oople

I would consider waiting till you can afford the V2.

BillyCaldwell

iTrader: (32)

As oople said get the v2. I have heavily petted beans car and it is a great chassis.

Tim@MRC

Personally I would wait and get the V2 also. But the other car is a steal.

beeanner

iTrader: (89)

I would personaly either wait and get the V2 Pro, or get the V2 sport and just upgrade it over time. Better parts availability and support for the new car, and its an improvement over the original SB v1.

gitigowland

ok appreciate that, does anyone know the time frame on the new PRO and the cost?? Does anyone on the west cost campaign one now?? havent seen any--
thanks again

Aaron P

iTrader: (3)

The word is, February on the PRO V2.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Agreed on waiting if you can on the V2 Pro or at least getting the V2. I worked on my V1 (had one of the first US V1 Sports) and with minimal setup out of the box my V2 felt better than my race tuned V1 Pro.

One of the main reasons to go with the V2 is gearing options, on the V1 it was an issue, though the new spurs from the V2 can help that.

This is not to say the V1 is a bad car, its just the V2 is better.

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

UPDATE!

MRC Academy SB Sport V2 1/10th 4WD Off-Road screw kits are now in stock!



MRC Academy SB Sport V2 1/10th 4WD Off-Road 126-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers, and set screws.

Kits will begin shipping tomorrow, Friday November 24th, 2006.

Thanks and best regards,

PerformanceRC

Tonys screws what does the screw pack weigh?

Pierre-Olivier

ALL OF SPAIR PIECE ARE OUT OF STOCK FROM MODEL RECTIFIER.

Not burkhead, low-arm, shock tower, rear arm, disk wheel!!, lower arm mount and diff gear for the v2!

Really bad!

P-0

Pierre-Olivier

That my v2 before upgrade and body

frankiecmgt

iTrader: (77)

OK...DOSE ANYONE KNOW OF A COMPANY THAT MAKES STEEL OUTDRIVES FOR THE V2. I HAVE GONE THROUGH 4 SETS AND 3 COMPLETE REAR DIFFS. CAIN ?????ANY IDEAS....THANKS

DanGriffin

what's happening to your diffs? are they melting together or are they just wearing out? If they are melting together you have them set too loose/the slipper is set too tight. Make sure the first thing that slips always is the slipper. Also, after you build the diff and run it a few times it will back out and will need retightened a little. By feel these diffs are a little different than like 2wd diffs I noticed. When they get loose they dont get super free but they slip badly on the track.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

The diffs do open up alittle easier than what I was used to , so I had to really pay attention to setting them up correctly after the first run.

Main thing I did to eliminate the initial chirping was to build the diffs at a tight setting (not locked). After about 2 high speed passes I went and reset the diffs as they loosened up that quickly. But after resetting them, all was fine.

Are you building them with the stock diff fluid or something else? You may want to try building them with AE diff fluid if you are using the stock fluid as its a much better grade and I was advised by Dave that this should help.

If you are snapping them, have you done any rear droop limiting or the oring trick for the rear axles?

I would like to see MRC / Academy to release an upgrade diff alloy sleeves for high power running. Would be a nice feature as well as possible alloy diffs.

From what I understand there are redesigned rear universals that help with the droop issue. Dave can you confim?

frankiecmgt

iTrader: (77)

I AM TOTALY MELTING THEM TOGETHER AND ROUNDING OUT THE OUTDRIVES. I HAVE TRYED DIFFERENT GREASE ( STOCK,AE,LOSI,NIFFTECH ) WHEN I BUILD THE DIFFS. I AM RUNNING A BRUSHLESS 5.5 WITH A ORION LI-PO IN IT. I NEVER HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE FRONT DIFF JUST THE REAR. ALSO I AN RUNNING THE UNIVERSAL KIT IN THE REAR AND NOT DOGBONES. I HAVE SET THE DROOP SO I HAVE PLENTY OF THE UNIVERSAL IN THE CUP. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS....FRANKIE