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Old 09-28-2006, 08:11 PM   #16
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speedbump... thanks for all the info. i learnt something here... from yer post. keep up the help.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:04 PM   #17
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You are welcome jfc!
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:18 PM   #18
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Speedbump, save that tutorial to your harddrive because you know that question will arise again!! lol
Nitro tuning is such an experiance, and that's what it takes to learn is experiance doing it.

Once new guys learn that engine life is described in gallons and that you can run a gallon in a day or weekend if you try... they start getting more familiar with tuning on the second engine.

The way to make an engine last is tune it right, and not full throttle runs to often or to long. I think even tuned right full throttle runs kill alot of engines. When I'm on a track the cars rarely see full trigger. Half the time my throttle epa is limited so they never truly see full go anyhow. The only time they see parking lots or driveways is to get the tuning somewhat dialed in after the engine has been torn down so I know it'll at least start when I get to the track. Then at the track is when you get em tuned for the races.
Some don't realize they need daily if not hourly attention to the needles.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:39 PM   #19
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LOL Jbrow1, I wrote it to the hard drive first this time. I have tried to help and answer questions as often as I can on nitro engine tunning, kinda giving back as they say. I have always said one day I am going to save one of these post so I can just copy & paste and this time I did it.
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Old 09-29-2006, 12:24 AM   #20
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speedbump57, U deserve a raise!!! keep the info coming.thanks
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:31 AM   #21
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Speedbump 57 - I agree it's a great post. To get 1.5 mm gap the idle screw is screwed right in - absolutely tight. That doesn't seem right to me. It's an Orion wasp 21.

I am not playing with this motor from new, someone else has had it first - I'm wondering if the tip is broken off the idle screw or if there is some other explanation
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:08 AM   #22
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No it doesn't. Do you have a carb restrictor?
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:41 AM   #23
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Heavy not long after your post I went and checked all 8 of my engines. The last thing I would like to have in my posts is bad info. What I found is most all were actually between 1.0mm & 1.5mm. I could also open them up as far as 3-4mm. So either you do in fact have a carb restrictor in place which would make sence or somthing else is different in your case. I set mine at 1.5 with out a carb restrictor and then fine tune from there. I hope this makes sence.
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:55 AM   #24
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Around here we call SpeedBump57 the Professor - now you know why - he is a natural born teacher - and a d*mn good driver, too!!!!...
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:28 PM   #25
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Thanks for the props ZZ. If you are going to be around this weekend we should be laying tube at the new track this weekend. Stop on out and say hey!
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Old 09-30-2006, 01:28 AM   #26
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Got a question! What about the middle speed needle setting?And what happens when it is off kilter.Low,Middle,High
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:01 AM   #27
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Unless you're a very experianced tuner leave the third needle (or seat) alone. If you get that one messed up you may never get your engine running properly again without professional help. If it's off it may not run, may run badly, or may run hot just like if the other needles are off. The third needle is not really a needle at all, but the seat where the low speed needle goes into. Any adjustment to the "third needle" needs to be done to the low speed as well. If you turn the third in an hour, you need to turn the low speed out an hour also.
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Old 09-30-2006, 07:15 PM   #28
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Motomanpat, listen to what Jbrow1 has posted. He is right on the money!
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Old 10-07-2006, 06:45 AM   #29
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This is some of the best info I have seen.!! Not only do you guys actually help each other but great info to boot. I have had the same prob. with heat and cant wait to try this info out.

Although, I would like some more info on the MSN if you have it.
From what I gathered it actually changes the barrel to go from the LSN to the HSN at a different time. Does this mean after I get it to run, sounding good on the top, and running hot, I can adjust the MSN to kick in the HSN later and run the bottom a little fat for cooling? What direction does the MSN need to go say for a longer duration on the LSN

Keep in mind I am just a basher mostly because I got in to this after the only local track in PA closed about a month ago for the winter and I chase my dad around with a Baja 5, so my little Axil.28 lives mostly WOT.

Thanks for the great info all!!

Ca
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Old 10-07-2006, 09:33 AM   #30
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In so much as this is a thread concerning the P5X, I have a couple of quick questions:what the heck is the screw circled in red? I figured I'd ask before doing anything to it, as there is no mention of it in the documentation that came with my mill.



Second, how do I go about removing the carb assembly? It seems to be impossibly-hard to remove, and I'd rather not force it in case I'm doing something wrong
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