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Old 10-02-2006, 05:43 AM   #61
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I have a huge hole right in front of the motor. I'll cut one in the back as well, to let the warm air escape. If that is still not ok, i'll put a 40mm fan right in front of the motor.

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Old 10-02-2006, 09:13 AM   #62
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if you are running the heat sink, make sure you don't cover up any of the venting holes on the motor. Could be doing more harm than good. i know of others who have drilled the heatsink so it doesn't cause venting problems.

I also drilled holes front and rear and put fine mesh on the the body backing it to keep out bigger debri.

As for your vehicle wanting to track more one way versus the other, have you checked to see how the balance is on your vehicle with the packs on one side? This could be part of your issue and you may need to add weight to the other to balance it out.

Also, depending on how powerful your motor is you may be even twisting the chassis slightly. On the V1s you have, have you added the center battery post trick? This will effectively join the top deck in the center of the vehicle to the lower chassis. Really helped stiffen things up better than before.
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:11 AM   #63
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The part# for the oneway for the touring car is 98P 008. You can also use the stock front diff with the one way on the center shaft, part# 98VP T009. Hope this helps as far as this is concerned.

Mat3833: before you pushed the servo horn on did you make sure that your steering trim was centered and your steering endpoints were equal? With the stock servo saver there shouldnt be any reason why it would steer more one way then the other. Whatever you need to do on your radio to accomlish this please do so.

Scyan: Dans gearing choice is spot on for a 15 turn motor. Over revving your motor will cause heat issues as well. I would try at least a 21 tooth pinion, cut out the "scoop" holes in the body and make sure you have venting in the back of the body as well. When you take your pinion gear off the motor does the tranny spin very very free? If not then check your bevel gear shimming and your wheel hub bearings as well. Hope this helps.

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Old 10-02-2006, 06:22 PM   #64
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I'll definetly try the 21 tooth pinion. Even though our track is really short...

Here are pics of where I run at.. http://www.circuitjc.ca/piste.htm

The top section is the new layout. Still think the 21t pinion is fine for that ?

I'll cut holes in the body. I bought a second v2 to serve as a backup car. I really liked how it handled but now I want it to be slightly stiffer.

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:39 PM   #65
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I would still run at least 5 over on that track. It's kind of hard to judge exactly how big it is without having some frame of reference. Try 20 and see how it drives and try 21 and see which one you like better. You'll never learn anything unless you try stuff.

As for making it stiffer..I wonder if you could add a center post like Cain was talking about. We used to do this on the old car to take away flex. Or you could always order the carbon kit which is way stiffer than the FRP and includes a machined aluminum center brace.
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Old 10-03-2006, 05:42 AM   #66
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I'm thinking of putting a L shaped bracket running the length of the chassis right under the driveshaft. That should stiffen things up. It might actually extend on both sides on the front of the back... going in T... It should take the flex away. The graphite chassis options is quite expensive. I might do my own version when it comes to that. We already machine some rc option parts...

Thanks a bunch guys ! especially Dan ! Wow, a pro driver giving me advice, realy appreciate it !
I'll keep you updated on my successes!
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Old 10-03-2006, 09:39 AM   #67
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The method I would use usually for initial gearing based on the what the late Big Jim told me was to gear my vehicle to top out a few feet before the end of the longest straight.

For my purposes in offroad I would start my gearing there initially, within reason as far as track size goes and move down depending on how the vehicle felt around the track. Usually, on a reasonable sized 1/10 scale track I wouldn't make maybe more than 1 or 2 teeth changes down.

The main question I had on this with Big Jim was the low end torque issue as I was afraid I would lose this. The way he explained it to me (and I am paraphrasing big time here as it was a long time ago) was that the motors make there most torque starting from 0 RPM unlike a 2 stroke engine. So you could actually gain punch by using a larger pinion in certain situations if the motor will pull the gearing. That is at least how I understood it, could be wrong, but since using that advice, I haven't had any issue gearing most motors other than hi RPM / low torque stockers for 4wd offroad.


As for the flex you are experiencing, what kind are you trying to remove? side to side or front to back flex. If its front to back, a graphite top deck could do that for you and take away alittle of the side to side from what I have experienced, at least on the V1 prior to using the center post trick.

Ultimately, it probably woudl be best to just go with either the bracing you are thinking or the graphite chassis from Academy or aftermarket.
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:44 AM   #68
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MRC sells the center brace that DAN is referring too separately. Part# 98VPT013, and it retails for $25.00. This does work on the FRP chassis as well, and makes it quite a bit stiffer.

I still think that the 21 tooth pinion is good for your track if your using the 80 tooth spur gear. Dont run anymore then 27degrees of timing on your 15turn motor as well.

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Old 10-03-2006, 05:24 PM   #69
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Wow, I cannot believe all the good answers I am getting ! I'll try a 20t pinion and will cut a hole in the back of the body to help... Might even go ahead and install a 40mm fan right in front of it just as a help. Also, timing on the motor is right around 12 degrees.. so that should be just right.

Thx !
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Old 10-04-2006, 09:51 PM   #70
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This is Wow Factory SB V2 Carbon Version kit prototype

For more pic: http://rcforum.co.kr/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1592
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:42 AM   #71
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How thick is the carbon fiber on this? Looks pretty beefy.
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:37 AM   #72
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The other links takes you to a site that says it's 3mm....sweeet.

Is there a price set yet?
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:48 AM   #73
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I think that is not for oversea sell. That is made by a guy not by a company. I don't know he will setup a company or not.
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:51 AM   #74
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.
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Last edited by rcforum; 10-06-2006 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:52 AM   #75
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Heck, if there are no laws preventing him, he should setup an ebay shop and post this online for sale. I know there are people who would love to have this depending on its quality.
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