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Old 08-12-2006, 10:31 PM   #1
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Default ***NEED advice on grooming an offroad track URGENT

***NEED advice on grooming an offroad track URGENT

We have a track in Canada called www.sidsraceway.com.

our surface is natural clay. It's rough. really rough.

it's now breaking up and I'm not too certain how to tackle the problem.

if you know alot about or have experience with grooming tools for hard rough track, we would really appreciate the advice.

thanks so much

Sean

please reply to both [email protected], [email protected]

thanks again
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:58 PM   #2
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Rake loose clay/dirt to fill in the holes and such. Water it and then pack it while its still wet.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:38 PM   #3
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what socal raceway does to keep the track pretty fresh is to water it...and i think they water it just about everyday...and when they water it, they pack it with shovels..etc. the track is usually always fresh since they change the layouts every 2 weeks.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:54 PM   #4
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if i'm not mistaken, the trick to keeping the moisture in the track/clay, is to put calcium cloride on the track's surface. spread it out and lightly water in. this is how most tracks create a blue groove kind of track.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:56 PM   #5
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Water it once everyday, and check daily for anything that shouldnt be on the track. Sweep it occasionally with a soft-bristled broom and try to keep it packed.
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelNut
Rake loose clay/dirt to fill in the holes and such. Water it and then pack it while its still wet.
This works with any off-road track that I've been to!!!

Plus water before each round of qual's and before the mains as needed.
(not each qual or each main)

Never liked dry hard tracks, (blue groove) to much like on-road!!!

I'm a ex-motocross racer!!!
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtracer1
if i'm not mistaken, the trick to keeping the moisture in the track/clay, is to put calcium cloride on the track's surface. spread it out and lightly water in. this is how most tracks create a blue groove kind of track.

Correct. And pack the hell out of it with a tractor.
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtracer1
if i'm not mistaken, the trick to keeping the moisture in the track/clay, is to put calcium cloride on the track's surface. spread it out and lightly water in. this is how most tracks create a blue groove kind of track.

A track with blue groove its so bad azz , nothing more fun or faster....

Clay !!! for fair even racing...
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Old 08-14-2006, 07:22 AM   #9
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sambonee: if you use the clacium chloride, don't just sprinkle it on the surface, till it into the ground a few inches if possible. the reason for this is that if you just sprinkle it on, it penetrates a few inches into the dirt but when it starts to break up, huge, deep chunks come up and create monster moon craters. it's a lot of work initially but the payoff is well worth it. the surface holds up longer with less maintanence and the traction is more consistent as well.
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:08 PM   #10
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Where do you get Calcium Chloride? How much? Liquid or pellets or flake?
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Old 08-14-2006, 10:53 PM   #11
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check pool supply stores for starters. it usually comes in 40 pound sacks and is cyrstaline/granular looking.
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:14 AM   #12
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Default tracks

it sounds as though your track has gotten away from you already, but it can be saved and will require alot of hand work without doing a total rebuild. fill in your holes and pack the best you can with slaming motion with your shovel. also water is the key especially on race night, if you have ten heats lets say per round you water every fourth race lightly throughtout the day. more if the sun is up and its hot. when you do your next track build mix in bags of type2 lime comes in 50lbs bags at any home depot type store. mix in at least 30 bags with all the excess dirt when knock down all the jumaps and grade your track flat and pack that in with a steel wheel roller then mix up all your extra dirt and the lime with lots of water wnd then start building all your jumps and such and compact them as your building them. most peopl when they build their jumps and such they dont compact as they build and then they break down even faster with people landing short and such. once its built this way water alot for the next two dAys to help the surface bind together. the first few race days it with crumb up a bit at that point keep the loose debris swept off and keep it watered this will help to last for as long as you want to run that layout. and while building a blue groove from the methods offered on here will work this is much better for both blue groove and wet track running. plus wet track running is cheaper for your racers on ahving to buy tires so much to run blue groove. and after awhile you can drive them away by nickle and diming them to death with tires. the first build done properly in this way plan for two days or a total of 15 hours for a track size of say 110' by 60'. once your dirt is preped this way you wont have to add lime again and future builds will take 10 to 12 hours. but once a year and more lime again.
earth and dirt work in my job for 18 yrs and track builder for 5 years as thats how long i have been racing.

good luck
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Old 08-23-2006, 09:42 PM   #13
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sry forgot a couple steps, im so used to doing it that i forget sometimes. once you knock down all your jumps and such and grade everything flat, use the rippers on the tractor, im assuming your using a gannon type tractor, and rip the whole track and put 20 bags of lime in it water it alot and the rip 90 degrees from the diraction you went first time and wtaer it again then rip one more time then grade it flat and compact the whole area. then grade it one more time flat, continue watering along the way. as your doing all taht you can also be mixing the 30 bags wiht the pile you made from all the jumps. then as you start building your jumps keep that area a little damp as you do so the jumps will bind with the hard pack flat surface you have made. once finish water the whole track lightly 3 to 4 times back to back. continue that as much as you can for the next two days allowing the water to soak in unti track is dry before next water cycle. watering in light passes will keep from washing away all your top dirt thus exposing all the rocks that may be in your soil. plus watering lightly will allow water to penitrate the surface instead of puddling. this will help in final compaction. again sorry for leaving this out. its just second nature to me and when trying to relay it this way i just forgot.

i hope this helps if you need anything else i can give you more contact info and talk you through it.
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:37 AM   #14
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ok, What does the lime do compared to the Calcium?
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:58 AM   #15
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LIME AND SOIL MODIFICATION: Lime is an excellent choice for short-term modification of soil properties. Lime can modify almost all fine-grained soils, but the most dramatic improvement occurs in clay soils of moderate to high plasticity. Modification occurs because calcium cations supplied by the hydrated lime replace the cations normally present on the surface of the clay mineral, promoted by the high pH environment of the lime-water system. Thus, the clay surface mineralogy is altered, producing the following benefits:

* Plasticity reduction
* Reduction in moisture-holding capacity (drying)
* Swell reduction
* Improved stability
* The ability to construct a solid working platform
I looked this up and changed my answer.
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