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Old 09-29-2006, 12:59 PM   #46
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Carbon Joe: The part#'s for the aluminum shocks for the V2 are:

RG T011 Pro Damper set Rear
VXB T004 Pro Damper set Front

MRC/ACADEMY has some of the smoothest shocks on the market.

Stormer Hobbies should have these in stock any day now!!!!

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Old 10-01-2006, 09:26 AM   #47
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I have to agree the shocks are quite smooth. Hopefully if they do a pro model a threaded version will be offered like on the STR4 Pro II. Great shocks non the less, alot easier to tune than AEs.
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Old 10-01-2006, 02:52 PM   #48
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I would go with the pro shocks. Never had a terrible malfunction on either car and the bladder system works really well. You don't have to bleed them to perfection like the ae ones either..
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:04 PM   #49
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im having a small problem with my SB pro and SB sport V1. they turn realy well to the left but barelt turn to the right. ive adjusted the servo arm and it seems to help but even with my EPA adjusted to 125 it doesnt turn equillt in both wats. if my servo arm is stripping what other kind can i use?

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Old 10-01-2006, 03:18 PM   #50
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Check to see where it is binding first before you go switching the servo arm. The AE ones will fit I believe. On the v1 the steering blocks should bottom on the castor blocks before the steering arms hit the diff case.
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:23 PM   #51
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theres no binding. i took the servo arm off and everything swings full lock both ways. it actually hits the castor blocks like you said. im not shure whats up

Matt

Last edited by mat3833; 10-01-2006 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:57 PM   #52
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I ran the v2 today at the track. MAN it's a LOT easier to drive and to place than the v1 ever was !! Even with the base chassis ! I've got b4 turnbuckles and shocks and that a great help (the shocks anyways).

I've got it setup for a really bumpy track.

Shocks in the most upright position, 30w in front and 25w in the back. Step pins all around. (Glued the front ones after removing 1/4 in width).

I'm thinking of putting a L shaped bracket running the length of the car under the driveshaft to help stiffness a bit. It wasnt an issue today but the car felt wobbly at times and I think its the very flexible chassis.

I also long for a oneway to break the rearend loose in tight turns. And I think of adding a 5v 40mm fan right in front of the motor since it ran pretty hot today... I run a 15x2 orion revolution v2 with a 17t pinion and it got to 240 some time today. My nomadio kept telling me overheat, overheat. But it was going sooo well. It eventually desoldered the neg side of the motor. Oh well, it was still pulling really hard anyways.

Whats the part number for the heavy duty diffs ?

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Old 10-01-2006, 05:19 PM   #53
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For a one-way, you can use the one from the STR-4 Pro II.
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:30 PM   #54
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The oneway from the STR4 Pro 2 works (use the plastic outdrive savers for this)
Heavy Duty Ball Diff Hub Set #VP-T001
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:33 PM   #55
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On your car I would suggest running a way larger pinion. I think like 6 or 7 over the wind seems pretty good for most tracks. Maybe try a 20 or 21 next time?
I can't find the part number for the new one way. Dave, can you help us out here?
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:55 PM   #56
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Dan, are you suggesting I may be undergeared ? Because I had plenty of top end... would the 2nd drivetrain cause the strain vs 2wd ?

Thx

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Old 10-01-2006, 05:57 PM   #57
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Also, for the oneway.. I'd love to use the ones from my v1 !! Geez.. I got 4 of those !

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Old 10-01-2006, 06:21 PM   #58
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Ya, you may be overgeared. It depends on the track and the conditions too. 4wds will almost always have a heat problem, not much you can do about it. The motor will experience way more stress because there is more rotating intertia in the drivetrain, friction, total mass of the car, and the greater amount of traction puts more abrupt forces on the motor. I would say if you can keep from nuking your motor while running for a whole heat and it still drives well, you are probably geared right.

Do you have the front one-way or the center? The one way that replaces the diff might work, I was thinking about that today.
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:29 PM   #59
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Do you cut out cooling holes on your shell front and back?
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:58 PM   #60
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I cut a huge portion out on the back part of the body motor side and that is it. I haven't had a big overheating problem. I run the included heat sink as well. If you run in warmer climates than Ohio in the Fall, you might need to hack into the body a little more. I would try putting holes in those scoops first if you have a problem.
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