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Old 02-19-2003, 05:48 AM   #16
dw
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hydro-gin, I've not run a gt for several years and would't like to comment too much on the life of the spur gear with the newer chassis. What I can say is that after adding a brace to the old tub chassis the standard gears only stripped if the engine moved which requires screws to come loose and/or a good crash. I would expect the new chassis to be the same. With the original chassis spur gears would strip every couple of runs unless you braced it.
You can buy quite a few plastic spurs for the price of a steel one and they are lighter.

I'd steer clear of titanium gears personally. The reason being that you can't harden them giving a higher wear rate than steel and they are heavier than the standard aluminium.

I'm not sure using an aluminium idler will make the top shaft wear any worse. The reasons being as follows.
Metal against metal contact causes more wear to the top shaft initially. But think about what happens with a plastic gear. After a few meetings the gear has started to wear. You then replace the plastic gear on your next rebuild because the teeth have got narrow and you don't want it to strip. Because of the wear on the metal gear the tooth profiles don't match properly and wear occurs faster.
If you use two metal gears they will both wear at roughly the same rate. As they wear the teeth will always match each other as well because they both wear out at the same time so you are not mixing new and old gears.
The aluminium idler gear is not essential but it does mean you can get away with a bit less maintenance and is one less thin to worry about.

One thing to be careful about with the standard associated top gear is there can sometimes be burrs on the gears which need removing with a modelling knife. Failure to do so will not do the wear rate of the gears a lot of good.
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Old 02-19-2003, 11:58 AM   #17
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DW, that's exactly the kind of reasoning I was looking for. Nothing against people who do lots of hop-ups, if you can afford it, that's great, but I prefer to put my money where it can get the most bang for the buck. So for now, I'll be happy with a spare Kimbrough spur in my box and will consider the metal idler.

BTW, my bad, the RRP idler is actually *steel*, not aluminum. I was confusing it with their AL diff gear.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPZ87&P=7

Good eye on the burrs. I've got an electric Evader and they had a pretty bad run of poorly formed teeth on their topshaft for awhile.
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Old 02-19-2003, 12:04 PM   #18
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Default Cost-effective RC10GT Hop-ups

So, speaking of cost-effective upgrades for the RC10GT, what does everyone think about the carbon-fiber shock towers on the Team Factory? They're llight, but I'd think they're on the brittle side. I've seen quite a few aluminum replacements for the F & R from Trinity and elsewhere.

Is that a worthwhile substitution, or are perhaps plastic ones more foregiving?

ps. I'm happy with the RPM A-arms I've got, see no need for AL their either.
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Old 02-19-2003, 03:19 PM   #19
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Not tried them on the gt but my experience of aluminium shock towers is that they bend. Most aluminium parts are just for show. They are heavy.

Carbon fibre is more brittle than the standard grp and I don't think the weight difference is significant enough to justify the extra expense for a gas truck.

Heres the upgrades I got for mine:

titanium turnbuckles - essential, steel ones bend far too easily on a truck.
mip 4n1 clutch - not absolutely essential but made the car easier to drive.
Metal hex for the brake disc - The standard plastic one is useless.
Metal idler,

Thats it! There were however a number of other mods I did:

1) Braced chassis to stop spur gear flex - no longer neccesary.

2)Replaced screws with bolts using nyloc nuts where ever possible. If you just use screws they tend to fall out. Anywhere you are forced to use screws make sure you add some threadlock.
The large aluminium screws for the rear wishbone mounts can snap in a hard hit. I replaced 3 with metric (but only because I live in the uk) steel bolts. The third screw is too close to the spur gear to use a bolt so a steel screw of a very slightly larger diameter was used.


3) Used schumacher ball studs on the shock towers and hubs. The standard ones can break. The schumacher ones are stronger, but cheaper than titanium ones. Only problem is they are metric so can't be used everywhere.

4) Braced the rear bulkhead. This can snap in a sideways impact. I used a bent strip of 2mm aluminium which was clamped to the bulkhead by the ball studs. Rpm also make a reinforced bulkhead that won't break.

5) Fit washers to the front of the rose joints on the shock bottoms. This stops the shocks from poppingoff. Only down side is it means that in a very hard hit the shocks will bend.

I also did a few mods to the slipper but I think they have improved the slipper in newer kits making my mods unnecesary now.

One of the things that seemed to make most difference with the truck was how often you replaced the brake discs. They don't seem to last very long at all before they start to fade.
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Old 02-19-2003, 04:52 PM   #20
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The RC-10GT what can I say? Nice truck but their are somethings that need to be replaced.

If you having trouble with the truck chewing up spur gears and you gear mesh is right, check to see if you have the trans brace. The RTR's don't have them. All they are is a T piece of metal that screws to the two unused holes by the flywheel opening. The top tranny brace should also be replaced with another one that ties everything together. Click here to see the GPM top brace.
TOP BRACE BLUE GPM

For trans issuses I replaced the stock top shaft with the Ti one from Robinson. The Alloy diff gear is more of a toy for bashing then racing. My diff would heat up too fast from all the metal contact. That is why the diff gear is plastic stock. It acts like a buffer for heat. If you want to run the alloy diff gear, run ceramic diff balls. Koyosho makes them, their $40 a set but worth it.

Also I have heard that people want to run all metal gears in the stealth tranny. Go right ahead if you want to replace tranny halfs all the time. The plastic idler gear is the same idea as in the diff. Metal to metal contact creates heat, and deforms the cases.

Personally my GT has a lot of AL on it.
Here's a quick list

GPM
front bulkhead
steel nose braces
nose brace mounts
rear bulkhead
rear arm mounts
tranny cases (yes i know their $70 bucks)

Thats it but everything else is the stock plastic
Except the shock towers Graphite baby
I added most of the AL in the rear because I wanted to solid the rear end up. I was killing spur gears too but not anymore. The rear of this truck is solid as a rock. Not only that the truck runs cooler.

Since I used so much AL in the rear the heat from both the engine (which is a OS CV-X .12) and the tranny is distributed though out the rear. The bearings run truer in the tranny, thus cutting out bearing slop.

I know everyone will cry foul on me for making the rear end so heavy. It's bad enough the front of this truck is light enough to begin with. I'm working on that. I'm working on moving the battery pack to the front of the truck to even out the weight. When I finalize something there will be a picture of it on here.

If anyone has questions for me, I'll be glad to help. I'll share what wisdom I have.

Steve from NJ
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:31 PM   #21
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DW & Tweeter -

I really appreciate you folks sharing your ideas

I haven't had my RC10GT FT for very long and have been relying on Jodie Grein's website for ideas ... regarding DW's brake fade, Jodie recommends Dave Crescenzi's brake system. You can read about what Jodie has to say here:

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/RC10gt.htm

Apparently, he thinks its one of the best upgrades to get! I'm curious if anyone here uses Crescenzi brakes and whether they think its a worthwhile upgrade.

And on a related topic, I believe the term "drag brake" is used to refer to a certain amount of brake being applied when the throttle is at neutral. Do you guys dial in just enough to keep the truck from moving fwd at idle, or more so that you have some level of braking while entering turns?

I also understand that if you have the MIP 4-1 clutch, the amount of brake req'd at idle can be very small compared to the stock clutch because the MIP can be easily adjusted to not engage at idle. Sound right?
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Old 02-19-2003, 10:55 PM   #22
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Hydro

I have used the brake and I didn't like it. Just for the simple fact that it does fade after prolonged use i.e. 15 minute to 30 minute mains. Any brake will fade with the introduction of heat. I went back to the stock brake just because i can get a new disk and bracket for just as much as a the pad from the upgraded kit
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Old 02-20-2003, 03:16 AM   #23
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Tweeter, If you use all metal gears you have to lube them. This is not neccesary with plastic gears. The reason the plastic gears don't get hot is because they are self lubricating. They don't act as a heatsink because they are much less conductive than the metal. Also if you think about it if the heat generated is enough to melt a transmission case then it will melt a plastic gear. Never heard of people melting transmissions cases before though. Are you sure it wasn't a seized bearing or something. A slipping diff might also cause this with all metal gears. With a plastic diff it would melt the diff gear instead though.

I used to dial in loads of drag brake at neutral. This was mainly because I normally race electric and couldn't get used to having to pull back on the stick to brake. I also had a fair bit of deadband before the throttle kicked in so the brake wasn't engaged till the throttle was off. It was one of the adjustments I used most often because once set roughly it can be fine tuned from the transmitter by moving the trim.

The stock clutch can also be adjusted to not engage as much at idle by trimming the shoes. The main advantage of the mip is it engages more smoothly so the truck doesn't wheelie every time you hit the throttle ( I race on grass which gives high traction.). If you set the slipper loose enough to overcome this you would get little drive and the pad would expand. The current truck does have a longer wheelbase though so it may not be as essential.
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Old 02-20-2003, 01:31 PM   #24
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DW i've never been a fan of all metal gears in the tranny. I'm just looking it at it from a worse case point of view. When I say melt the cases I ment they will deform and bearings will not run as true and create even more heat. Also the tranny cases are not sealed. if u stick lube in there, you are asking for dirt and sand to get in there and start wearing away your expensive metal gears. I'd rather run the gears dry and just clean the cases with some compressed air and motor spray. And yes i've heard of sealing the cases with tape and sealent. I'd just like to tear my truck down after every race to see what and how everything is wearing. preventative maintinance is part of my job, working on military aircraft. so it just travels from work to my hobbies go figure.

Everyone has their own way of doing things. Everyone has thier opinion and people should take what they want from this thread.

Just my 2 cents

Steve
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Old 02-20-2003, 06:17 PM   #25
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Default Replay to hydro

It was the newer style alum. chassies, it came factory, with the right mesh.
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Old 03-07-2003, 03:17 PM   #26
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My fiance has the RC10GT and he loves it. I am still new to the whole RC thing. Here is a link to my site where there are pics of his car.

http://trigerhappyclan.8m.com/graphics.html

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Old 03-07-2003, 08:03 PM   #27
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Default RC10 GT Setups ????

Duz anyone have a Setup For the FT RC10GT On a Wet/Damp
Red Clay Surface Semi Smooth With Some Triples ? Thanks in Advance........
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Old 03-07-2003, 08:10 PM   #28
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I don't, but if you can't find help here, you owe it to yourself to check out the RC10GT forum over at www.nitrorc.com. I bet Nitro Dan (one of the moderators, and a long-time GT driver) will lend you a hand. Good luck.
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Old 03-07-2003, 08:16 PM   #29
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Thanks For the Info
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Old 03-25-2003, 11:19 AM   #30
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Talking I got one!

Ok, got a mint gold chassis RC10 from eBay , getting a spare shell, wing and gear cover from associated and it's being sprayed by a guy who does some of the Team Associated drivers in the UK ( not in love with the current hotrod flames look )... Yes, the car is not as tractable as, for example, the rare Tomy 4wd race buggy with GRP/belt drive chassis I had, or even a Losi xxx, etc but it is still a sublime drive. I kinda like rear- heavy 2wd buggies as I stared racing using a Tamiya Fast Attack Vehicle on stock tyres and suspension with mechanical speed controller and even managed to beat an avante once, having gone half a lap in reverse...
In short, it's the car I always wanted, it's gret just how it is and I wouldn't chage it for the world. Associated still do the stealth conversion kit ( $120 ) and you can get replacement aluminium tubs, but they are black, not gold... I could keep my car as it is and maybe sell it on for a profit, but frankly, I intend to drive it until the wheels fall off, then put them back on and drive it some more - it's the best buggy ever and if you drive it right, it's still capable of embarrasing some pretty expensive kit today
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