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Old 09-09-2006, 09:16 AM   #31
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Also make sure the clutch bearings are not rotating in the cavities of the clutch bell. I have seen some bearing / clutchbell combinatins that will do this. They will blow every time.

Clean them out... Are you actually removing one shield to help get the grease out? If not, try it.
Oil them lightly... We are using a light oil sparingly and replacing the shield.
Space them good... We have begun using Traxxas Teflon shims for all of our inner race duties at our LHS. Leave some slop and these things will provide a little flex as well.
We also use a big shim over the top of them like the OFNA stuff.

Gear mesh should have a little slop but as stated, be consistant all the way around. Dry lube on your gears will reduce heat further.

If you are heating that much, it sounds like slipping is the culpret to me. Try roughing your inside of the clutch bell. Use a temp gun to tell you what it is doing. If it is slipping too much then adjust it or your power plant.

BTW - All bearings will work if you handle them right. I do like the AVIDs the best because I rework them on the rubber shield side and then put the metal shield side towards the chutch shoes. Extra peice of mind.

Hope you get fixed.
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:43 PM   #32
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Thanks Tex, I have been too using the ofna shimset for the shimming. But I never thought about the traxxas plastic shims. Just thought it might be something to heat and melt. Now on the Acers, are you running one metal shield and on rubber? Metal in is what I've tried with the seal on outside. Same problems...
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:45 PM   #33
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Oh and to the bearings outer race rotating in the bell housing. I've had a few that wanted to seem to do that but never ran them. So how would a guy combat that??? Or at that point is the bell termed useless???

Thanks again Tex for your imput...
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:43 PM   #34
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Tex helped me with my bearings on Friday at the track - he knows what he is doing !!
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Old 09-09-2006, 06:54 PM   #35
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mugenchad:

Please let us know how things work out for you regarding the bearing problem.
You've got a few pretty knowledgable people/racers trying to help you get this solved. I know the frustrations that you are going thru. But I'm sure we can put you on the right track with this problem. Once you get this fixed up you'll wonder how you missed it.

Even as tex1 said any bearing will work fine. He also has some great expertise for you to learn from. After thinking about this problem I can tell you without trying to brag or make you feel bad I've only lost 1 bearing to failure in the last 3 years of high competitive nitro racing and luckily it was not in a race. Proper scheduled maintanence and experience will show you the way.

Again, I believe 100% that proper shimming and alignment will solve your problem as I've been where you are now regarding clutch bearings.

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Old 09-10-2006, 11:43 AM   #36
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i was having the same issue in my crt with aluminum shoes and went to carbon and teflon shoes and it seemed to help, iwas getting more than a gallon compared to 3 tanks of fuel copared to the alum shoes. i know the shimming seems to be pretty inportant also.
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:27 PM   #37
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Yeah I know the shimming is one of the most important as well as the mesh and straightness to the spur. I have gathered a bunch of things to try so we'll see where it takes me with my issue. I'll keep everyone posted

Thanks again you guys are knowledgeable, sometimes it just takes maybe another opinion to try and figure something out.
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Old 09-10-2006, 04:18 PM   #38
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Mugen Chad
I had the same problem MBX5 Ppospec. I tryed Acer bearings I have ran the same bearings all season. After every race take them out spray with motor spray and put there lube in them no problems. Thay are $6.00 each but they are money well spent. It sucks when you can't run 5 min. Bocas are junk. Shimming is very important Good luck
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Old 09-10-2006, 07:25 PM   #39
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Wink My bad.

I overlooked one of the biggest heat causers there is. Mis-matching your clutch setup with your driving style. I'm not saying this is you or anyone else so I'll generalize.
If a driver goes from neutral to full punch and pumps the throttle, driving with a heavy spring is not for you. The starting and stopping means more slip = more heat. A lighter spring or heavier shoe will smooth out the throttle and make it to where the throttle has to be pumped less to keep the same amount of speed.
A motor that makes a lot of power low in the RPM can run carbon clutches which will reduce heat.
Smooth fingers make less heat!
I drove a guys car the other day where 50% throttle input = max power on the straight. We softened his clutch setup quite a bit and he got much faster.
I like my car setup for any given track to be 100% smooth. Only on the most high bite conditions will I run aluminum shoes where I can take advantage of the hard hit out of the corners. Otherwise its carbons and 1.0 springs for me. 15 - 20% throttle just gets the clutch engaged. I do most of my driving there and my cluthch comes off at 98 - 105 degrees which is good.

Hope this helps. Thanks for the props guys. Had a Jammin all over me Friday night!
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:59 AM   #40
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that is what I always used to run when I ran the three shoe was aluminum and 1.0s. I never liked the 1.1s because it felt like they hit to hard. So your saying that I should run one less spring on the Fioroni and allow it to come in sooner for less slipping?
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