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Old 10-09-2006, 08:43 PM   #23
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TnT hobby in Plano TX has one on the shelf new for sale 19.99 they might even ship to for a fee
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:32 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mat3833
how would i know the difference? is there a mark on the can?

Matt
Assuming you are asking about normal/reverse rotation...

Looking at the pinion end of the motor...
NORMAL rotation is counter clockwise.
REVERSE rotation is clockwise.

If the actual rotation is 'normal', but to get that, you have to wire the endbell "backwards" -- that means that the endbell is rotated 180 degrees from where it should be. Timing direction is dependent on rotation direction, not the wiring.
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Old 10-10-2006, 01:56 PM   #25
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ok thanks, ill check that

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Old 10-10-2006, 07:27 PM   #26
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thanks tfrahm, that's the info i was looking for!
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