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Old 08-01-2006, 10:57 PM   #1
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Vantage motor problams

Hi
I bought a vantage 10x2 Peak motor and every run about 4 minutes in while racing the wires are unsoldering themselves and even the brushe's one time.
I heard there was an up dated from Orion coming if it's not already out on the market??? anyone have a little mod for this motor . What I'm gonna do is decrease the timing a bit and go up a few teeth on my pinion .I was running it in my XX-4 worlds with the purple 84 tooth spur and a 17 tooth pinion .
hope someone can help me.
P.S. can't win if you can't finish .
Thanks in advance
Matt
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:31 AM   #2
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Hi Matt

I have a Fantom V2 10x2 in my XX4 and its running like crazy.
The motor setup is medium brush springs, Orion Sprint brushes and 4-6mm timing. I allso have the 84 spur and a 19 tooth pinion.
With this setup i have now plowed 15 packs befor thruing and I didnt have to take much on it either.

Hope this helps you in some way.

/Fredde
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdog
Hi
I bought a vantage 10x2 Peak motor and every run about 4 minutes in while racing the wires are unsoldering themselves and even the brushe's one time.
I heard there was an up dated from Orion coming if it's not already out on the market??? anyone have a little mod for this motor . What I'm gonna do is decrease the timing a bit and go up a few teeth on my pinion .I was running it in my XX-4 worlds with the purple 84 tooth spur and a 17 tooth pinion .
hope someone can help me.
P.S. can't win if you can't finish .
Thanks in advance
Matt
Just decrease the timing. Don't change the pinion.

The wires will come unsoldered when the motor gets too hot, of when the solder joints are poor. Make sure your joints are perfect every time. Once they come unsoldered, just soldering them backon will cause the same thing to happen again. Cut the ends off your esc wires and start fresh using 60/40 solder. And always use some new solder when resoldering the wires after changing the motor.

If your drivetrain is bound or you are using a lot of brakes (most people use way to much brake), the same problem will occur.
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:11 AM   #4
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Rick, I've never seen that problem off-road. But we ran an on-road race a few months ago and a couple of the guys were having problems with it. The motor cans weren't getting that hot, just right at the joints. Especially on Cristian's car, they just get worked so hard with him driving. It was a group of experienced drivers and we couldn't get it solved. At the time we were talking about how hard it is to get a good joint on a round surface. Any thoughts to maybe adding a tab to solder onto?
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Old 08-03-2006, 02:04 PM   #5
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Guys don't forget that there is other solder that has a higher melting point for just this reason. It does cost a little more and you have to have a good iron to use it but that's what the TC guys do to fight the melting.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:44 AM   #6
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Hi
What solder would that be , The 60/40 stuff or something higher ???
thanks
Matt
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdog
Hi
What solder would that be , The 60/40 stuff or something higher ???
thanks
Matt
With turning down the timing and using 60/40, you should be good to go. I would also take the extra step and gently file the contact on the motor prior to soldering the new leads to ensure that you are getting a good contact surface to solder to as well. I used the V2 motors quite a bit in on-road and had pretty good luck with motor leads not coming off. Also make sure you are using a good solding stick - pick-up the 80 watt one from Canadian tire (about $40). You'll be able to get good heat into the solder joint quick without overheating the rest of the motor.
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:15 PM   #8
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Crazy motor

Hi
I backed the timing off ,cut fresh leads and used some silver solder and this thing is still knocking the esc wires off .I tried sending Orion /Peak this issue and they never got back to me. I either have one hell of a motor here thats possesed for speed or I really don't know.I've tried all the basic things you can do .Anyone have anymore suggestions???
Matt
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Old 08-14-2006, 12:23 AM   #9
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Is the rest of the motor getting really hot? Or just the copper brush tubes?
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:38 PM   #10
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Hay

I'm pretty sure it's the whole motor ,I've never checked the
temp but it's way hot still after decressing the timing almost to the middle were the red and white degree points meet.it was to the left on the 2nd last red degree point from the factory.
theres has to be someway to tame this heated monster.
Thanks
Matt
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:46 PM   #11
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Matt,

I had this problem with one of my 8-turn onroad motors.... make sure you clean the "old" solder off as well as you can to make sure you get a good contact with the new solder. Also, as soon as I started soldering with my 80 watt gun, it appeared that I got better heat to the joint, making for a stronger solder. I don't know what to tell you - I see guys running 8 singles / 7 single V2 motor's without any problems. What pinion/spur are you running in the XX4?

Martin
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