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Old 02-06-2003, 07:46 PM   #1
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Starter box, wich one??

I need a starter box for my RC10 gtft but I want one with the big 12 volt motor, not with the two little 550's. Anyone know what will work for me??
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Old 02-07-2003, 01:56 PM   #2
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Default Starter Boxes

I'm having the same problem. The moter I could care less about, long as it works. anyone know of a decient box for around 60 that will work off a car batt.?
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Old 02-07-2003, 02:01 PM   #3
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Guys for the .12 motors the 2 motor 550 boxes work very well infact they spin a little faster and actually work better than the single motor boxes. The key to any starter box is the batteries used to power it. The best way I have found to power a starter box is 2 3000 mah. stick pack batteries. I rewire the box with good wire and never have problems. I do use the single high torque motor box for my 1/8 but the twin motor setup would work their as well. I know the asc/ttr box is a single motor gear reduction box and it also works very well but a little pricy
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Old 02-10-2003, 10:00 AM   #4
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I have a mugen box with twin 550s. It works fine with .21s I think.

It was a little tough when the motor was new.
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Old 02-11-2003, 04:32 AM   #5
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Since you have a GT why not get the Associated starter box? I have one and it works flawlessly! It will start everything, even a 1/8 scale car. It has one Big 750 motor in it, Looks like a Tamiya 540 but 3 times the size and power and can use different power sources. I use it on my GT with a os 12R which has high compression, and yes it has started it flooded with no problems. I highly recommend this box, I believe ofna makes one very similar, but not sure if it has the same big motor, or 2 small ones.
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Old 02-11-2003, 06:30 AM   #6
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Mugen's twin 540 is excellent. I use 2 packs of 2400s and have had no problems starting WS7s or G1s from brand new.
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Old 02-11-2003, 04:07 PM   #7
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The AE, Thunder Tiger and OFNA Multibox are all the same, 750 motor. Except the TTR box cannot start NTC3s.
I have the AE box and it starts my Hyper 7 easily, I just need a super high compression engine to give it a real work out
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Old 02-19-2003, 01:58 PM   #8
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i have used ofna boxes for a couple years both my boxes are the single motor type

i plan to get a smaller dual motor box sometime this year cause its smaller and lighter and will start my touring car fine

for my 1/8 i will stick with the big single motor box
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Old 02-20-2003, 07:46 PM   #9
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All,

I just purchased AE's starter box (the stainless steel box w. the single 750 motor). It came assembled with the flywheel running across the chassis line, so I had to follow the instructions and rotate the flywheel 90 degrees to work with my RC10GT.

The problem I ran into is that in its new in-line position, the flywheel slightly rubs the side of the slot that it sticks out of. In other words, its not centered in the slot. I've tried recentering the mounting bulkheads under the box many times, but no luck. Its almost as if some screw holes were drilled slightly misaligned.

Has anyone else had this problem?


ps. IMHO, this isn't that great of a design although I still hope to get it working. Here's my 2 cents:

a. Flywheel slots are much narrower than they need to be, so tolerance to manufacturing or assembly variance is almost non-existant. There's a gap of only 2mm on each side of the flywheel when centered.

b. When in the in-line position, the flywheel bulkheads are attached only to the top of the box. When in the other position, the bulkheads are attached to the top and the bottom, a more rigid and sturdier configuration.

c. That one-piece nylon handle is going to break someday, esp if you put a gel cell battery underneath, and leave it lying out in the sun. The major stress points on the handle where it attaches to the side plate have a fairly small diameter.

d. No stock mounting for a small gel cell like others. Yes, you could rig it, but why, when you just spent $90?

e. Doesn't have an external on/off switch - not really necessary, but the Ofna version has one.

f. The design and mfgr of this box was clearly contracted out. I don't feel this box is up to AE's normally high standards. Sorry, I'm an engineer, but I don't think it takes a rocket scientist to design a good starter box.
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Old 02-21-2003, 04:17 AM   #10
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The box is actually thunder tiger, but AE and Ofna have versions too, so you can blame TTR

My AE box came set up for a NTC3 and I needed to flip the wheel assembly round 180* to use it for my Hyper 7. I followed the instructions and it rubbed slightly, exactly the same as you. I found that by attaching the screws that hold the assembly to the top of the box first it wouldn't rub. I can't remember if it's necessary or not but did you flip the motor/starter wheel onto the other side of the "bulkhead"?

Keep on trying and it will work, it helps if you get it aligned and then put the screws while holding the starter assembly in position.

a) yes, why so little tolerance????
b) Mine's held up fine inline, but I see what you mean.
c) The plastic seems to fit well on mine, the weather never gets hot enough over here to soften the plastic
d) I found it veryeasy to put a 7A battery in mine. I stuck a bit of foam on the inside of the box then taped over the terminals on the battery and by removing the handle it slips right in and is secured firmly when I put the handle back on.
e) It would be nice, but they normally get switched on when you least suspect it.
f) I agree, it could be better but mine works fine now.

Last edited by LouisB; 02-21-2003 at 04:20 AM.
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Old 02-21-2003, 06:16 AM   #11
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why not just make the slot a little bigger with a dremel tool that should not be a problem.
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Old 02-26-2003, 01:24 AM   #12
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Well, I found 4 other people who have the AE box, and all of them see that the alignment of the flywheel in the slot is off. So, my conclusion is this is the way the box normally comes off the Thunder Tiger assembly line. Too bad.

Most people aren't having any serious rubbing as I was, but we'll see how this box ages. I ended up using my Dremel to widen the mounting holes in the SS box by slightly less than 1mm. This allowed me to center the donut in the slot. If you do this, use Dremel's #9901 Tungsten Carbide cutter and be sure to wear eye/breathing protection - you don't want to get any of those tiny sharp SS slivers in you!

The dimensions - W=4.5", H=3 1/8". How much length you have to work with (for adding a gel cell) will depend on how you have the motor mounted (after removing the stick batt holder). If you have it setup for an RC10GT, you have about 6" to work with. Keep in mind that there are two posts near the handle, and they protrude below the box into the battery area. I have the smaller Tower 4.5A gel cell, and will fashion some straps out of aluminum to mount the battery. The bottom of the box has a "lip" where you can drill holes for mounting brackets, etc.

If I had to do this all over again, I'd take a closer look at the Ofna (non Thunder Tiger) boxes. $90 should have bought more quality.
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Old 02-26-2003, 08:06 AM   #13
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it seems to me the guys with ae box wear out the rubber wheel awfully quickly also

my ofna box has been using the same rubber wheel for 2 years with being used quite often
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